Noblemercedes warning: Change Turbo Inlet Seal every time disturbed

TooMuchHair

Active member
Nice video Bobnoxious, thanks!
But that sure looked like a new "radial" style seal that I thought would be black not orange. Can anybody comment and clear this up. If MB just showed this in orange, that seems like it will add to the confusion.
 
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Deleted member 50714

Guest
Nice video Bobnoxious, thanks!
But that sure looked like a new "radial" style seal that I thought would be black not orange. Can anybody comment and clear this up. If MB just showed this in orange, that seems like it will add to the confusion.
I do not know the date of video. As a result, the seal may have been superceded from orange to black.:idunno: I am kinda partial to the color orange. :smirk: Although, the black seal may be designed better
 
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CJPJ

2008 3500 170 EXTD 3.0 V6 OM642.993 4.182
Bob thanks for that video, it explained the Nobemercedes idiot proofing; warning to change turbo inlet seal every time. I'm still using the original and couldn't understand why replace it. 2008 the orange silicone seal is impervious to the turbo heat but would easily tear with that maneuver.
 

whambulance

New member
That seems like a dear price for a bit of plastic hose. :bash:

Was what I assume is a hardened area of the failure localized to the one end? Any hint as to what caused the material failure? Heat? Oil leak, solvents on the outside? Just age/miles?

vic

Yep that did hurt a bit. They felt sorry for me, so they gave me "trade price", I wonder what the standard retail would be!!??

It is 10 years old... No other damage to the pipe, maybe it just got brittle? Plenty of oil from the crankcase vent, and the seal definitely looked worn compared to the new (orange) one I was given. I have a feeling that the workshop may have over tightened it when I was getting the dodgy injector sorted... My thinking is if the seal was worn, the correct ftlb of torque would no longer apply due to decreased radius of the seal, leading to the collapse of the plastic.... It's a strange tear though, definitely looks directional, like someone yoinked on it while it was fastened.

Fuel economy, response and power are considerably improved now that its not sucking air directly from the atmosphere ha!
 

Gpaw68

2015 144 4cyl high roof
So does any of this apply to the 4cyl engine? Just read this entire post and did not see any mention of it. I may have missed it though.
 
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Deleted member 50714

Guest
I would say it could be a potential failure point to be aware. Especially, while removing the air filter box. Pay strict attention to the hose clamp torque and use only genuine Mercedes Benz clamps and air filters. The devil is in the details with these Mercedes machines.
 

pfflyer

Well-known member
The last service on my 2016 3500 I noticed there were not parts listed on the invoice break down for these parts after a fuel filter change. Other fuel filter changes they were listed. Service advisor checked with the tech and said that the notice has been changed to "inspect and change if necessary". I would be interested to find out if this is true or not.
 
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Deleted member 50714

Guest
The last service on my 2016 3500 I noticed there were not parts listed on the invoice break down for these parts after a fuel filter change. Other fuel filter changes they were listed. Service advisor checked with the tech and said that the notice has been changed to "inspect and change if necessary". I would be interested to find out if this is true or not.
It very well could've been amended. I would humbly request, in the interest of "good faith" customer service excellence, and a demonstration of their integrity, and commitment to customer satisfaction, provide a print-out of said bulletin.
 

mikeme

2015 LTV IB: 2015 3500 V6
I had an interesting phone discussion yesterday with a person after some facebook exchange.

he had the original factory-installed turbo inlet seal, and when he removed the turbo inlet tube to allow access for the first fuel filter change on his 2015 3500 V6 sprinter, the seal stuck to the turbo inlet.


this makes at least three times (as reported here) these have stuck to the turbo inlet.
 

Ravenhill

New member
I have a 2016 3500 V6. When I did the first fuel filter change at around 18,000 miles on the vehicle, I had been educated by you guys about the turbo inlet seal and proper air filter box handling, and had a replacement turbo seal on hand. However, when I tried to remove the old seal, it appeared to be well affixed as if it was glued in place. It looked like I would have to do some prying with sharp objects to get it out. It was not damaged or brittle or cracked, so I left it in place. It was still pliable on the edges, so it didn't feel like it had been cooked into place. Now it's time to change the fuel filter again. Could Mercedes be gluing the part in place to help keep it from getting sucked into the turbo? Has anybody had difficulty removing the old turbo seal? Do I need to up my vitamin intake?
 

220629

Well-known member
... Could Mercedes be gluing the part in place to help keep it from getting sucked into the turbo? Has anybody had difficulty removing the old turbo seal? Do I need to up my vitamin intake?
The "glued into place" comment has come up a few times lately. The method may have changed. (Which makes sense to me.)

... However, when I tried to remove the old seal, it appeared to be well affixed as if it was glued in place. It looked like I would have to do some prying with sharp objects to get it out. It was not damaged or brittle or cracked, so I left it in place. It was still pliable on the edges, so it didn't feel like it had been cooked into place. ...
It sounds like you have the capability to assess the condition(s). In your situation, assuming all seems as before, I would likely do what you did the first go around. I have no data.
Listen to Mikeme. :thumbup:

I doubt you need vitamins, but my memory is that Wheaties cereal may help you a bit.
Added:
Apparently you may need the Wheaties.
:cheers: vic
 
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mikeme

2015 LTV IB: 2015 3500 V6
I have a 2016 3500 V6. When I did the first fuel filter change at around 18,000 miles on the vehicle, I had been educated by you guys about the turbo inlet seal and proper air filter box handling, and had a replacement turbo seal on hand. However, when I tried to remove the old seal, it appeared to be well affixed as if it was glued in place. It looked like I would have to do some prying with sharp objects to get it out. It was not damaged or brittle or cracked, so I left it in place. It was still pliable on the edges, so it didn't feel like it had been cooked into place. Now it's time to change the fuel filter again. Could Mercedes be gluing the part in place to help keep it from getting sucked into the turbo? Has anybody had difficulty removing the old turbo seal? Do I need to up my vitamin intake?
consider yourself lucky

is your seal stuck to the turbo, or inside the tube?

mine was well-stuck to the turbo, and I left it in, cost me $5k almost 9,000 miles later.


several other folks have had luck with a little heat applied to the seal.

and my seal left for the turbo on a very hot day, after it had completed a DPF regen and sat for a few minutes (like 15 or 20)
 

Ravenhill

New member
Thanks guys.

Mikeme, it was stuck in the tube, not on the turbo. I'll report back when I take it apart again. I saw your posts about your issues - ugh. Sorry to hear that. Thanks for telling me about applying heat to the seal. I had not seen that nor did I think of that.

Aqua / Vic, thank you too. Wheaties it is.:D:
 

HappyFamilyVan

Captain Ahab
Came back to this thread and re-read after I noticed cracks in my inlet hose during an oil change. As you can see by the close up shot I have an orange seal. Note: about 1 year ago I had some work done and the tech told me that they replaced the seal. So I was a bit surprised to see the Orange as my understanding was that Black was the new Orange and the newer seal was black. So I ordered a new inlet hose and seal from MB and decided to do myself. This way I knew I would have the correct seal.

20190102_112203.jpg

20190102_112151.jpg

To my surprise, an orange seal was already installed in the inlet hose. See pic 3. So now I have two seals, one that came in the hose and one that I ordered separately. Both orange. I have read on this site how you should install the seal in the inlet hose first before installing on the turbo, so I though cool, MB was saving me a step. But I still had an orange seal, but I was under the impression that the newer seals were black. I was confused.

20190102_142744.jpg


So I decided to go talk with the tech. When I started to ask my questions, a big smile came across his face and he chuckled. He shared with me the Orange/Black dilemma. Yes there was a newer seal design and yes it was black and yes you installed into the inlet hose first. However, there was a catch. ONLY and ONLY if your sprinter was born with a black seal would you use the new seal. There were multiple service notices that came out on this issue and they were contradictory. When the original service notice came out, the tech said they trashed all the orange seals and only used the black new ones. Then another service notice came out and said only use the orange ones, so the tech said they trashed all the black seals. Then another service notice came out and said, it depends on the age of the Sprinter (NCV3) as to which seal to use. The tech told me these service notices all came in about a 3 month period.

So the final result on what/how to change:

If your Sprinter was born with orange seal (earlier models, my is an '08) you use orange. When you order an inlet hose, the seal will come installed in the inlet hose only to show you the direction of the fit. These are directional seals.

Step 1 Note the direction of the seal, then remove the seal from the inlet hose.
Step 2 Place the seal on the turbo in the correct direction.
Step 3 Attach the breather (wired sensor thing near the end of the hose. He said it sometime takes a bit of twisting to connect hence the reason to install BEFORE connecting inlet hose over the turbo which has the seal already on it.
Step 4 Line up the arrow on the inlet hose to the one on the turbo and slide inlet hose over the seal which is already on the turbo.
Step 5 Tighten clamp

If your Sprinter was born with black, then
Step 1 Then you should install seal in the inlet hose first.
Then follow Steps 3-5 above.

The reason for the different colored seals? Two different inlet hose designs. Very slight difference but there is a difference. The tech also recommended replacing the inlet hose every 5 years or so as the plastic gets brittle and can crack. As you saw in my pics above. New hose only costs about $150. Pretty cheap insurance considering the cost of a turbo. Also replace seal, if it needs it or not every 2-3 years. At under $25 really cheap insurance.

Just because the inlet hose is not disturbed, by replacing every 2-3 years you have the opportunity to inspect turbo and ensure seal is in good shape. By removing the inlet hose, it also makes it easier to pull the engine cover on the left side and inspect the pistons for leaks (so called black death). Catching early makes rectifying leaking pistons less of a mess.

Sorry for the long post, but thought I would share what I found out.

Happy Sprintering,
HappyFamilyVan
 
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Deleted member 50714

Guest
Please note: Some model years, the clean air tube must be replaced to match the profile of the new seal. Refer to EPC for details.
 

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I was work with that seals a hundreds times and it should be replace every time??
Of course I pay attention to condition when work on it. But replace it every time it stupid idea.
It’s Benz style... every time every where New bolts, nuts, connectors... I know couple important things like injectors bolts and washers and completely agree with this, but it’s not about simple rubber gasket on inlet duct even orange color... only one thing have sense there it’s correct tightening torque moment.
 
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levedr

Member
View attachment 105800



https://sprinter-source.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109958&stc=1&d=1553538512

Step 4 Line up the arrow on the inlet hose to the one on the turbo and slide inlet hose over the seal which is already on the turbo.
Which arrow on the turbo? The metal pointer tab pointing straight down or the embossed "arrowhead' on the metal tube?

Looking at the second picture here would the trained eye say that the turbo inlet seal was changed out 20 miles/ three hours ago?

Thank you
 
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beez

Member
Nice video Bobnoxious, thanks!
But that sure looked like a new "radial" style seal that I thought would be black not orange. Can anybody comment and clear this up. If MB just showed this in orange, that seems like it will add to the confusion.
Orange is the new black? :tongue:
I'll see myself out.
 

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