what battery brand do you use? Dose it matter?

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by GlennR

I'd assume the golf cart chargers are top notch too

No industrial but designed for guaranteed overnight.

Best chargers for bigger banks are those designed for deep cycling banks in marine use, definitely not the automotive stuff.

I like Sterling ProCharge Ultra and ProMariner Pronautic P.

FLA you can get away with amps output of .15 - .2C (20A per 100AH), but ideally over double that needed for AGM longevity, Lifeline specs .4C minimum I believe.

AGM needs greater care not to overcharge, FLA just keep adding water NP.

Plus a cheap hydrometer gives accurate SoC info.

[john61ct]

No lead bank gets to 100% Full in under 6-8 hours no matter how big the charger, and they need to get back to that at least a few times a week for longevity.

For those actually sensitive to FLA fumes, not hard to box the bank and vent to outside, just as you're meant to do with the propane locker.

Only real justification paying the extra for AGM is the install space is hard to reach or requires lying them down.

Or with very high amp output rates like winches. . .

[john61ct]

Extended time off grid requires conservation. I prefer to avoid inverters as much as possible, adapt to 12V native as much as possible for electronics, propane for heat production.

So much cheaper than trying to keep up with inefficient usage of devices designed for mains power.

[Aqua Puttana]

Originally Posted by HarryN

...

I don't actually believe in the concept of a "casual user", only that people tend to purchase what they can afford and will fit in their conversion van. Once the veil of energy rationing starts to come off, and the concept that "there really is working electricity in my van" really sinks in, most people will want to operate every single home appliance that they own in their van.

The allure of a 120 vac outlet is just too high to ignore.

...

Good point.

I hear that. The same has happened with boats. At one time a 15 amp receptacle was considered a luxury for a sailboat moored on a wall. Now 30 amp and even higher amp receptacles are expected. People want to "get away from it all" with boats and RV's, but only if they can bring it all with them.

vic

[sethlp]

Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana

Not brand related, but maybe worth discussion here.

What are your concerns? Hydrogen gas, needed maintenance?

In my limited experience flooded batteries are not only cheaper initially, but for a more casual user the electrical support systems (charge controllers) are also less expensive. With proper maintenance flooded batteries have good service life, and are maybe a bit more forgiving for a casual user.

vic

I suppose off gassing. I can handle maintenance.

The marine blog is above my education. Lots of vocabulary I don't understand yet but trying.

[john61ct]

First google keywords or "phrases in quotes".

If still not grokking, feel free to post specific Qs.

After a while it all starts sinking in.

My DC Electrics 101 thread on vandwellers: http://www.cheaprvliving.com/forums/....php?tid=28197

[sethlp]

Originally Posted by HarryN

I don't actually believe in the concept of a "casual user", only that people tend to purchase what they can afford and will fit in their conversion van. Once the veil of energy rationing starts to come off, and the concept that "there really is working electricity in my van" really sinks in, most people will want to operate every single home appliance that they own in their van.

I'm going to try and be a economic user. We've been tent camping quite a bit and I feel we have worked on our "glamping" tendencies. We did have the hair drier talk.
The van is going to be an adventure van/tour bus. I guess one in the same.

Thanks for the discussion.

[outbound]

to the OP:

i'd think about a full-sine inverter/charger combo, i have an outback 2500w/125a unit.
if you look at what GOOD high output batt chargers cost, marine-rated units tending to be the best,
it's like getting the inverter for free!

i can replace 90% of my typical overnight drawdown in about an hour with the outback,
with 200w of PV doing the top-off (have been doing this for about 15yrs now, no problems)

ps: O&BTW, i'm running 400ah of AGM batts (no issues with gassing/corrosion, 15% 'easier' to rechg)
and will typically use 50-60ah overnight in summer, 80-90ah in winter (running a D2 appx 16hours)
most of it is for making heat with the inverter, for cooking with a 700w mwave, toaster, coffeemaker, crockpot, ricecooker etc.
with a 12vdc refrig, along with a hair drier to heat up/dryout ski boots etc

[john61ct]

Ah yes, the better half can definitely increase the need for AH capacities

But happy wife happy life, all part of the price we pay for companionship, may it last into our dotage. . .

8-)

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by HarryN

The acid fumes / corrosion is one area that annoys me………………….

I believe the proper word is not “fumes” but mist. Sulfuric acid doesn’t exist in a vapor phsde, at higher temperatures it brakes down to SO3 and H2O and this is not happening at room temperatures. Hydrogen and oxygen gases are generated during charging to various degree, known as outgassing, via bubbling they carrying tiny drops of battery acid in liquid phase. The end result is the same, very corrosive.

I think all flood acid batteries manufacturers required full venting, batteries can be placed anywhere as long they are in a fully vented compartment separated from living space.
Another reason for venting is removal of hydrogen and oxygen mixture which can explode via spark or open flame.

I believe that Fullriver, AGM batteries which I have also recommends not to place their batteries in living quarters, so even AGM batteries can outgas explosive gases in case of charging equipment malfunction, likely rare, and I ignored it this recommendation in my conversion.