I've been lifting my Sprinters using this method since purchasing the 2004 in 2008. No problems to date.
An owner should evaluate my methods before applying them.
First let me say that this is in no way intended to suggest that people can just jack up their vehicles willy-nilly. It is also not intended as an instruction on proper jacking. Anytime you jack up any vehicle you need to be certain you understand what is involved to safely raise and stabilize your vehicle. This can include, but is not limited to, such things as choosing a suitable level surface, blocking the wheels, choosing a proper jack, using jack stands so as to not rely on your hydraulic jack components to hold a vehicle up and other standard industry practices.
The "Thou Shalt Not Jack a Sprinter Differential" Myth
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=90965#post90965
Pictures are worth a thousand words.
"I never 'jack' against the axle tube."
I would never jack against the axle tube with a floor jack with the possible exception of using a curved saddle adapter or wooden block on the floor jack cup and then position the lift point close to the tire/wheel. If there was no other option (Eg. - some Rv's have tanks blocking the OEM tire jack points), I would position the OEM tire jack curved saddle out near the tire/wheel and lift against the axle tube for a tire change. (For tire change you are essentially only lifting one wheel.)
vic
Added:
I was asked by P.M. if I would lift a 3500 using the differential. This is my answer FWIW.
"The factory tire change jack points are designed for the included OEM jack. They don't work well at all with a floor jack. I believe that when used properly the factory jack is fine for lifting, but it isn't very convenient compared to a floor jack.
I would use the pumpkin aka differential to jack a 3500. I'm certain that there are many, many Sprinter owners worldwide who don't visit this forum that either jack up their 3500 Sprinters, or there is some tire store lifting it using the differential. That also applies to RV's. What method do you think they use on the Mexican and Argentine built Sprinters? Jacking the differential using a floor jack is a standard industry practice.
As you mentioned, catching the cover edge can be an issue. In my pictures [above] I show a plywood pad, but most often I use the same block of wood shown for the front.
A sufficiently long 4x4 or even 2x4 block will bear against both the rear cover flange and the differential body.
Some people worry about the axle tube socket fittings being a weak link. By now if there were even one Sprinter which was damaged by someone jacking the differential, there are those on the forum who would gleefully post it to show me the error of my ways. I've not seen one damage post since being aware of the myth in 2008. Mostly the Negative Nelly's quote the Operator Manual instructions, which references the OEM tire change bottle jack, not a floor jack.
I think that a 4 Ton floor jack is overkill. The [older style] larger floor jacks are bit unwieldy vs a lighter duty jack with sufficient rating. I generally use a 2 ton on my 2500, but have occasionally used the 1 1/4 ton Hein-Werner. A 1 1/4 ton floor jack is probably a bit light for a 3500."
These are the old style 4 ton jacks that I recall.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HEIN-WERNER-4-Ton-Capacity-Blue-Hydraulic-Service-Jack-HW93657/306943439
The long style jacks would definitely be handy for jacking a Sprinter. That said, for occasional DIY use I don't think it is worth the extra cost... 2000 bucks??
Looking at what Harbor Freight offers, it appears that the 4 ton jacks are no longer as big as my old memories recall. They seem very much the same size vs a 3 ton across various brand names.
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=floor jack
I have no problem with Harbor Freight jacks for DIY use. It is used to lift the vehicle, not support it while you are under the vehicle. Everyday pro use might wear one out, not DIY use. Remember to periodically oil any and all floor jacks, especially any roller which bears against the pump stem. I recently bought a HF low profile jack for lifting my wife's car. At 59 bucks it was worth the convenience alone.
Added:
An owner should evaluate my methods before applying them.
First let me say that this is in no way intended to suggest that people can just jack up their vehicles willy-nilly. It is also not intended as an instruction on proper jacking. Anytime you jack up any vehicle you need to be certain you understand what is involved to safely raise and stabilize your vehicle. This can include, but is not limited to, such things as choosing a suitable level surface, blocking the wheels, choosing a proper jack, using jack stands so as to not rely on your hydraulic jack components to hold a vehicle up and other standard industry practices.
The "Thou Shalt Not Jack a Sprinter Differential" Myth
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=90965#post90965
Pictures are worth a thousand words.
"I never 'jack' against the axle tube."
I would never jack against the axle tube with a floor jack with the possible exception of using a curved saddle adapter or wooden block on the floor jack cup and then position the lift point close to the tire/wheel. If there was no other option (Eg. - some Rv's have tanks blocking the OEM tire jack points), I would position the OEM tire jack curved saddle out near the tire/wheel and lift against the axle tube for a tire change. (For tire change you are essentially only lifting one wheel.)
vic
Added:
I was asked by P.M. if I would lift a 3500 using the differential. This is my answer FWIW.
"The factory tire change jack points are designed for the included OEM jack. They don't work well at all with a floor jack. I believe that when used properly the factory jack is fine for lifting, but it isn't very convenient compared to a floor jack.
I would use the pumpkin aka differential to jack a 3500. I'm certain that there are many, many Sprinter owners worldwide who don't visit this forum that either jack up their 3500 Sprinters, or there is some tire store lifting it using the differential. That also applies to RV's. What method do you think they use on the Mexican and Argentine built Sprinters? Jacking the differential using a floor jack is a standard industry practice.
As you mentioned, catching the cover edge can be an issue. In my pictures [above] I show a plywood pad, but most often I use the same block of wood shown for the front.
A sufficiently long 4x4 or even 2x4 block will bear against both the rear cover flange and the differential body.
Some people worry about the axle tube socket fittings being a weak link. By now if there were even one Sprinter which was damaged by someone jacking the differential, there are those on the forum who would gleefully post it to show me the error of my ways. I've not seen one damage post since being aware of the myth in 2008. Mostly the Negative Nelly's quote the Operator Manual instructions, which references the OEM tire change bottle jack, not a floor jack.
These are the old style 4 ton jacks that I recall.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HEIN-WERNER-4-Ton-Capacity-Blue-Hydraulic-Service-Jack-HW93657/306943439
The long style jacks would definitely be handy for jacking a Sprinter. That said, for occasional DIY use I don't think it is worth the extra cost... 2000 bucks??
Looking at what Harbor Freight offers, it appears that the 4 ton jacks are no longer as big as my old memories recall. They seem very much the same size vs a 3 ton across various brand names.
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=floor jack
I have no problem with Harbor Freight jacks for DIY use. It is used to lift the vehicle, not support it while you are under the vehicle. Everyday pro use might wear one out, not DIY use. Remember to periodically oil any and all floor jacks, especially any roller which bears against the pump stem. I recently bought a HF low profile jack for lifting my wife's car. At 59 bucks it was worth the convenience alone.
Added:
My 2004 and 2006 2500 140 T1N's have a GVWR of 8550#. The 3500 models are 9990#.
Curb weight: 4,316 to 4,901 lbs
vic
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