NCV3 sliding door track removal

Can anyone tell me how the sliding door track is connected to the side of the body on the NCV3? I'm talking about the one that is on the outside of the body, rear of the sliding door. I need to remove the whole track from the body to fix some rust that has developed on the body under the track. I can see one bolt head at the front of the track, but no other bolts are visible along the track. I don't have access to the interior of the body because it was insulated and covered with paneling. I'm hoping there is some trick to get the track off so I don't have to remove interior paneling.

Thanks
 

Vulgar Ninja

New member
Hi, I realize this is an old thread but I am having the same issue.
I've removed the torx and all nuts (except the last nut). The rail has loosened, but has not dislocated itself from the wall.
Do I need to use more force, or is there something I've overlooked?

If I get a reply, thank you so much.
 

Munmile

Member
Hi, I realize this is an old thread but I am having the same issue.
I've removed the torx and all nuts (except the last nut). The rail has loosened, but has not dislocated itself from the wall.
Do I need to use more force, or is there something I've overlooked?

If I get a reply, thank you so much.
Hi
The weight of the door is partially upon the rail so it may not move much. You have to unweight
the bottom rear of the door with a padded scissor jack, then you can push the rail outward and withdraw it to the front.

cheers
Munmile
 

Vulgar Ninja

New member
Thank you Munmile.

I've slid the door to the rear, locking it in place so the weight up front at the curve of the rail should be minimum.
I am working with the rail/track centered on the van wall, not the rail at the ceiling.

I tried tapping the bolt part (I believe you referred to these as studs) with a wooden dowel, but this did not help.
I am trying to solve a rust issue behind the rail, inside the van (water leak).

DC
 

Munmile

Member
Thank you Munmile.

I've slid the door to the rear, locking it in place so the weight up front at the curve of the rail should be minimum.
I am working with the rail/track centered on the van wall, not the rail at the ceiling.

I tried tapping the bolt part (I believe you referred to these as studs) with a wooden dowel, but this did not help.
I am trying to solve a rust issue behind the rail, inside the van (water leak).

DC
The rear door roller operating in the rail is hanging on the rail with considerable weight, you can't do this operation without taking the weight off the door with some sort of jack. You have to be careful that your "Jack" doesn't bend the lower corner of the door by providing a padded cradle for the door edge.

If you have removed all the nuts off the studs, unbolted the main torx bolt and unweighted and shifted the door 1" to the outside, the track will be able to be withdrawn to the front.

Whatever work you are planning on the body rust, Don't try to move the door without keeping the door suspended on the jack and don't plan on moving the van with the door rail removed.

Cheers
Munmile
 

Vulgar Ninja

New member
I have removed all 7 stud nuts and the 1 torx bolt and I have used a scissor jack to suspend the sliding door. That rail just wont detach from the wall. I read somewhere that the rail is attached with some type of adhesive? I will continue searching. Nonetheless, thanks again for your advice on an otherwise very old thread.
 

Munmile

Member
I have removed all 7 stud nuts and the 1 torx bolt and I have used a scissor jack to suspend the sliding door. That rail just wont detach from the wall. I read somewhere that the rail is attached with some type of adhesive? I will continue searching. Nonetheless, thanks again for your advice on an otherwise very old thread.
The rail has a foam gasket applied to the back side to prevent water ingress.
There is no adhesive that I am aware of.
I can't understand why your rail is so stubborn. i would gently lever the rail in the area near the front torx bolt and look for movement. You could also start two of the nuts back on the studs
but not tighten them and the push on the studs from the inside with a piece of wood to see where the rail is hanging up.

Good luck
Munmile
 

mike01001

Member
At the forward part of the step is a grey piece of molding held on with two torx screws. If you have not removed it there is a screw under that. That plastic step is very durable and takes considerable force to break it. I've removed it a few times without much effort provided all screws are removed. I would also suggest using some type of thread sealant when replacing the screws as water can get up from the under-body and can make future screw removal difficult.
 
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Munmile

Member
Hi All,

In the process of fitting a black painted rail to my 2018 144" Cargo I discovered two neat things: First, it seems you can order a black rail from the factory parts bin because that's what I got with PN: A 906 766 07 37. Second, using a 1" wide, 20' ratchet strap with hooks on each end and an eye bolt I was able to switch out the rails in under 30 minutes by myself. As can be seen in the pics, the object of the strap was to unweight the sliding door allowing the rail to be R&R'ed.
After removing the M6 flanged nuts from the inside and removing the T30 torx screw from the forward end of the rail, the unweighted door/rail can be propped out by several inches with a roll of cloth between the door and the body to allow room for removal and reinstallation. The plastic
piece at the back end of the rail must be removed to allow the door roller to exit the rail. I used an eye bolt with a long thread and adjusted the nuts to provide a fine adjust of the ratchet positioning such that the door was floating nicely in the rail before attempting to space out the door and withdraw the rail. Also added the trim piece for a finished look at the back of the rail groove.

cheers
Munmile











https://sprinter-source.com/forum/a...nt.php?attachmentid=103499&stc=1&d=1541644448
 

Attachments

ptheland

2013 144" low top Passgr
So you put the strap over the top of the car and tied it down to the wheel on the opposite side of the van? I'm not sure I'm understanding that part from the pictures - there's no real overall pic of the setup.
 

Munmile

Member
So you put the strap over the top of the car and tied it down to the wheel on the opposite side of the van? I'm not sure I'm understanding that part from the pictures - there's no real overall pic of the setup.

Yes strap over the top, down to the wheel for attachment.
Sorry no pics of the strap going all the way over but you've got the drift.

Cheers
Munmile
 

ptheland

2013 144" low top Passgr
Yes strap over the top, down to the wheel for attachment.
Sorry no pics of the strap going all the way over but you've got the drift.
Thanks for the clarification. It's very clever in that you don't need to worry about balancing the door on some kind of jack at the bottom. Just have to keep it from swinging around. I might be able to put the idea to use on a stubborn minivan sliding door.
 

Munmile

Member
Did you spray paint the rail?
If so How has it held up?
I was considering powder coating but the turnaround is about a week. Can’t leave to door open for a week...

I bought a black powder coated rail from Mercedes, A 906 766 07 37.
Swapped rails very quickly using the method shown earlier in the thread.

cheers
Munmile
 

Mickyfin

Member
Hi All,

In the process of fitting a black painted rail to my 2018 144" Cargo I discovered two neat things: First, it seems you can order a black rail from the factory parts bin because that's what I got with PN: A 906 766 07 37. Second, using a 1" wide, 20' ratchet strap with hooks on each end and an eye bolt I was able to switch out the rails in under 30 minutes by myself. As can be seen in the pics, the object of the strap was to unweight the sliding door allowing the rail to be R&R'ed.
After removing the M6 flanged nuts from the inside and removing the T30 torx screw from the forward end of the rail, the unweighted door/rail can be propped out by several inches with a roll of cloth between the door and the body to allow room for removal and reinstallation. The plastic
piece at the back end of the rail must be removed to allow the door roller to exit the rail. I used an eye bolt with a long thread and adjusted the nuts to provide a fine adjust of the ratchet positioning such that the door was floating nicely in the rail before attempting to space out the door and withdraw the rail. Also added the trim piece for a finished look at the back of the rail groove.

cheers
Munmile











https://sprinter-source.com/forum/a...nt.php?attachmentid=103499&stc=1&d=1541644448
Superb, I think I will go this route once I have sourced a 170" wheel back rail from the stealers, unless it works out cheaper to powder coat myself.

Anyone know the part number of the black rail for the LWB 170" Sprinter, our are they the same?
 

Munmile

Member
Superb, I think I will go this route once I have sourced a 170" wheel back rail from the stealers, unless it works out cheaper to powder coat myself.

Anyone know the part number of the black rail for the LWB 170" Sprinter, our are they the same?
They are the same

Munmile
 

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