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Old Yesterday, 11:40 AM   #21
F2ca170
 
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Default Re: Shore power inlet?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AirJoseph View Post
Do you use an adapter to 15 amp with that twist lock?
I have one, but I normally use a 30 amp at a campground. I wired to handle a 30 amp main. I installed an AC unit and electric hot water heater as well. So I can use a full 30 at times. I installed a main panel with breakers and all.
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Old Yesterday, 01:26 PM   #22
Aqua Puttana
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Default Re: Shore power inlet?

Not that anyone asked...

I agree with Graphite Dave as to assessing your real power needs. Unless A/C is planned or possible, a 15 or 20 amp circuit is enough for general use. There may be an inconvenience factor for running electric heat while a hair blow dryer is used (turn the heater off for a minute), but otherwise 15/20 amps is sufficient.

Cost savings is one factor. 12 bucks for a 15 amp inlet.
https://www.campingworld.com/weekend...iABEgKjFfD_BwE


The lower amp components are cheaper. Another advantage is avoiding the larger, bulkier, more difficult to install 30 amp parts.

In case anyone feels that they need a 20 amp inlet vs a 15 amp, it doesn't matter. Wire it with 12 AWG and you're good to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
A newer or updated home will have at least one grade level GFCI protected receptacle fed by a 20 amp circuit. Using that receptacle to run one appliance at a time as described in the OP is absolutely not a problem. You only need the full 30 amp service to run more than one appliance at a time. Using a GFCI protected receptacle is not a problem.

Per the NEC 15 amp receptacles are allowed to be fed by a 20 amp circuit. The blade size of a 15 amp plug and a 20 amp plug are identical. What determines 15 vs 20 amp is the configuration of the blade. A 20 amp receptacle and plug have one blade at 90 degrees opposed to the other. Wire size is critical to the safe loading of the circuit, not the blade configuration.

A 15 amp to 30 amp adapter will likely have 12 awg conductors from the 15 amp plug to the 30 amp female end, or at least 14 gauge. For the 1 foot length either is fine for 20 amp load. As long as the plug and residential receptacle are in serviceable condition nothing will melt.

Adding to the above, except for the inrush current the A/C unit will not pull 20 amps continuous anyway. The running current will likely be around 13 - 14 amps +/-. That is within the typical design parameter of 80% continuous circuit loading for a 20 amp circuit, and close for even a 15 amp. The A/C unit is the largest load contained in a typical RV conversion.

Running one appliance at time will not be a problem at all.

vic

Added:
15/20 amp supply. The caveat being operating one appliance at a time. An owner may have a 120 volt water heater and/or a 120 volt refrigeration unit. Those can draw enough power to tip the balance with a 15/20 amp circuit. One sure way to make certain that those loads aren't in the mix is to open the associated breaker in the RV power panel.
I also completely agree with carrying an assortment of adapters. Having options is always a good thing.

vic
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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; Yesterday at 01:35 PM.
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