skwoodwiva
Member
Pics in next 3 posts.
Added #4) a rock gard when a Sprinter guy said how many belts get trashed by flying objects.
Its hot now in LA, so I have done all 3.
I also have an Onan that leaks CO & it is in need of a crafty welder, muffler guys cannot do it well, at least 2 & one twice!
I put a reverse sw on my Fantastic Fan which helps but with many openings in the floor yet to be controlled, it is not enough.
I have been an HVACR building engineer for 35 years, I have yet to see very many vehicles with a system designed to keep the compressor "happy" temperature wise. Having the heat valve shut COMPLETELY is a no brainer. I go to a Sprinter guy & ask to see a good takeoff valve, it leaks a little when I blow through it. I am not saying a new one would but they might. He said it is fine 30 K miles. My 176 K leaks. Easy(not but is my baby) cheap solution from old parts: a manual ball valve 1/2 " SS NPT. I chose the area just above the throttle pedel. A strut channel 2 hole strap & 2 hose clamps make the mount to the firewall. The now (I ground to 1/4" looking just like a ratchet extension) fashioned shaft. On that I ground a short extension leaving the 1/4 female. Then tapering the boss area to a smooth cone & finally fashioning the end to look like the original valve Conbraco shaft & cut some usable threads in it for the handle & nut.
I took the bottom connector off the valve, that modulates just fine, and ran ~2 foot extension each way. On the one going back I added a brass T, 3/4 barb. On that I have a 6 " hose & hose- GH pair to allow flushing & testing for shutoff of the new valve as I may need to mark the on / handle positions on the plastic fire wall cover. Note the taper is greased w/ pressure applied from the 2 hole strap sealing the pass through rod.
All for now, hot today I must fini the fan sw, just a spdt toggle on the fire wall hot , common going to the fan & engine or aux on the switched terms. This dovetales well w/ the manual vent. I have another dash sw w/ a 15 min time out to utilize
Added #4) a rock gard when a Sprinter guy said how many belts get trashed by flying objects.
Its hot now in LA, so I have done all 3.
I also have an Onan that leaks CO & it is in need of a crafty welder, muffler guys cannot do it well, at least 2 & one twice!
I put a reverse sw on my Fantastic Fan which helps but with many openings in the floor yet to be controlled, it is not enough.
I have been an HVACR building engineer for 35 years, I have yet to see very many vehicles with a system designed to keep the compressor "happy" temperature wise. Having the heat valve shut COMPLETELY is a no brainer. I go to a Sprinter guy & ask to see a good takeoff valve, it leaks a little when I blow through it. I am not saying a new one would but they might. He said it is fine 30 K miles. My 176 K leaks. Easy(not but is my baby) cheap solution from old parts: a manual ball valve 1/2 " SS NPT. I chose the area just above the throttle pedel. A strut channel 2 hole strap & 2 hose clamps make the mount to the firewall. The now (I ground to 1/4" looking just like a ratchet extension) fashioned shaft. On that I ground a short extension leaving the 1/4 female. Then tapering the boss area to a smooth cone & finally fashioning the end to look like the original valve Conbraco shaft & cut some usable threads in it for the handle & nut.
I took the bottom connector off the valve, that modulates just fine, and ran ~2 foot extension each way. On the one going back I added a brass T, 3/4 barb. On that I have a 6 " hose & hose- GH pair to allow flushing & testing for shutoff of the new valve as I may need to mark the on / handle positions on the plastic fire wall cover. Note the taper is greased w/ pressure applied from the 2 hole strap sealing the pass through rod.
All for now, hot today I must fini the fan sw, just a spdt toggle on the fire wall hot , common going to the fan & engine or aux on the switched terms. This dovetales well w/ the manual vent. I have another dash sw w/ a 15 min time out to utilize
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