ATV ramps for bed platform

Hey all,
Nothing to do while we wait for our July delivery but plan scheme and surf! Did search the ramp / bed but looking for someone to "show off" their latest, greatest version.
Have pretty much settled on what I will do for Power system using 3x100w Renogy solar panels, auxiliary alternator, Victron smart solar Mppt charge controller that will allow me to add another 100w panel, and a Victron multiplus compact 12v/2000w inverter charger. Planning to put together my own LiFePo4 360 ah battery using Calb cells and BMS/ balancer from Electric car parts company. Will also use a Victron battery monitor and Cold charge disconnect kit.
Near as I can figure this will cost approx. $7000 CAD. Planning approx. $20000CAD total budget for my conversion so I need to look for savings as I go along. Will consider things like a Truckfridge 130 instead of an Isotherm refrigerator, Espar D2 instead of D4, IKEA sink vs RV specific etc.
One relatively pricey item can be a 3 panel platform bed. Wondering if anyone has done a really nice job of using a couple of ATV ramps to fabricate platform panels to sit on angle iron rails riv-nutted to the walls. Would like to hear about this kind of project or any other " hey, I can build that myself" ideas. Anyone build their own roof rack, ala Aluminesse, or RB components. Looks doable and certainly is not rocket science. Only thing that could make this project cooler than it already is would be to do a "pro" job on a " value" budget. Any input ,much appreciated!
 
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(this is pretty choppy. I am just trying to give you a bunch of info quickly)

I am using the harbor freight 3 fold ramp. It was the lightest way I could find make strong bed panels. There was no way I could do it with 80/20 at this weight or prices. (I don't have a welder so thin wall aluminum and welding was out, and I'm not sure I could buy raw material much cheaper. I could make larger panels with fewer cross members.)
With a 25% off coupon it was only$75.

https://www.harborfreight.com/super-wide-tri-fold-loading-ramp-90018.html

It looks like the price has gone down from $99 and you can always get a 20% off coupon.

I am using it to sleep crosswise. For lengthwise you might need two of them, but it would be way cheaper than buying one of the bed solutions.

Here is the information I wished I could find when I was doing the same thing. (I bought the panels when I was waiting for delivery of the van.)
Actual dimensions of each panel are 37x166cm 14.57"x65.35" (with hinges and extension removed)
Weight per panel is just over 8#
(I ran out and took some photos for you.)
21.JPG
22.JPG
23.JPG

11/64 drill is what I used to drill out the rivets for the hinges and the extensions. 3/16 would probably be just as good or better.
The chains are held on with a bolt and nylock nut inside.
I forgot to measure the thickness, but it is just at 1.5". (My angle is out from the wall on L-track and I wanted the angle to not stick up above the edge of the ramp so the actual mattress can extend over the angle on mine.
At 65.5 long you can put them pretty high. I am going to put my bed high enough to see out the back windows under it.
If you want a low bed you will have to use wider angle and a spacer to keep the ramp centered.
I am using aluminum angle, as opposed to the steel that outsidevan, etc. use. It is lighter. Steel is cheaper and easier to paint. Aluminum is plenty for this application.

cross braces are recessed about 4mm so corroplast fits perfect. I think luan may be 5mm. Corroplast is only $10 for a sheet a Home depot. (if you want a flat surface)
24.JPG
 
Wow Julie777, you are awesome! Thank you for the response and making a special effort to send the pics. Much appreciated! I think there is no doubt that this idea is worthwhile, could produce a very nice installation and will save between $700 - $3000 over commercially available panel systems. Attaching the rails to L track is interesting. May be worthwhile in finding a way to compensate for the off plumb walls. Thanks again.
Gary
 

w_abel

New member
hey xcountry
I have sourced out a guy to make an aluminum roof rack similar to aluminess, basically 2 perimeter rings with expanded aluminum flooring with a cut out for a fan. Price is about 1700$ canadian ( its about 800 in materials). but will require painting after. he is currently making two but i imagine he would be happy to make a third if your interested. He is just working on a quote for the ladder as well.
We are also inquiring with him about costs to make a similar panel bed system like overland sprinter. The American dollar makes it so difficult to but from the states.
 
May be worthwhile in finding a way to compensate for the off plumb walls. Thanks again.
Gary
Regardless how you attach your bed support to the walls, if it is an angle type support you will want to shim it to level. I haven't done mine yet, but thinking about it. First, if using countersunk cap screws through the angle the countersink will allow just a little "float". Then small angled "washers" of plastic or aluminum could easily be fashioned to match the wall angle to allow the bed support angle to be set right. I'm not sure how far off it actually is. I gets worse the higher you go. I haven't seen anything done on any of the shop bed supports in the build threads. Anyone?
Adventure Vans MOAB bed rails look like they just have the rail shape, and the rail hanging by a tab, etc. to make it all work.
I may throw a mock-up together in the next few days to see. My bed will be 52" (underside) from the floor, which is pretty high. In contrast, Rbcomponents has high at 42" and low at 36".

This photo I snagged gives you an idea of 52" from the floor. You can also see the rear window and how the bed only blocks the top part. When I look out my rear window I don't seem to actually look out that high anyway. We'll see how it turns out.

High Bed.jpg
 
I'm with you on the angled shims to level the rail flange. Can envision something like what GeorgeRA developed for squaring up his 80/20 upper cabinet installation.. very nice clean solution.
 

owner

Oz '03 316CDI LWB ex-Ambo Patient Transport
When I was deciding how to do this, I was going to go with aluminium scaffold planks. But then I decided to just use wood. I used 200x20mm hardwood, 8 lengths around 1700mm long. I braced them into 3 separate "panels" using 10x20mm strips of wood. So 2 sets of 3 lengths, and one set of 2 lengths (with a much smaller gap - about 20mm) for the end where you climb up. Its been working great for several years now. Much cheaper but probably a fair bit heavier but much more forgiving if you bump your head on them - I have a lower bunk and the wood is for the upper bunk.

The bunk sits on 25mm SS square tube running down each side of the van. Attached in 3 places (I have windows all round so they attach to the C D and E pillars) with welded on flat 3mm SS brackets with 3 rivnuts at each attachment point.
 
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markxengineering

Active member
The ATV ramps are a great idea, cool that they worked. I considered the same because they looked cheaper than buying raw materials. I ended up making from scratch anyway because none of the ads showed details like section geometry/material thickness, and I didn't want to risk it.


This murphy bed is 75x44"- a single .040" thick sheet welded to a 1.5" aluminum box tube frame. The 1/2" dimple dies and hammer hits greatly improved the rigidity and prevented the popping and vibration noise that happens with this large a piece of sheet metal. It's pretty comfortable without a mattress, and might be nice in hot weather with a fan underneath (human radiator), but I plan to use a 3" latex foam. My main goal was lightweight- I will check soon but I'd guess about 30 pounds.

If anyone knows the weight of other platform solutions, including wood, I'd be interested in comparing. Wood would have been 20x easier to build.
 

TTMartin

Member
Hey all,
One relatively pricey item can be a 3 panel platform bed. Wondering if anyone has done a really nice job of using a couple of ATV ramps to fabricate platform panels to sit on angle iron rails riv-nutted to the walls. Would like to hear about this kind of project or any other " hey, I can build that myself" ideas. Anyone build their own roof rack, ala Aluminesse, or RB components. Looks doable and certainly is not rocket science. Only thing that could make this project cooler than it already is would be to do a "pro" job on a " value" budget. Any input ,much appreciated!
I'm doing a slow build trying out some temporary layouts in real life. Here is our bed in a 144" wheel base sprinter, using 4 sections of Harbor Freight ATV ramp. Slot cut in supports to allow for conversion into a seat. I will do some additional changes to the couch geometry as the current supports are just temporarily Velcro'd in place for testing. Sorry for the mess as this is just back from a 10 day test.


Set up as bed, table under bed.


Mattress folded in half, sheets and comforter still on mattress.


Table removed


Front two ATV ramps folded for seating


Cushions on couch


Folding table in front of couch
 

flyag1

Active member
I feel really lucky to have a tig welder which allows multiple choices most don't have. Sometimes to many choices as its hard to make decisions and get on with the build.

Anyway I finally decided to just weld up my own platform. 1" sq aluminum tube .125 walls.

The platform sets on top of my cabinets up front and in the rear I removed the grab handles and installed a jack point using the same attach fittings.

So basically no need to attach the bed to the wall. I have 43" of clearance under the bet so Mtn bikes will roll under with seat extended and wheels on.
 

Attachments

TXdaveski

Member
I feel really lucky to have a tig welder which allows multiple choices most don't have. Sometimes to many choices as its hard to make decisions and get on with the build.

Anyway I finally decided to just weld up my own platform. 1" sq aluminum tube .125 walls.

The platform sets on top of my cabinets up front and in the rear I removed the grab handles and installed a jack point using the same attach fittings.

So basically no need to attach the bed to the wall. I have 43" of clearance under the bet so Mtn bikes will roll under with seat extended and wheels on.
Just wondering how you get up into the bed, I didn't see a ladder in your pix. My bed frame is a little higher than yours (48") to fit over my motorcycle and its a trick to get in! But I do still have the crew bench seat installed, been climbing up that and crawling back.
 
Do you have pictures of your setup? I also bought these ramps with the same idea. I would like to know how you attached your your angle aluminum and how high.

Thanks.

(this is pretty choppy. I am just trying to give you a bunch of info quickly)

I am using the harbor freight 3 fold ramp. It was the lightest way I could find make strong bed panels. There was no way I could do it with 80/20 at this weight or prices. (I don't have a welder so thin wall aluminum and welding was out, and I'm not sure I could buy raw material much cheaper. I could make larger panels with fewer cross members.)
With a 25% off coupon it was only$75.

https://www.harborfreight.com/super-wide-tri-fold-loading-ramp-90018.html

It looks like the price has gone down from $99 and you can always get a 20% off coupon.

I am using it to sleep crosswise. For lengthwise you might need two of them, but it would be way cheaper than buying one of the bed solutions.

Here is the information I wished I could find when I was doing the same thing. (I bought the panels when I was waiting for delivery of the van.)
Actual dimensions of each panel are 37x166cm 14.57"x65.35" (with hinges and extension removed)
Weight per panel is just over 8#
(I ran out and took some photos for you.)
View attachment 95423
View attachment 95424
View attachment 95425

11/64 drill is what I used to drill out the rivets for the hinges and the extensions. 3/16 would probably be just as good or better.
The chains are held on with a bolt and nylock nut inside.
I forgot to measure the thickness, but it is just at 1.5". (My angle is out from the wall on L-track and I wanted the angle to not stick up above the edge of the ramp so the actual mattress can extend over the angle on mine.
At 65.5 long you can put them pretty high. I am going to put my bed high enough to see out the back windows under it.
If you want a low bed you will have to use wider angle and a spacer to keep the ramp centered.
I am using aluminum angle, as opposed to the steel that outsidevan, etc. use. It is lighter. Steel is cheaper and easier to paint. Aluminum is plenty for this application.

cross braces are recessed about 4mm so corroplast fits perfect. I think luan may be 5mm. Corroplast is only $10 for a sheet a Home depot. (if you want a flat surface)
View attachment 95426
 

jzyota

New member
(this is pretty choppy. I am just trying to give you a bunch of info quickly)

I am using the harbor freight 3 fold ramp. It was the lightest way I could find make strong bed panels. There was no way I could do it with 80/20 at this weight or prices. (I don't have a welder so thin wall aluminum and welding was out, and I'm not sure I could buy raw material much cheaper. I could make larger panels with fewer cross members.)
With a 25% off coupon it was only$75.

https://www.harborfreight.com/super-wide-tri-fold-loading-ramp-90018.html

It looks like the price has gone down from $99 and you can always get a 20% off coupon.

I am using it to sleep crosswise. For lengthwise you might need two of them, but it would be way cheaper than buying one of the bed solutions.

Here is the information I wished I could find when I was doing the same thing. (I bought the panels when I was waiting for delivery of the van.)
Actual dimensions of each panel are 37x166cm 14.57"x65.35" (with hinges and extension removed)
Weight per panel is just over 8#
(I ran out and took some photos for you.)
View attachment 95423
View attachment 95424
View attachment 95425

11/64 drill is what I used to drill out the rivets for the hinges and the extensions. 3/16 would probably be just as good or better.
The chains are held on with a bolt and nylock nut inside.
I forgot to measure the thickness, but it is just at 1.5". (My angle is out from the wall on L-track and I wanted the angle to not stick up above the edge of the ramp so the actual mattress can extend over the angle on mine.
At 65.5 long you can put them pretty high. I am going to put my bed high enough to see out the back windows under it.
If you want a low bed you will have to use wider angle and a spacer to keep the ramp centered.
I am using aluminum angle, as opposed to the steel that outsidevan, etc. use. It is lighter. Steel is cheaper and easier to paint. Aluminum is plenty for this application.

cross braces are recessed about 4mm so corroplast fits perfect. I think luan may be 5mm. Corroplast is only $10 for a sheet a Home depot. (if you want a flat surface)
View attachment 95426
Genius !
 

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