T1N DIY Running Board Bracket + Step Installation

Running boards and steps for the Sprinter van comes up occasionally. My 2006 T1N has aluminum Deflecta-Shield running boards. I don't believe that the Deflecta-Shield running boards are still available for T1N these days. It is too bad because they are a nice looking and well built product.

Added:
Apparently Deflecta Shield still offers running boards under the Lund brand name. Ford vans have a 138" WB. Maybe the basic Ford running boards have maintained the channel brackets that will fit the T1N adapter plates which I show the dimensions for.
https://theshopmag.com/sites/default/files/features/lund_app_guide_2015_0.pdf
(page 64)

Given a proper support bracket, many running boards or steps could be adapted DIY to fit our Sprinters. I figured that posting some dimensions and pictures for the Deflecta-Shield system might be of value. They basically attach to the pinch welds to provide a vertical flat surface for another design support bracket to fit. Once a flat vertical surface is available, attaching another product DIY becomes very feasible.







For DIY sheet metal for the brackets should be available from any local metal fab shop. Ask for some "drops" to be cut to size. 7 3/4"x6, or 8"x6" pieces.

The upper notch can be cut with a hacksaw. The right angle flanges can easily be bent in a decent sized vice. 7 3/4"x6", or 8"x6" stock. If you use the pictures and measurements to create a cardboard pattern, the shop can fab them for you. (They often charge extra for layout work.) Don't forget the small jumper bracket which adapts to the pinch weld. That part is critical.

There should be a Stanley metal bracket that will work as the small jumper piece.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sta...KHRSVCOQQ9QEwCXoECAUQFg#imgrc=mfHWlLx9yrA4qM:

The slotted holes are not necessary if you are willing to custom fit and then drill the brackets for your situation.

Feel free to add any other bracket designs which may work to adapt any of the running board or step products which are currently still available for Sprinters. That especially applies to our aging T1N's. There is less value for suppliers to offer products for them as they slowly fade away.

At good price I just picked up a couple Bully Black Bull Series Aluminum Side Steps BBS-1103 which look promising for adapting to my 2004. (My wife got spoiled with having the Deflecta-Shield running board steps to help climbing up into the Sprinter. Happy wife, happy life.)

vic

Re: Running Board or Step Bracket dimensions

Adapting a Bully Loop Step to a T1N

I found a returned pair of BBS-1103 Bully steps for 22 bucks. There was some chipped paint... they will end up dinged up in service anyway. I figured for the price I could make them work.

Bully BBS-1103 Black Aluminium Side Steps (1 Pair)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062IJOJ2

These appear to be the same steps.

The Bully steps are not necessarily intended to fit a Sprinter. I didn't find any way to get the included brackets to fit my T1N.

I did notice that when a step was held basically in place a flat part of the casting was at the rocker panel lower pinch weld. By using a set of clamp plates I was able to secure the step to the pinch weld. The upper plate extends the step casting out enough to properly contact the pinch weld for support. To stabilize the entire clamp assembly I used screws on the Lower Plate which fasten into the rocker panel. (Note that the Deflecta Shield running board brackets in post #1 use the pinch welds for support.)

The step assembly basically pivots on the lower clamp assembly with the upper casting needing to bear against a stop. For additional support the upper casting of the steps bear against the inner wall of the rocker panel. For that fastening I used a 3/8" nut and washer to set proper spacing with a self drilling screw.

The 2" x 3 1/4" 16 gauge steel plates that I used were on hand. The plates could easily be duplicated by purchasing some 2" flat steel stock to cut and drill to fit. The 2" dimension of the Upper Plate is a minimum. The first step that I installed I used a 2 1/4" wide plate. 2 1/4" does seem to fit a bit better. It is not better enough to not just use the more common 2" stock steel.

My original thought was for a longer top plate, but I used material that was on hand. The upper clamp plate could be around 12 inches long to bridge the two attachment points. That would give additional surface area bearing upon the pinch weld. There are some drain slots which may make a longer bracket less easy to install. With 2 ea. separate clamp plates the drain slot areas can be avoided.

Some pictures should help.

The step assembly is shown upside down to reveal the clamp plate installation.



For clamping I used the 5/16" shank bolts which came with the Bully steps. The shank was too long. To adjust for that I added more washers than would be necessary for a full thread fastener. The formed metal piece came with the Bully step.



This is the lower clamp plate installed. I used self drilling hex head screws as fasteners.



The top of the step casting bears against the inner wall of the rocker panels. I used a 3/8" nut and washer as a spacer.



With a lower point of view the screws and clamp plates on the outside of the rocker panel show a bit. I used the entire lower steel clamp plate 3 1/4" length available because the lower sections of my rocker panels are rusted. The screws needed to be up high enough to assure good metal. A shorter plate with the screws out of sight can be used if the rocker panels are solid. I considered using pop rivets rather than screws. Pop rivets or even round head screws would show less than the hex heads that I used.

As an aside. With prep time limited, before step installation I needed to install sheet metal covers on my rusted rocker panels to provide pinch weld and support for the screws. Future work will address some additional rusted areas and paint the patch metal that I installed.

Added:
It is not clear in the picture, but the steps don't protrude out any further than the front mud flaps.
Added 2:
Just noticed yesterday that given the curvature and recess of the rocker panel, the step isn't sticking out too far. It needs to be out far enough for vision and stepping firmly on it to enter the side door. (I see that another Bully set is available in Amazon Warehouse for 29 bucks.)



It was certainly worth the 22 bucks for me.

vic


Added:
I measured 8", maybe 8 1/2" clearance Bully step off the concrete driveway.

Added2:
The 2006 Deflecta Shield running boards measure 9 1/2", maybe 10" clearance off the driveway. Both the 2004 and 2006 2500 HC (what most consider "normal" or low roof) are running standard LT225 75R 16 tires.

Update:
2018/12/20, 2021/6/26 The loop steps work great. My wife and other passengers love them.
Some things noticed.
Leaves get caught on the vertical parts. During winter ice and snow will build up on the structures, but the simple action of stepping on the loop foot piece seems to break any buildup loose.

First. The Deflecta-Shield running boards on the 2006 140 2500HC are 102", maybe 103" long. They're pretty much full length.

Combined with the brackets in my first post, some running boards look like they could be installed on a T1N Sprinter. Price is a driver for me posting these first options. As low as 100 - 130 bucks today. Possibly cheaper than other DIY material options. Search Amazon Warehouse for best price (use step, running board, Tyger, etc.).

If the included parts don't directly adapt to the brackets in post #1, other supports/adapters can be fabricated from box store metal parts (angle, box steel).

Some less expensive Amazon Warehouse examples.
Actually these are for the ubiquitous pickup trucks found in the USA so supplies shouldn't dry up. Pickup truck boards will not be full length. The set should provide a step area for the front door and and the front portion of the side sliding door. Solid color pieces might be the better choice because the provided step pads may not align. Double cab units are likely longer than crew cab.

Tyger Auto TG-RS2C40037 RISER For 07-18 Chevy Silverado / GMC Sierra 1500/2500/3500HD Ext/Double Cab 4"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01AH5J9KY

Tyger Auto TG-RS2T40158 RISER For 2005-2018 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab 4inch Black
https://www.amazon.com/Tyger-Auto-TG-RS2T40158-2005-2018-Running/dp/B01AH5J80U

Tyger Auto TG-AM2T20208 Star Armor Kit for 2007-2018 Toyota Tundra CrewMax | Textured Black |
https://www.amazon.com/Tyger-Auto-TG-AM2T20208-2007-2018-Textured/dp/B01M0G8HKA

Tyger Auto TG-RS2C40047 RISER For 2007-2018 Chevy Silverado / GMC Sierra 1500/2500/3500HD Crew Cab (Rocker Panel Mount) 4inch
https://www.amazon.com/Tyger-Auto-TG-RS2C40047-2007-2018-Silverado/dp/B01AH5JBKW

MaxMate Custom Fit 2009-2018 Ram 1500 Crew Cab/2010-2019 Ram 2500/3500 Crew Cab 4 inch
https://www.amazon.com/MaxMate-2009-2018-2010-2019-Stainless-Mounting/dp/B00EP3PUV2


The following examples will likely be more expensive because they might not show up on Amazon Warehouse very often. (Vans are less popular in the USA than are pickup trucks.)

NCV3 model. 97"/31" long. The included brackets may even fit a T1N? (The provided brackets can be cut out a bit. If DIY fitment to T1N compromises strength, I suggest that adapters can be attached to the T1N pinch weld(s) similar to the short adapter style in post #1.)

APS iBoard (Black Powder Coated 5 inches) Running Boards | Nerf Bars | Side Steps | Step Rails for 2007-2009 Dodge Sprinter Full Size Van
https://www.amazon.com/APS-Running-2007-2009-Sprinter-Mercedes-Benz/dp/B076TH7XHD

Ford Transit van might adapt? (Transit 97" and 31" length vs the 140WB 2500HC 102".)

APS iBoard Running Boards (Nerf Bars | Side Steps | Step Bars) for 2015-2017 Ford Transit Full Size Van 3-Door | (Black Powder Coated 5 inches)
https://www.amazon.com/APS-iBoard-Running-2015-2017-Transit/dp/B076TVB3D4

Ionic Factory Style (fits) 2014-2018 Dodge Ram ProMaster 159" WB 39" Driver & 100" Passenger Boards
https://www.amazon.com/Ionic-Factory-Style-2014-2018-3810392010/dp/B015R4XVUE

LUVERNE 584100-570744O-Mega IICargo Van Side Steps
https://www.amazon.com/584100-570744-Non-Skid-Aluminum-Powder-Coated-Truck/dp/B06XTTSMRY

If anyone decides to use the above please post some pictures here. I think that the pickup truck running boards will look good, but pictures would help to verify that.


The Bully steps BBS-1103 seem to appear often on Amazon Warehouse priced in the mid-20's.

vic

Aqua Puttana said:

Added:
I measured 8", maybe 8 1/2" clearance Bully step off the concrete driveway.

Click to expand...

I just installed Carr superhoops that Carr says will fit my NCV3. Ground clearance is 5" using the adjustment hole recommended -- too low, I think. I'll try another hole but if I bring them up too far the flat step is going to be tilted 20-30 degrees inward, which might look goofy.

You've had yours a couple of years now. Have you hit anything with them?

Lagom said:

I just installed Carr superhoops that Carr says will fit my NCV3. Ground clearance is 5" using the adjustment hole recommended -- too low, I think. I'll try another hole but if I bring them up too far the flat step is going to be tilted 20-30 degrees inward, which might look goofy.

You've had yours a couple of years now. Have you hit anything with them?

Click to expand...

Sorry for the late reply. I didn't see your question.

As of June 2021 the hoop steps are working fine for both the passenger and side door entry. The steps have not hit anything to date. They don't hang any lower than my commercially installed 2006 running boards.

vic

Some spots of the 2004 rocker panels were rusted to the point that I needed to add some repair plates to install the hoop steps. I have a stack of plated corrosion test coupons I acquired. They work great for making some sheet metal items.

This is what my repair pieces look like.



I have enough test coupons to give some away. I believe they will ship in the USPS "Fits/ships" envelope. I can send them off for the cost of shipping. 2 ea. needed per step if your rocker panels need reinforcing. They will ship flat. You'll need to bend them to shape.

vic

I've just begun a conversion on a 2006 2500 SHC 140". This will be my second Sprinter conversion. To make the new van comfortable for my wife to get into and out of, I decided my first task should be to add running boards. I installed Owens aluminum running boards on the conversion I did in 2016. They've gotten pretty expensive in the last few years, plus I found them to be a little springier than I'd prefer. I decided to try one of the suggested options in Vic's post above:

Aqua Puttana said:

Tyger Auto TG-RS2C40047 RISER For 2007-2018 Chevy Silverado / GMC Sierra 1500/2500/3500HD Crew Cab (Rocker Panel Mount) 4inch
https://www.amazon.com/Tyger-Auto-TG-RS2C40047-2007-2018-Silverado/dp/B01AH5JBKW

Click to expand...

I chose the black 5" - black because they're less expensive than the silver, and 5" to come as close as possible to the width of the Owens boards.
I received the order very quickly - kudos to Amazon and Fed-Ex. On examining the running boards, the first thing I discovered was that by installing them backwards to the factory identified orientation (driver's side mounted on the passenger's, etc.), the plastic skid mats match the doors of the Sprinter much better than if mounted according to the instructions.
The mounting brackets are designed to bolt to the rocker panel pinch welds on the Chevy pickup they're made for. The pinch welds on the Sprinter are more vertical than the Chevy's apparently are. Holding the bracket against the back panel of the rocker channel, there was a significant gap between the pinch weld and the flange that is supposed to bolt to it. The step wells also prevent the bracket from mounting high enough to bring the flange even with the pinch weld. I used a length of 1/8" x 1 1/4" galvanized steel flat stock to make extensions to bridge the gap between pinch weld and mounting bracket flange. With some experimentation, I determined that a 3" length of the flat stock with a 1/4" hole fairly close to one end and a 5/16" hole about 1" in from the other end, with a bend of approximately 29 degrees at the midway point of the length resulted in a secure attachment with the top of the running board very close to level. I prepared 8 of them - see the first and second images below.
The next challenge was that the flange that should be bolted to the backside of the rocker panel channel only touched the sheet metal at the tip, with a 1/2" gap at the bottom of the flange. I had some scraps of 1/2" PVC sheet goods (sold by Home Depot) which seemed like a good material to fashion some pads to fill the gaps with - dense, structurally substantial, and impervious to the conditions they would be subjected to. I ripped a 2" width and cut it on my bandsaw to a long wedge, roughly 1/2" thick tapering to slightly more than a feather edge. I then chopped the length into 8 1 1/2" x 2" wedges, which I drilled a 5/16" hole in the center of - slightly oversize for the 1/4" self-drilling hex-head fasteners I planned to use - see the third photo below.
I bolted my flat stock extensions to the pinch weld flange on all mounting brackets with 5/16" x 1" cap screws with flat and lock washers that came with the kit, then used 1/4" x 1" self-drilling hex-head fasteners to attach the front bracket to the pinch weld. I found 9" back from the front end of the pinch weld to be the best place to attach the front bracket. Next, I removed the mounted bracket and attached it, along with the other three brackets to the passenger side running board (the one identified as driver's side as packaged). With all mounting brackets attached to the running board, I re-attached the front bracket to the hole I had already drilled. I blocked the other end of the running board up with scrap timbers to bring it up close to the height it would be installed to, then lifted it into position and marked the location of the mounting hole on the aft-most bracket. Lowering the running board back onto the blocks, I ran a self-drilling fastener through the pinch weld flange at my mark. I removed the fastener, lifted the running board back into position and screwed the fastener into the hole I had predrilled to secure the running board in place. Once the ends were secured, I was able to drill and screw the other two brackets.
Having the passenger side running secured, I crawled under the van and secured the other flange to the back panel of the rocker panel channel. To do that, I inserted one of my PVC wedges between the flange and the rocker panel, then ran a 1/4" x 1 1/2" self-drilling hex-head fastener through it, again including a flat washer. See images 129 and 131.
With the Passenger side done, I repeated the process on the driver's side. Of the 8 provided mounting brackets, there are 7 that are identical to those in my photos, and one oddball - apparently to work around a DEF tank in the Chevy pickups they're designed for. I place the oddball on the driver's side, 3rd from the front. I was only able to attach it to the pinch weld. With it in that position, the area I step on getting into and out of the cab is weel supported, as is the trailing end of the running board. The area that's compromised should get little or no use. It was a little challenging securing the flanges on the back side of the rocker panel on the driver's side - the fuel tank makes it difficult - but I was able to get the job done. I've reached my limit on attachments, so see the next post for photos of the finished job.

Final thoughts on the Tyger running boards: they're stiffer than the Owens ones on my first conversion, they were a little more than half the cost, and, with them installed reversed from the directions, they put the non-skid steps pretty much where they should be. The tread in front of the slider is a little aft of where Id put it, given my choice, but it's not bad. I applied 3M Safety-Walk no-slip tape (4" width) to the top surface of the passenger side everywhere there wasn't molded tread. I'm very happy with the finished job, and, probably more importantly, so is my wife. The installation was a little challenging, but I don't think the final job was particularly compromised by my Rube Goldberg hack. Thanks to Vic for the suggestions. I don't think I would have tried it without the nudge.

Nice job! Thanks for the details.

Verino said:

... Thanks to Vic for the suggestions. I don't think I would have tried it without the nudge.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words.

I find myself looking at different running boards on various vehicles and thinking... "Those might adapt nicely to a Sprinter". So many of the running boards are similar dimensions. As the T1N's get older the market hardly supports aftermarket people even keeping them in stock anymore.

vic

220629 said:

First. The Deflecta-Shield running boards on the 2006 140 2500HC are 102", maybe 103" long. They're pretty much full length.

Combined with the brackets in my first post, some running boards look like they could be installed on a T1N Sprinter. Price is a driver for me posting these first options. As low as 100 - 130 bucks today. Possibly cheaper than other DIY material options. Search Amazon Warehouse for best price (use step, running board, Tyger, etc.).

If the included parts don't directly adapt to the brackets in post #1, other supports/adapters can be fabricated from box store metal parts (angle, box steel).

Some less expensive Amazon Warehouse examples.
Actually these are for the ubiquitous pickup trucks found in the USA so supplies shouldn't dry up. Pickup truck boards will not be full length. The set should provide a step area for the front door and and the front portion of the side sliding door. Solid color pieces might be the better choice because the provided step pads may not align. Double cab units are likely longer than crew cab.

Tyger Auto TG-RS2C40037 RISER For 07-18 Chevy Silverado / GMC Sierra 1500/2500/3500HD Ext/Double Cab 4"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01AH5J9KY

Tyger Auto TG-RS2T40158 RISER For 2005-2018 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab 4inch Black
https://www.amazon.com/Tyger-Auto-TG-RS2T40158-2005-2018-Running/dp/B01AH5J80U

Tyger Auto TG-AM2T20208 Star Armor Kit for 2007-2018 Toyota Tundra CrewMax | Textured Black |
https://www.amazon.com/Tyger-Auto-TG-AM2T20208-2007-2018-Textured/dp/B01M0G8HKA

Tyger Auto TG-RS2C40047 RISER For 2007-2018 Chevy Silverado / GMC Sierra 1500/2500/3500HD Crew Cab (Rocker Panel Mount) 4inch
https://www.amazon.com/Tyger-Auto-TG-RS2C40047-2007-2018-Silverado/dp/B01AH5JBKW

MaxMate Custom Fit 2009-2018 Ram 1500 Crew Cab/2010-2019 Ram 2500/3500 Crew Cab 4 inch
https://www.amazon.com/MaxMate-2009-2018-2010-2019-Stainless-Mounting/dp/B00EP3PUV2


The following examples will likely be more expensive because they might not show up on Amazon Warehouse very often. (Vans are less popular in the USA than are pickup trucks.)

NCV3 model. 97"/31" long. The included brackets may even fit a T1N? (The provided brackets can be cut out a bit. If DIY fitment to T1N compromises strength, I suggest that adapters can be attached to the T1N pinch weld(s) similar to the short adapter style in post #1.)

APS iBoard (Black Powder Coated 5 inches) Running Boards | Nerf Bars | Side Steps | Step Rails for 2007-2009 Dodge Sprinter Full Size Van
https://www.amazon.com/APS-Running-2007-2009-Sprinter-Mercedes-Benz/dp/B076TH7XHD

Ford Transit van might adapt? (Transit 97" and 31" length vs the 140WB 2500HC 102".)

APS iBoard Running Boards (Nerf Bars | Side Steps | Step Bars) for 2015-2017 Ford Transit Full Size Van 3-Door | (Black Powder Coated 5 inches)
https://www.amazon.com/APS-iBoard-Running-2015-2017-Transit/dp/B076TVB3D4

Ionic Factory Style (fits) 2014-2018 Dodge Ram ProMaster 159" WB 39" Driver & 100" Passenger Boards
https://www.amazon.com/Ionic-Factory-Style-2014-2018-3810392010/dp/B015R4XVUE

LUVERNE 584100-570744O-Mega IICargo Van Side Steps
https://www.amazon.com/584100-570744-Non-Skid-Aluminum-Powder-Coated-Truck/dp/B06XTTSMRY

If anyone decides to use the above please post some pictures here. I think that the pickup truck running boards will look good, but pictures would help to verify that.


The Bully steps BBS-1103 seem to appear often on Amazon Warehouse priced in the mid-20's.

vic

Click to expand...

We had the I boards on one of our trucks there pretty nice, nice and wide