25% is effective, however more to a point is better and there is a point that there is a difference just not as much.At minimum 50% and focus on the large flat surfaces. The cost difference your talking about is $200-300 more in material...its a 100k van when done...not going to go cheap on a van this expensive nor would I do the same on my custom cars. It also makes the audio much better. You would notice a pretty big difference in this van compared to someone else who skipped on materials or used the wrong stuff. I once purchased a van that was done professionally with denim insulation and had been "insulated and had sound deadening" done. I honestly thought it had none till I pulled it apart and found it stuffed with denim stuff)...when I was done by changing everything it was a HUGE difference.
I go right over the factory deadening and there is no downside to using Ensolite as they are giving that away free with an order if you have it. I have used that in the past...its nice, but certainly not as good as 3M thinsulate...but that is obvious because the thickness. I have also seen sound deadener and ensolite and sound deadener sandwich if you wanted to go nuts in deadening like on your floor, but that is A LOT of material and really for spl or hot rod applications with super loud exhaust systems.Thanks for the clarification.
Do you install the RAAM over the factory noise-canceling mats? Also, do you combine the RAAM mats with Ensolite?
Three pictures up shows the orange adwag braces behind the wall panels.For your Moab bed, did you use their bracing for behind the wall panels or did you make your own? How do you like how the bed functions?
Thank you, I miss that.Three pictures up shows the orange adwag braces behind the wall panels.
Yes I use their system on this particular bed. It would not be however difficult to make your own if you can weld, however they will be discontinuing this version soon from my understanding. By building the van the way I did using the EXISTING interior you save $9,000 and that is if you paid a professional to do do all the work. Its not the same thing as their interior exactly and certainly not the same look, but my customers whom already have interiors and limited budgets take this 9k and it pays for swivels, table, heater, aux battery, solar...thats a huge difference in functionality. Their interior is an ok solution for a DIYer or a Cargo Van if you want that look and you put it in yourself and lack experience or tools.For your Moab bed, did you use their bracing for behind the wall panels or did you make your own? How do you like how the bed functions?
More progress getting to the more exciting stuff. I always say its what you don't see is all the hard work, time, and money. Upper storage bags are put in and the MOAB bed. I did not use a kit for the upper and side L track in the existing factory headliner as mentioned to save money and the bags don't fit perfectly as they are not designed for a headliner. (being super picky here, they actually work really well, I was one of the very first to do this) I also got around to finally getting the awning brackets in as well. Rear speakers are functioning as well without interfering with factory ECU...$1600 later. (not easy or cheap, had to go to a specialist to figure it out correctly)
I still am waiting to get the production run of the Lagun adaptor mounts so I have a front seating/dining area like I have done on other vans. This is the feature my family uses the most in our vans. I will also likely go over how to add a sink, kitchette easily as well in this build. Still thinking about some other eye candy stuff as well. Not going to put a Decked system in this van as the future owner may want or not want it, and they are not cheap. I would do this for sure if I was sleeping 4. Most of of your gear can be stored overhead and under the lower sleeping area.
A few more posts and summary of this build will be wrapped up in the next few weeks. This van only has 600 miles on it...all from picking up parts, I haven't even took it out yet on anything fun other than picking up parts!
Keeping rough track so far I have well over 20k in parts alone and about 150 hours into this van so far. If you added a kitchenette/sink this build does what a lot of builds do that are well over this amount and this includes the eye candy items as well. Adding a kitchenette/Sink and a porta potty this van will do what way more expensive builds do but be modular as well. Everything is removable in this van.
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Best way is to mock them up in your van, people pay me to do this so I don't go into specifics but easiest way...put L track on the bags...mark where it should go by holding the bag up, then do appropriate reinforcement that you feel good with. This is covered to some extent in another thread. This is how I did the very first ones; mocked it up, marked it, then mounted the L track. I have seen lots of ways to do this. None of the L track I mount is directly for the most part mounted into van sheet metal as you have gaps from headliner to van. Not hard to figure out if you are building your own van.I love your build so far. It is simple, logical and efficient.
I want to install Mule Bags in the 144 4X4 Crew that I have on order but I am definitely not going with with the Adwag conversion kit. My van will be a simple Moto Van with no real build-out but those bags would be super helpful for storing lightweight riding gear (jerseys, pants, helmet, etc.)
What is the best way to ensure I locate the L-track in exactly the right spot for the Mule Bags? Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
I always run loom for that reason or through anything sharp or when going through a firewall or metal wall I use a plastic gland or at minimum use a rubber grommet is best practice. You don't need to use loom to run along a wall in general with no sharp edges; but I do as it makes everything tight and tidy. You can also wrap the wires like OEM wire runs, this works similar to loom if not dealing with any sharp edges. Common sense as they say. When I drop a line down from above to lower cavity I use loom to protect the wire for this reason as it goes past a few sharp edges...wire without that could be compromised and short out. Which is also why you fuse everything properly which is certainly done on any of my builds.I am just starting a similar build on a 2016 passenger van. the only question i have is on the wiring do you protect it in a sleeve or just fasten with ties as needed. There are a lot of sharp edges the can attack wiring. Thanks for the good writeup as ours will be a weekend van that will serve dual or triple uses, and funds are limited so this helps us a lot.