Restoring Exterior Plastic Body Panels

discus

GA Westy
discus,



Just curious, you posted using SEM Bumper Coater on bumpers and rear wheel trim. You seem fairly confident something like this would not work on the panels.....



Wondering why? Because of thickness of material, is that "key" to keeping it from cracking again? If the cracks are filled with something like caulk that can expand/contract, and the paint is flexible. it seems it would work (but I really have no idea!). But a few comments here imply it wont because of the contraction/expansion due to heat.



In your case, using the filler, filled the cracks, but it seems you are relying on the bedliner to eliminate the contraction/expansion going forward, otherwise the filler would just crack over time, I assume. Or is the adhesive you used "flexible" like a caulk?



Spending $400-$500 to have it sprayed with bed liner is bit out of my budget for plastic trim, although I am sure it works well.



Appreciate everyone's input.


I agree with you. Its not worth it.

I didn’t have to pay for product. If I had to pay for it, I would remove the plastic, have my body shop spray a textured coating that they use on the rocker panels, then spray it black.

There is too much movement in that large piece of brittle plastic. It will crack again.

Bumper coater is just paint. Not a high build product.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
As these Westies become classics, various methods of preservation. Interesting to see what VW collectors do.

Some want all original, including replacements.

Some want all original, no replacements but repairs okay.

Some want all original, no replacements and no cosmetic repairs (maintain the rust patina, other warts, etc.). I read an article in some VW magazine re a VW van total mechanical restoration but the rusty exterior patina was preserved--German police pulled them over for driving an unsafe vehicle until the police saw the total restored mechanicals.

Some want improvements.

Etc.
 

Camp

Sprinter Westfalia
I've seen pictures from Europe of the side plastic panel replaced with OEM Mercedes glass.

https://www.furgovw.org/galeria/fotos/marcus/Syncro-Party-32.jpg

It looks like a lot of time and money, but is probably the cleanest "repair" that doesn't use the Westfalia panels. The water filler would have to be relocated, and I have no clue if there is anything mounted behind the steel window panel. I'm fairly certain that the biggest challenge would be removing all the metal shavings inside the van after cutting the opening. However, it definitely is a very factory look when completed.
 

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Interesting van. A glass window seems to be a lot of work and weight for a retrofit. Another modification would be bodywork to eliminate the window indentation--so smooth bodywork sheetmetal.

Another possibility besides a glass window instead of the rear black panel is that this is a semi-DIY Westy. Someone owned a glassed in Sprinter (with 270 degree opening rear doors and rear step bumper) and purchased one of the leftover Westfalia NAFTA kits (modified for the Truma water boiler). But, the rear doors do have the fake louver shroud panels.

I think the leftover kits were a really good deal. But would have to add all the labor.

I've seen a photo of a white Westy which had the tall rear doors (for a full-standing height Sprinter) and if I remember correctly, no upper window vents in the fiberglass top.

There is also the German shop which can replace.the fiberglass top (so presumably could add one as well).

So these may be variations of the Westfalia leftover kits or custom versions.

Would be interesting to know.
 

Camp

Sprinter Westfalia
I have looked at that light blue van many times, and still can't tell if it is a James Cook Westy or just a really good DIY project. I just can't imagine cutting behind the kitchen and bathroom! Still, that piece of glass is fairly cheap and easy to come by (unlike so many Westy parts). If it breaks, you can just pick up a new one at a dealer or glass shop.

This may be that white DIY one with the tall rear doors. It shows the "lovely" window cutout Mercedes gifted us under the plastic panel! (Not sure where I first saw this, so sorry if it's already been on here or the Yahoo Group)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Bh8Po5bixc
 

Kiltym

Active member
Just an update. I tried to fill one of the cracks with a good caulk, but it did not endure even a week or so of driving around. I realize I will get a "told you so" :), but wanted to at least post the results. Cleaned it all out to start over :).

Also, spoke to the local Line-X dealer, they will spray the panel for ~$250. Which is not too crazy. However, they will not warranty it 1 day since it is going on plastic and they have no idea if they material will stick to the panel or not. Based on discus, it seems to.

Next phase, I ordered some of the plastic bond/adhesive and will try that in a crack or two and drive around for a week and see how it goes. If it holds OK, will prep all the cracks and then make a decision on DIY paint or Line-X. Here is what I ordered and will try, and will report back results: https://www.jbweld.com/products/j-b-plastic-bonder-syringe

It is a urethane based adhesive, which should provide some flex without cracking. We shall see.
 

MrTomacco

Mr. Tommaco
Has anyone contacted a plastic vacuum forming company or a fiberglass company to make a mold and produce the plastic panels? Since you can't take it off the vehicle without destroying it, making an exact mold would require doing it on the vehicle. Perhaps a close enough mold could be made and a more resistant plastic or fiberglass be used.

Rob
 

Kiltym

Active member
Some more updates.

The JB Weld Plastic Bonder did not work. Compressed and cracked, and was squeezed out of the crack when the panel heated up.

Tried standard JB Weld as well, also did not work. Same issue.

Really almost seems impossible to find something to fill the cracks with that will hold. I suppose fiberglass mat and epoxy might do it, but watching the JB Weld get pushed out pretty easily makes me skeptical glass would do any better.


Discus, you stated you used an adhesive filler (probably similar to the JB Weld Plastic Bonder), and then painted over. This would imply to me that it is the bed liner that is actually holder together structurally and keep the cracks from compressing/expanding. Based on what I have tried so far, it seems amazing that your panels have stopped expanding/contracting in the heat so that the adhesive filler is not pushed out.... I did not think the bed liner would be strong enough to hold the panel fixed, since JB weld put into the cracks, was not, and pushed out when the panel had direct sun on it. But somehow, your's is holding.

The quest continues.....
 

hoflix

New member
what's actually under the side panel? plain sheet metal i am guessing, not glass. (?)
did anyone remove it completely to be done with it?
any pics available?
 

Kiltym

Active member
Correct, under the panel is the sheet metal for the van. It can be removed (and destroyed in the process), and the van painted, some owners have done this. There are some photos on here from owners that removed and painted the area black, but don't have time to find them right now.

Certainly an option, and may be the best one, but I am not quite ready to give up yet.
 

Camp

Sprinter Westfalia
Has anyone contacted a plastic vacuum forming company or a fiberglass company to make a mold and produce the plastic panels? Since you can't take it off the vehicle without destroying it, making an exact mold would require doing it on the vehicle. Perhaps a close enough mold could be made and a more resistant plastic or fiberglass be used.

Rob
An exact replica made out of fiberglass is probably the best long term solution for those wanting to preserve the original look. The only issue here would be the cost of making just a handful of fiberglass panels. The closest thing I've seen to the Westy panels in the US are the fiberglass window flares installed on vans to allow a bed to be mounted sideways in the rear. I've tried to track down off the shelf T1N Sprinter flares for a lower cost option, but they don't seem to exist. The T1N Gulf Stream Vista Cruiser was fitted with fiberglass flares at the factory, but they are not available for purchase (and very unattractive).

Here is a Vista Cruiser for reference:
https://www.smartrvguide.com/L51112637

In my hunt for T1N flares, I found an Oregon company called Flarespace that sells sets for newer vans. The quality is impressive, and they mount using a similar adhesive method. I imagine they could be installed without cutting the window, but they don't make any for the T1N Sprinter. Also turns out they don't make them in house. They use a company in Happy Valley, OR that produces a number of RV components called Miles Fiberglass and Composites.

https://www.milesfiberglass.com/
(If you read through the Flarespace site, they actually mention Miles Fiberglass halfway down the FAQ page)
http://www.flarespace.com/faq/

I have seen the flares that Miles Fiberglass manufactures for Flarespace in person, and they are flawless. With the number of flares they have made, it would probably be fairly easy for them to make a Westfalia panel out of fiberglass. If there ever is a time when a number of other Westy owners are interested in a fiberglass panel, I'd take my van there for the mold. I haven't contacted them yet, but I know that small jobs are extremely expensive at any fiberglass shop. If anyone else is farther along in the process of replicating the Westfalia panel at a reputable shop, I'd jump onboard to lower the cost. I'm not dead set on Miles Fiberglass, and would take a high quality fiberglass panel from any shop that can make one.
 

onemanvan

Active member
There are many threads on this forum revolving around the black plastic panels - most of them related to the cracks and how to repair them. I've followed that discussion for the past umpteen years. I eventually came to the conclusion the best option for me would be to eliminate the panel altogether.

The question then revolved around what to do after they were removed. Long story short I painted it and slapped a vinyl decal on it. I admit - it's a crappy rattle can paint job but it arguably matches the rest of the crappy paint. Arizona sun is hard on anything left outside - but at least rust isn't an issue:)

And yes - the plastic awning window had also reached EOL - so I recently swapped that out with an OEM slider window as well...

PXL_20221202_180940724.jpg

The strange thing with metallic paint is how blemishes are not as apparent under certain lighting conditions...
In this image taken before I added the decal my paint looks uniform and the OEM paint looks blemished.

PXL_20221130_144644501.jpg
 
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