KISAE DMT1230 Solar + Alternator Charge controller details

M

markxengineering

Active member
I am using the 1250 (for B2B only, I have separate controller for solar due to my panel voltage being too high). I am using the ignition start and manual override, both features work fine to turn the charging on. Turning off is the hassle, when I want to prevent B2B charging and use Solar only. This is 95% of my use. In order to get what I needed, I took the 1250 apart, pulled out the on/off toggle switch, and relocated it to my center console, where it belongs. The on/off switch comes by default in a ridiculous location which is inaccessible without removing two screws and sticking fingers near live wires. Probably so they can sell more of their "remote control" kits someday. The kits are not available yet.

Other than that, I'm happy, it sends 50+ amps into my house bank and it's easy to set up/customize.
 
9

96r50

Member
brownvan said:
Just following up on this post to see if any owners of the Kisae DMT1230 are using the Ignition-Start/Manual-Override/Voltage-Sense-Override feature?
Click to expand...
I have a DMT1250 in our van (OM651 I4) and I hooked up the ignition sense wire to the D+ terminal today after a few weeks without it. Based on what I have read here about the "smart alternator" that is present on the I4 it seemed that the ignition sense wire is a good idea to keep the DMT charging at all times while the engine is on.
 
brownvan

brownvan

2017 4X4 HR 144"
I haven't done the switch input to the Ignition-Start/Manual-Override/Voltage-Sense-Override input yet. From what I can tell all the feature does is lower the voltage thresholds for enabling charging. Best I can tell, the charger works fine without it although I haven't continuously monitored the charger status on long drives to see if it is always charging. Do the diesel motors have a smart alternator that fluctuates the voltage output based on the starter battery?

markxengineering said:
I am using the 1250 (for B2B only, I have separate controller for solar due to my panel voltage being too high). I am using the ignition start and manual override, both features work fine to turn the charging on. Turning off is the hassle, when I want to prevent B2B charging and use Solar only. This is 95% of my use. In order to get what I needed, I took the 1250 apart, pulled out the on/off toggle switch, and relocated it to my center console, where it belongs. The on/off switch comes by default in a ridiculous location which is inaccessible without removing two screws and sticking fingers near live wires. Probably so they can sell more of their "remote control" kits someday. The kits are not available yet.

Other than that, I'm happy, it sends 50+ amps into my house bank and it's easy to set up/customize.
Click to expand...
 
autostaretx

autostaretx

Erratic Member
brownvan said:
I haven't done the switch input to the Ignition-Start/Manual-Override/Voltage-Sense-Override input yet. From what I can tell all the feature does is lower the voltage thresholds for enabling charging. Best I can tell, the charger works fine without it although I haven't continuously monitored the charger status on long drives to see if it is always charging. Do the diesel motors have a smart alternator that fluctuates the voltage output based on the starter battery?
Click to expand...
It would help if you put your Sprinter's year and engine in (for example) your signature block...

That said, digging back through your posts, i think you have a 2017.
If it has the 6-cylinder engine, it's a moderately simple alternator set-up (always charging).
If it has the 4-cylinder, then it's a LINbus-controlled alternator, and may not even bother to charge the battery at times.

Even the older T1N models (much simpler) see the charging voltage drop from 14.2 or so to 13.6-ish after a short period of driving. I would expect the 6-cylinder NCV3 to operate like that.

Another handy use for a ScanGauge: easily watch the system voltage as you drive along...

--dick
 
D

ddunaway

Active member
96r50 said:
I have a DMT1250 in our van (OM651 I4) and I hooked up the ignition sense wire to the D+ terminal today after a few weeks without it. Based on what I have read here about the "smart alternator" that is present on the I4 it seemed that the ignition sense wire is a good idea to keep the DMT charging at all times while the engine is on.
Click to expand...
So the 1250 (50A) version is finally out......seems like a great option.......20A extra seems to be a lot more attractive!
 
9

96r50

Member
ddunaway said:
So the 1250 (50A) version is finally out......seems like a great option.......20A extra seems to be a lot more attractive!
Click to expand...


Yup, I got mine a little while back from DonRowe.com. I have mine set to 40A maximum and it’s been working great for the last few weeks it’s been installed.
 
B

brucerpeterson

New member
I designed the electrical for my daughter's 2007 Sprinter van conversion and was attracted to the Kisae 1230 since it seemed to offer a couple of nice features: it would intelligently charge the house batteries when using the alternator as its source, and (according to conversations with Ricardo at Kisae) it would eliminate the need for an ACR since you could run the D+ wire to the charge controller and it would not draw any charge if D+ was low. This seems to be totally false. Since going live with the electrical, the starter battery has gone dead twice. Unfortunately I am on vacation now and have not been able to personally look at what's going on but I'm pretty sure that the reason is that the 1230 does actually draw some current from the starter battery so that if the van sits for a while without running, the starter battery can get run down. I've tried to contact Ricardo by email twice and he's been maintaining radio silence. I'm not very encouraged by this. Also, previously in this thread, he seems to have acknowledged that you need to put in an ACR with the 1230 and may not even be able to use the feature of running the alternator wire into the CH3 input of the 1230 so that it can intelligently charge the house batteries. So it appears that both of the reasons that I chose for buying the 1230 turn out to be false or incorrect. I'm still hoping to hear from Ricardo or someone else at Kisae but I'm beginning to lose hope at this point. Does anyone have any particular advice they could give me? At this point my main areas of interest/concern are as follows:

1. (Absolutely critical) Don't allow any house loads (or the charge controller itself) to deplete the starter battery. I thought the 1230 did that but apparently not.
2. (Nice to have) Be able to charge the house batteries from the alternator. One of the reasons I bought the 1230.
3. (Also nice to have but should not be essential it 1. above is met). Be able to charge the starter battery from the solar.
4. (Also nice to have but should not be needed if 1. above is met). Provide a way to parallel the house and starter batteries together in case the starter battery is low.

Thanks for any help, thoughts or advice.

Bruce
 
9

96r50

Member
brucerpeterson said:
I designed the electrical for my daughter's 2007 Sprinter van conversion and was attracted to the Kisae 1230 since it seemed to offer a couple of nice features: it would intelligently charge the house batteries when using the alternator as its source, and (according to conversations with Ricardo at Kisae) it would eliminate the need for an ACR since you could run the D+ wire to the charge controller and it would not draw any charge if D+ was low. This seems to be totally false. Since going live with the electrical, the starter battery has gone dead twice. Unfortunately I am on vacation now and have not been able to personally look at what's going on but I'm pretty sure that the reason is that the 1230 does actually draw some current from the starter battery so that if the van sits for a while without running, the starter battery can get run down. I've tried to contact Ricardo by email twice and he's been maintaining radio silence. I'm not very encouraged by this. Also, previously in this thread, he seems to have acknowledged that you need to put in an ACR with the 1230 and may not even be able to use the feature of running the alternator wire into the CH3 input of the 1230 so that it can intelligently charge the house batteries. So it appears that both of the reasons that I chose for buying the 1230 turn out to be false or incorrect. I'm still hoping to hear from Ricardo or someone else at Kisae but I'm beginning to lose hope at this point. Does anyone have any particular advice they could give me? At this point my main areas of interest/concern are as follows:

1. (Absolutely critical) Don't allow any house loads (or the charge controller itself) to deplete the starter battery. I thought the 1230 did that but apparently not.
2. (Nice to have) Be able to charge the house batteries from the alternator. One of the reasons I bought the 1230.
3. (Also nice to have but should not be essential it 1. above is met). Be able to charge the starter battery from the solar.
4. (Also nice to have but should not be needed if 1. above is met). Provide a way to parallel the house and starter batteries together in case the starter battery is low.

Thanks for any help, thoughts or advice.

Bruce
Click to expand...


Hey Bruce,

I have the DMT1250 but it is the same unit other than the higher amp rating. I have mine installed in my van with the I4 which has the “smart” alternator so I have the ignition sense wire connected to the D+ terminal. I’ll see if I can help with your questions

1. I have a Victron Battery Protect 100 in the supply line from the starter battery to the DMT. It is set up to only connect when the engine is running, using a signal wire from the D+ terminal. I did this from the get go as I assumed that the DMT could continue to charge the house battery if the starter battery resting voltage was above the DMT’s start up voltage of 13.2V. It may have been totally unnecessary but for the $50 the BP100 cost the peace of mind was worth it.

2. You can. That’s all mine has been doing for the last 9 months. The starter battery connects to CH3 and the house battery connects to CH1 and the house battery charges when the engine is running. Are you experiencing something different?

3. The DMT isn’t designed this way unfortunately. It would be nice though.

4. Same as 3. You’re talking a lot of amps moving at one time though (way more than the 30A or 50A the device is rated for) so I don’t see how they would have been able to include that. You could set it up with a bit more heavy cable and a manual Blue Sea switch if you wanted.

Hope that helps!
 
GSWatson

GSWatson

2013 144
Hi All -

I’m looking at the Kisae 30a vs the CTEK D250s. I have the CTEK on my van and am happy with it, but just want to check all options for the next build.

Are those who are using the Kisae still happy with it?


Cheers,
Greg
 
brownvan

brownvan

2017 4X4 HR 144"
GSWatson said:
Hi All -

I’m looking at the Kisae 30a vs the CTEK D250s. I have the CTEK on my van and am happy with it, but just want to check all options for the next build.

Are those who are using the Kisae still happy with it?


Cheers,
Greg
Click to expand...
Yep the 1230 is still working well
 
Built.Vans

Built.Vans

2024 170 AWD
Hi brownvan,

I am in the process of designing my electrical system. I love the idea of these duel input dc-dc battery chargers i.e. Redarc BCDC, Kisae DMT, etc. I plan on having 2 100W solar panels in series but would like the back up plan of having the dc-dc charger as well. I have been in contact with Redarc about hooking up the ignition wire as I have a "18 Sprinter w/ variable voltage alternator. I am having a hard time getting a complete answer about where to wire that ignition wire and I was hoping someone on this forum might have a clear answer (photos would be great too!)

Do you have you 1230 hooked up an ignition source? I was told some people use a space in the Sprinter fuse block?

Thanks for any additional info you might be able to provide! :rad:
 
autostaretx

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Under the driver's seat you will find the "EK1 terminal strip" ... it has "D+" (alternator running) and "Ignition On" posts available.

It looks like this (under a plastic flip-cover):



and you find it here (item (4)):




I would lean towards using the "D+" post, since it avoids joining the systems too early (during glow plug warm-up, for example).

--dick
 
A

azur

New member
Hello, trying to figure out how/where to connect the negative from the DMT to the starter battery.
i have a 170, my house batteries are in the back, Planning to have the DMT close by.
I tried to unscrew the post of the disconnect on the firewall (by the accelerator pedal). Thinking it would be a good ground to hook up. I Couldn't unscrew it, can it be unscrewed?
Should I not bother going to the starter battery and create a ground near the DMT?

Regards,
 
brownvan

brownvan

2017 4X4 HR 144"
Cole Hersee 24612-10-BX is a good relay to put in between the starter battery and the Kisae on the positive leg, after the 50A fuse. It is triggered by the D+ line, when the engine is running, and I've added a toggle switch inline on the coil side of the relay so I can disable charging from the van if needed. This ensures that the charger won't continue to "sip" off the starter battery after I turn off the ignition.
 
H

H.Mont

Member
brownvan said:
Cole Hersee 24612-10-BX is a good relay to put in between the starter battery and the Kisae on the positive leg, after the 50A fuse. It is triggered by the D+ line, when the engine is running, and I've added a toggle switch inline on the coil side of the relay so I can disable charging from the van if needed. This ensures that the charger won't continue to "sip" off the starter battery after I turn off the ignition.
Click to expand...
Doesn't the relay disable the sipping. Why the switch? You wouldn't have a wiring diagram or images of this to share by any chance? I am running the DMT1250 under my seat and have it wired to the starter battery and just got my solar installed and wired. So far I have not attached to the D+ terminal and all seems fine, but am curious how to best do it.
 
brownvan

brownvan

2017 4X4 HR 144"
There is some background info on why I added this relay in this post on a separate/related thread:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/61758/#post-695159
I would really prefer to have zero draw by the Kisae off the starter battery when the motor is not running. The balancing that occurs after turning the ignition off (i.e. "sipping" = float charging off the starter battery) doesn't really give a huge benefit in the big picture and I'd rather disconnect instead of pull down the starter battery every time I turn off the motor. I don't have an updated schematic at this time but I basically added the Cole Hersee inline on the positive leg from the starter battery, before the Kisae. The coil side of the relay is connected to D+ and ground. The D+ line also has an inline fuse and inline toggle switch.
 
brownvan

brownvan

2017 4X4 HR 144"
Is there some sort of discrete & simple DC-DC trickle charge device to wire between my house battery and starter battery so that the starter battery gets charged/tended by the house battery, preferably at night or when not driving (basically when I don't have current flowing from the solar or alternator into the house battery)??
The purpose is to top off the starter battery from longterm parasitic drain when parked for 3-4 weeks and not being driven regularly.
Was also thinking about one of those temporary solar panel to put on the dash and plug in when the starter needs tending.
 
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