real wheel simulator

https://youtu.be/RYjYY-aZYok

anyone try these?

looks like a mounting system that might actually work to keep them on the wheels.

when I had to stop by a MB dealer to get a wheel that does not leak, the tech said some covers are actually mounted with screws to the wheel.

since one of the fronts left to bounce around the freeway someplace near Kansas City, and two if the remaining covers seem loose (moving around but now held with tie-wraps) I would like to get something that stays put.

I expect the wife would prefer something shiny to the scratched, painted steel wheels.

Hi
On my 2015 UTB I machine spacers that screw on the end of two of wheel nuts, the wheel
studs are quite longer than the wheel nuts.

At the other end of those spacers I drill a hole and thread for 1/4 nc bolt to fit there.

For the spacers I use 1 1/16 hexagon steel so I use the same box that I use for my water tank.

After installing the two spacers I put the rear simulator (outer part only) . I have drill two holes

in the simulator. I use two stainless screws to hold that part and I put the certer part of the

simulator with the same screws like it was originally.

The long studs are for alining the simulator with the holes in the spacers and are replaced with 1/4 stainless screws

P.S. the missing wheel nut was only while taking picture

Jack

mikeme said:

https://youtu.be/RYjYY-aZYok

anyone try these?

looks like a mounting system that might actually work to keep them on the wheels.

when I had to stop by a MB dealer to get a wheel that does not leak, the tech said some covers are actually mounted with screws to the wheel.

since one of the fronts left to bounce around the freeway someplace near Kansas City, and two if the remaining covers seem loose (moving around but now held with tie-wraps) I would like to get something that stays put.

I expect the wife would prefer something shiny to the scratched, painted steel wheels.

Click to expand...

I had the same wheel covers in Aluminium on my 2014. The rear wheel covers are still on the RV. The fronts use the "clamping" approach, and I lost the covers after about a year of use. I would not buy this design for the front wheels; the rear's work fine.

Stainless steel zip ties work really well for us....

For the last 4 years I have not used the LTV wheel simulators with some sacrifice in Unity appearance. Always had difficulty installing the simulators with the friction fit. Thanks to Mikeme a bolt-on/clamp-on s.s. simulator set from RearWheels was listed with an option of valve stem extensions for the dual rear wheels.

The s.s. simulators are manufactured and sold by RealWheels in Gurnee, IL and also sold by HH Auto wheel & Trim in MN.

The simulators kit was well packaged, included all the required bolts, washers, etc., and was fairly easy to install considering this was the first time in 5 years that I actually used the M-B jack and removed the wheels. The attached photos show the installation.

Hoping to travel and evaluate the simulator set soon.

The set I ordered arrived. have not had the chance to install yet, but they look good.

Guess we need to carry a wrench for those axle cap nuts.

BUSYBOB said:

For the last 4 years I have not used the LTV wheel simulators with some sacrifice in Unity appearance. Always had difficulty installing the simulators with the friction fit. Thanks to Mikeme a bolt-on/clamp-on s.s. simulator set from RearWheels was listed with an option of valve stem extensions for the dual rear wheels.

The s.s. simulators are manufactured and sold by RealWheels in Gurnee, IL and also sold by HH Auto wheel & Trim in MN.

The simulators kit was well packaged, included all the required bolts, washers, etc., and was fairly easy to install considering this was the first time in 5 years that I actually used the M-B jack and removed the wheels. The attached photos show the installation.

Hoping to travel and evaluate the simulator set soon.

Click to expand...

I hope those valve extensions work for you, when I tried them with my OEM rubber stems it wasn't long before I had a flat from the failed rubber stem. I would also be concerned about the braided extension that is in contact with the steel wheel hole edge, it could get cut into there. It's hard to foresee the potential failure mechanisms that get introduced by centrifugal force. Canadian Traveller should make his design kit available, it's very simple and appears effective for keeping the Simulators in place.

Extensions mounted to the oem wheel simulators will rotate with the wheel simulators.

As these age, (and are removed/re-mounted) the mounting becomes less solid, and the covers rotate within the wheel. This, with improper routing of the extensions, it seems to me, lead to stress of rubber parts of the valves, and stress to the hoses.

the RWC mount keeps the extension end points solid in reference to each other.

Any ideas on the size and torque of the axle cover mounting nuts? (which the rear RWC mount uses)

The instruction sheets provided by RWC listed 18.5 ft-lbs as the torque for the axle nuts. I used an electric wrench with #16 or 5/8" sockets so no problem in removing/re-installing. (The 2007 Sprinter Service Manual has 53 ft-lbs for the Axle shaft Hub Nut).

The length of the braided air valve extensions for the rear wheels seemed to me to be a bit too long but that is what they provided. I think they could have been a couple of inches shorter. If I have problems with abrasion on the extensions, RWC does make customized lengths that can be ordered. I also confirmed that if any screws, bolts, washers or clamping device are lost or damaged, they can be ordered to maintain the integrity and appearance.

I got them before a 13,500 mile trip last summer. Very happy with them.

Stainless steel zip ties work great for us too. Cheap and effective and you can hardly see them.

Thought I would update this and share my experience with the RWC wheel simulators.

Sandy was right on about extensions being a bad idea. (he said two flat rear inner tires later) Even the RWC extensions ended up loosening the valves in the wheel. I had similar advice from a few folks, but resisted until experience bit me on a trip. (two separate times a couple days apart)

The rear mounts (mounting brackets) for the RWC wheels require removal of the axle cover. (this has to happen to remove the wheels once the brackets are installed)

Torque spec for the M10 nuts is 48 ft-lb (65NM)

When I purchased these, the front wheels were held on with three clips that hook into three of the wheel holes. Over time i found that the wheel simulators (covers) would rotate some, putting the front wheel valve stems at risk if they were long enough to go through the covers.

RWC now uses a mounting bracket for the front covers which is similar to the rear bracket, Once this one is mounted, the wheels can be removed with the bracket in place.

Torque for the wheel carrier bolts (which are removed to mount the front bracket) M14 is 125 ft-lb (170 NM)

I have a new set of covers and brackets for the fronts on order. (for my next 100,000 miles....)