POP nut DIY tool

white whale

Active member
Yes finally popped a nut so to speak. I always hated where the tie downs - the rotating semi circle buckles were located and wanted to add some more. After adding the grab bars in the back (another post) without a threaded spot thought it was time to do my own . I live in POPNUT country I guess. The tie downs are an M8 size - just learned about the metric id's for bolts too - up to that size the tool is not that bad cost wise <$100 , M8 and higher that gets to be a pricey tool.
The small compact one is $400 here. Thanks to the mighty TUBE its amazing what you can find.
Sort of combo of a few DIY's I came across.

1 nut driver hand tool
1 deep socket - 3/8" type, enough for the bolt to slide through.
seems the longest M8 bolt is 3 " so the socket needs to be chopped to allow for 3/4" +/- of the bolt threads to be exposed. This deep socket had a notch all the way round at one end for an easy hacksaw cut through.
weld a washer on both ends to allow the bolt cap to rest level as well as the surface where the tool will rest on the van surface.
Tough to find a 17/32, or metric equivalent drill bit so used a 1/2" and reamed it out a hair.
Probably a tighter fit this way for the nut.

1/2" socket end @ 13mm size and you are good to go. I used my corded impact gun I use for tires - trial and error for the ft lbs setting. 200 is the setting that will crush these into place that leaves enough to finish it off by hand for final tightening. You need a fair bit of pressure on the tool to keep in place and flush to the surface. My impact has the digital display to set the force for auto shut off. Too much you have the risk of the nut spinning in the hole .

There is ALOT of pressure on the washers welded to the socket, both sides bent a bit- i added thicker washers and they still bent somewhat - more on the cut end where the socket wall is thinner. i may redesign if i find an equivalent thicker wall tube.

First two are set, I'll pick up some rings from the wrecker. Now I know what all the excitement is about for these things.
 

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Patrick of M

2005 T1N 2500 (NA spec)
What exactly is the difference between a popnut /bulbnut/rivnut?
I just use a nice strong bolt and equally strong nut plus 2 washers to install rivnuts. Kind of like n this link but 2 washers so the nut has less resistant forces. With a ratcheted closed end wrench it is pretty quick work. I guess if I had hundreds to install I might get the tool (more like if I had a job where I had to do this all the time, I could install 100 manually like this easily ), otherwise this method serves.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=I6H6wr7fJYo

P.S. using this technique high grade bolt and nut I can install M12 rivnuts easily without a special $$ tool.

As far a finding rivnuts, my local fastener guy did not have M10 and M12 rivnuts so I ordered them from Ali, took awhile but they appeared to be good quality when I got them. Ali also had stainless reasonably priced. I’ll attach screenshots for longevity.
 

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220629

Well-known member
Thanks for the information. :thumbup:

Not that anyone asked...

Tie downs location and threaded inserts:

I believe that the rear door helper handle fasteners are only bulb nuts set into body metal.

The tie down fastener threaded receivers are not just attached to the body sheetmetal using bulbed nuts. The anchor points are actually re-enforced by small plates.

If your replacement bulbed nuts are just set into body metal, they likely are no longer up to the OEM load rating/standard.

That may not be a factor for your intended use.

:2cents: vic
 
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white whale

Active member
What exactly is the difference between a popnut /bulbnut/rivnut?
I just use a nice strong bolt and equally strong nut plus 2 washers to install rivnuts. Kind of like n this link but 2 washers so the nut has less resistant forces. With a ratcheted closed end wrench it is pretty quick work. I guess if I had hundreds to install I might get the tool (more like if I had a job where I had to do this all the time, I could install 100 manually like this easily ), otherwise this method serves.

.
I paid $20 for 25! Taiwan/Stanley brand. As the orange guy would say CHIIIINNNAA !!! .... maybe they are getting tariffed now for our US friends.
video demo must have been aluminum, i couldn't crush the stainless like that. I does sort of set in a little crooked though.

All the different names I must assume is just branding.
A slick bit of hardware I did not know about until this forum.
 

Patrick of M

2005 T1N 2500 (NA spec)
I paid $20 for 25! Taiwan/Stanley brand. As the orange guy would say CHIIIINNNAA !!! .... maybe they are getting tariffed now for our US friends.
video demo must have been aluminum, i couldn't crush the stainless like that. I does sort of set in a little crooked though.

All the different names I must assume is just branding.
A slick bit of hardware I did not know about until this forum.
Ya, the you tube guy is a bit of a hack. Done properly (straight and fully seated) a bolt will crush the rivnut square and tight. Also his bolt is too long, a shorter bolt is easier to keep steady and square .
 

white whale

Active member
Can't get enough of these...... added a grab bar to the cab wall, didn't really need the P nuts here but good practice plus get to use the torx bolts . Hot gluing in place was key to get 100% line up. This was all the rear crush I could get - proper tool might have crushed it more.

Yes Aqua, the factory studs seem to be reinforced in the back. I could have placed the ring in the first pic to overlap the metal lap joint for more beef. A real heavy pull on a ratchet unit would probably bend the metal a bit.
 

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220629

Well-known member
... A real heavy pull on a ratchet unit would probably bend the metal a bit.
Bend a bit? I'd be more concerned with distort and pull out. The empty distorted hole will resemble a dormant volcano.

Opinion.
Don't put heavy loads on your D rings which are only bulb fastener/pop riveted into the body sheet metal. Your modified fastening method may fail.

:2cents: vic
 

john61ct

Active member
Proper "rivnuts / nutserts" were invented in WWII to hold heavy equipment at arbitrary points against the fuselage of military aircraft, mounting only on the very skimpy skin material.

Obviously going into stout structural members is even better, but you'd be surprised, they have incredible tensile strength and pull-out resistance.

PlusNuts being a later development, even more so.

Using them to fix L-track with a PlusNut at frequent intervals, will hold 2-3 heavy and enthusiastically playful swingers in a hammock, no problem!
 

220629

Well-known member
My concern is that the OEM D rings don't have a number of fasteners like L-track does. The DIY moved/installed D rings are probably fine for most personal use. Shock loads can be high at times though.

...

Using them to fix L-track with a PlusNut at frequent intervals, will hold 2-3 heavy and enthusiastically playful swingers in a hammock, no problem!
That sounds like it belongs in another type of forum.

:cheers: vic
 

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