Torque Converter Locking up

JonnyGnwc

New member
Just got code 2783, torque converter in tranny is locking up.

Dealership quoted me $2800...gonna take it to my mechanic instead...these guys hosed me $417 for a fuel filter and $570 for a temp sensor related to the turbo/dpf. no more dealership.

Anyone have knowledge of the torque converter? Dealership told me it could manifest itself in two years or two days, they can't be sure.

2013 2500
 

MikMal

Member
No personal experience but I remember reading about some issues where someone replaced theirs with a re-manufactured one. I believe it was in this posting:
2008 Transmission Shudder
I've been reading up on transmission problems since I'm starting to get some shuddering myself (2008 2500 w/ 130K miles). The mechanic said it's not throwing any codes yet but he can tell from the way it feels that the transmission is going bad and needs to be replaced. Told me the same thing you heard; it may last a week or several years. I have to say that I lost any confidence I had in that dealership.
 
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lindenengineering

Well-known member
OK to clear the air.
If the transmission won't pass a stall test it usually means it needs a "new" torque converter .

If on the other hand it passed a stall test but you have a buzz or shudder under way and on power through the higher gears it usually means the torque converter internal lock up is not engaging & dis-enagaging correctly.

The first remedy is to replace the torque converter plus a major trans service is recommended.

The second is a major trans service replacing the lock up clutch solenoid & circuit board etc . Then in both repair options I bung in a can of BG ATF plus additive for good measure.
Works well every time!
Dennis
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
No personal experience but I remember reading about some issues where someone replaced theirs with a re-manufactured one. I believe it was in this posting:
2008 Transmission Shudder
I've been reading up on transmission problems since I'm starting to get some shuddering myself (2008 2500 w/ 130K miles). The mechanic said it's not throwing any codes yet but he can tell from the way it feels that the transmission is going bad and needs to be replaced. Told me the same thing you heard; it may last a week or several years. I have to say that I lost any confidence I had in that dealership.
Curious??
Why have you lost confidence with the dealer you dealt with?
Dennis
 

MikMal

Member
Curious??
Why have you lost confidence with the dealer you dealt with?
Dennis
Namely because I've read through numerous forums where people had the similar symptoms as mine but not all were rectified by replacing the entire transmission. When I first discussed the issue with the shop, their reply was that it could be something as simple as the wrong fluid to needing a major overhaul. But once it was there, I simply got the "Oh, the mechanic can just tell by the feel", which kind of rubbed me the wrong way. They did at least check for any stored codes, which it had none, but they wouldn't even do a routine service for me at my request. Had they given me some options such as "Let's start with a complete trans service so we know what we're starting with" or even a "a new transmission will run you $$$, while a re-manufactured (rebuilt) will run $$$",, I would have felt better. Seems all they want to do is replace the entire transmission at a tune of over $6,000.
Maybe it's me, but I would hope that a mechanic would at least want to get a look inside to verify things.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
OK Please understand that dealers --any dealers do not repair major units unless instructed to under some form of warranty agreement by the factory.

That minimizes the liability of the shop towards the customer and the repair.
The mantra then is simply to replace the transmission and shot gun it which means $$$$ to the customer! Since the new unit is covered by a factory warranty that reduces the shop liability to almost nil.
It does again mean big dollar tickets for the customer.
Because of that customer expectations are not met often in some cases!
There are some tolerances like your transmission where simply doing a basic yet invasive service might resolve the complaint of drive-ability.

So you might ask why is that an unwritten policy towards the customer with few exceptions

Well it boils down in the end to you the litigious customer.
Its called small claims courts and making frivolous laws suits against repair shops.
All dealers and Pro Shops like mine carry expensive liability insurance to cover potential claims but the insurance companies limit in most cases what you can repair and how the repair is undertaken.
For example am not suppose to fix class 8 big rigs! I am not covered for that by the premium
paid.
So I have to stand the risk however minimal!

Now dealers have CSI ratings and dealer incentives so they do not want to risk a litany of complaints by customers and not to mention whining yelpie boys!!
Really behind the curtain you might be surprised just how much work is discounted or removed in the USA by dealers just to garner customer goodwill at dealerships across the country !
In part this explains the high charge out rates! It just the cost of doing business.
Of course need I mention again small claims courts and frivolous laws suits.
Basically a kangaroo court setting where the motor trade in general is not favored by the man in black robe! So repair shops tend to select what they do to minimize liabilities. .
I hope that gives you an insight into the trade which is not always appreciated or misunderstood at the customer end.
Cheers Dennis
 

4wheeldog

2018 144" Tall Revel
I have a transmission tale from 20 years ago.
I had a Honda Accord with about 140k miles. The torque convertor began being intermittent in whether it locked up or not.
Eventually, it just didn't lock up, and the torque convertor just remained in play full time.
I tried to take it to Honda for a diagnosis. The service writer, after I told him the symptoms, simply stated "You need a new transmission. $2500."
This was without even looking at, and certainly without test driving the vehicle.
So......I went to a well recommended transmission shop. The tech drove the car, and told me that there was nothing discernable wrong with it, near as he could tell.
The problem with my car became a subject of conversation with the guys I worked with at a coffee break. I mentioned that before the problem, as designed, the torque convertor did not lock up until the engine was fully warmed up. One of the guys said, "You know, the temperature gauge in new cars doesn't reflect the actual engine temperature anymore. It just gets to operating range, and indicates the same temperature, even if it isn't actually fully warmed up."
The light in my head came on, I bought a thermostat, and installed it that night. Viola!
The design of that thermostat included a rubber seal for the moving plate to seal on. It had deteriorated, and the thermostat was leaking by a small amount.....Enough so that the engine was staying a few degrees lower than design.
Ever since, whenever I service the cooling system on any vehicle I own, I replace the thermostat with an OE one.
And........I never just replace major components without fully understanding why they are defective.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Good post:thumbup:
It emphasizes the need to understand what going on and not just jump to a conclusion without full interrogation of the problem .,
I have a similar story of Pontiac Grand Prix in the shop and with harsh shifting with no overdrive lock up activation.
Condemned by a dealer as needing a new transmission the REAL problem was the transmission temp sensor showing minus 30 degrees. Fix was a $17 sensor at the time plus 30 minutes labor.
Dennis
 

irvingj

2015 RT SS Agile (3.0L)
"...never just replace major components without fully understanding why they are defective..." Absolutely great advice.

Here's my tranny tale from yesteryear, regarding my wife's 1987 Colt Vista 4WD mini-mini-van (? -- LOVED that car!).

Initially it would --only sometimes-- pop out of 5th gear; then it got worse, and finally wouldn't go into 5th at all. Shift knob in the right position, but tranny stayed in 4th. Was told "New transmission. Those trannies are junk. $2500 (or thereabouts)."

Looked in my recently-purchased factory service manual (NOT a Chilton's). Found that 5th and reverse were actually operated by large vacuum actuators; the spring-loaded gate between 3-4 and 5-R rotated a switch which energized a solenoid to allow vacuum to go to the appropriate actuator. Weird, but it worked.... until the wire on the switch that was constantly flexed broke -- inside the insulation. Only found it by tugging on the wire. Soldered in a new section, with stress relief, and everything was fine.

Total time (most of which was spent learning how the system worked) about 1 hour, cost about 15 cents for a piece of wire & shrink tubing.

Still upset about the "professional advice" I got. (And that was 38 years ago!!)
 
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4wheeldog

2018 144" Tall Revel
"...never just replace major components without fully understanding why they are defective..." Absolutely great advice.

Here's my tranny tale from yesteryear, regarding my wife's 1987 Colt Vista 4WD mini-mini-van (? -- LOVED that car!).

Initially it would --only sometimes-- pop out of 5th gear; then it got worse, and finally wouldn't go into 5th at all. Shift knob in the right position, but tranny stayed in 4th. Was told "New transmission. Those trannies are junk. $2500 (or thereabouts)."

Looked in my recently-purchased factory service manual (NOT a Chilton's). Found that 5th and reverse were actually operated by large vacuum actuators; the spring-loaded gate between 3-4 and 5-R rotated a switch which energized a solenoid to allow vacuum to go to the appropriate actuator. Weird, but it worked.... until the wire on the switch that was constantly flexed broke -- inside the insulation. Only found it by tugging on the wire. Soldered in a new section, with stress relief, and everything was fine.

Total time (most of which was spent learning how the system worked) about 1 hour, cost about 15 cents for a piece of wire & shrink tubing.

Still upset about the "professional advice" I got. (And that was 38 years ago!!)
I supervised plant mechanics after years of being one. The good ones spent time analyzing the problem and getting an idea where to look before taking anything apart.
The inferior ones took stuff apart first, in a vain attempt to identify the faulty part visually. Those are the ones that “Fixed” several things before the actual problem was identified.
 

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