Pumpkinass
New member
I'm assuming most of you have watched this?.. https://youtu.be/WJdfyh7bnjo
Convenience Modifications to Unity
- Thread starter Widman
- Start date
Here are photos of the new table. The wood is beech with a white wash to closely match the existing interior. The "Wizard of Wood" did a good job.
Attachments
joeframer44
2014 Unity MB/U-lounge
Has anyone upgraded their u-lounge dinette table post, base and table mount from the stock 2 3/8" to the newer 2 7/8" kit used on newer models (ours is a 2014 Unity MB)? The issue is cutting a 3 1/2" dia. hole in the floor of the slide so as to recess the new base, and if it will still clear the base floor. We added a locking table mount to our existing table top which prevents the spinning, but the locked top now adds a lot of torque to the post and sometimes further locks the post into the base making it difficult to twist off.
Joe K.
2014 Unity MB
Joe K.
2014 Unity MB
J&B
2015.5 UnityMB U-Lounge
Joe - We have the 2015.5 UnityMB with the U-Lounge/Dinette table and we replaced the factory hardware that is mounted under the table and fits on to the locking pedestal post. It is the Springfield Tac-Lock Swivel Pivot Trac-Lock. It slides onto the pedestal and we just tighten the screw and it no longer swivels when we bump it or are driving down the road. We first mount the pedestal in the base plate and turn it untill it is tight. Next we place the table top onto the pedestal and lock it down. No twisting required. The pedestal has already been torqued tight prior to placing the table in position. There is a small button on the base plate that I push down when we need to remove the table pedestal for storage. First I remove the table top and next I take my foot and step on the plate button and at the same time I turn the pedestal post until it comes loose. Maybe the 2014 UnityMB has different hardware? J&B
rdvan@sbcglobal.net
2017 Unity MB
J&B or anyone,
I have a 2014 Unity MB. The base plate for the table sticks up about 1" (one inch) off the floor and has a little black button you push with your foot to unlock and unscrew to remove the pedestal. I've been told they changed the pedestal base on the latest models to a more flush pedestal and that on the new MB model you can even get a base plate in front of the captain chairs and either a new table top or use the normal table top giving you two table options. Anyone familiar with this?
R. D. Vanderslice
2014 Unity MB
Jerry&Debbie
Member
R.D.,
We have this option on our 2016 MB. I added a few pictures in our profile to show the base plate and the table in both orientations. Hopefully, this is a link to the album: http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/album.php?albumid=409
joeframer44
2014 Unity MB/U-lounge
Thanks for the replies. My issue is that the 2 3/8 dia post and corresponding base and table mount are still too wobbly even with the new Springfield locking table mount and it adds too much torque and tightens the post if you bump it so much that it is really difficult to unscrew it now. So I am wondering if the newer 2 7/8 dia fluted post and corresponding base and locking table mount is more stable. And as the newer base is recessed into the floor of the slide, will it work on my 2014?
Thanks.
Joe K.
2014 Unity MB
Thanks.
Joe K.
2014 Unity MB
Yes, this is an issue. I had all of my shades changed out at the MCD factory this year. The factory installer gave me some interesting choices for the kitchen shade. Putting a 2 shade (screen&blackout) is too much for this space. He installed just the blackout shade at the kitchen location. Even with just the blackout shade installed the valence has to be slightly tilted out for fit. Works well and no fires yet...Okay, an update to installing MCDs in place of the venetian blind in the kitchen. The valance is so narrow that it is impossible to snap the MCD blinds into their bracket with the valance fastened to the wall. The only choice is to unmount the valance from the wall, snap the MCDs into the supplied and mounted brackets, and then install the whole thing--valance and MCD shade--back on the wall. Trouble is, the "ell" brackets are covered up by the MCD shade and thus it is impossible to mount the whole thing back the way it was. Now what? Well, tomorrow, I will raise the whole unit up about 4 inches and attach the top of the valance/MCD to the bottom of the cabinet above the sink by drilling through the cabinet and fastening with screws through the bottom shelf of cabinet. Not what I wanted, but sturdy and a good fit. Arrgh. Nothing is easy.
When you pry the cutting board off is the "backside" of the sink cover surface polished? This sounds like a great idea as the cover is simply too heavy with that cutting board on it.
unity
When you pry the cutting board off is the "backside" of the sink cover surface polished? This sounds like a great idea as the cover is simply too heavy with that cutting board on it.
SSTraveler
2014 LTV Unity Murphy Bed
I was tired of my shower dribbling for long periods after a shower so I changed out the vacuum breaker (small plastic fitting between the shower faucet body and shower hose) for a D Spud and I also installed a cutoff valve near the shower head so I don't have to re-adjust the water temperature when I want to turn the water off and on during a shower. The D Spud has a hole twice as big as the vacuum breaker so it also increases water flow/pressure at the shower head. Here are the items I purchased from Amazon,
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BGOCMU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VCL5DRG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00.
The install takes 3 minutes, super easy. No plumbers tape needed for the D Spud, but I used some for the cutoff valve.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BGOCMU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VCL5DRG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00.
The install takes 3 minutes, super easy. No plumbers tape needed for the D Spud, but I used some for the cutoff valve.
csmithgator
Member
The black sewer pipe located on back underside of 2012 Unity blocks rear driver's outside storage compartment door from closing when flex sewer hose (I've tried several different hoses) is attached for draining, has anyone found a modification/solution that allows storage compartment door to be closed and latched when flex sewer hose is attached?
Rick-O-Sha
New member
Re: unity
I marked up the back, when prying off, but was able to sand/polish the back.
I marked up the back, when prying off, but was able to sand/polish the back.
SSTraveler
2014 LTV Unity Murphy Bed
I just unscrewed one side of the pipe hanger and put a piece of wood spacer the size needed to create the clearance I wanted for screwing on the cap or having a sewer hose connected with the panel door closed and the I took a 2" machine bolt, lock washer and washer to secure the hanger back.
SSTraveler
2014 LTV Unity Murphy Bed
I can't see the rear view camera or side camera views when I am driving on the Kenwood's 6" screen, which is not angled toward the driver. I would like to see the rear view camera on all the time while I am driving, but that split screen mode on the Kenwood isn't helpful because it makes the map and rear view camera image even smaller. So I bought this new Pyle 10" monitor off ebay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/262053416931?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT and installed it yesterday. It was relatively easy I just used a plastic trim tool to pry off the trim plate around the Kenwood. Then I used the trim tool to pry off the entire front face piece from the center console. Then I removed 4 small screws around the head unit and it slid out. You have to stick your hand through the opening below the vent selector to giggle the wire harnesses to get the unit to come out enough for you to access the plugs on the back. I unplugged the main group of wires on the back right side as you look at the back and spliced the Pyle Monitor red wire to the red wire which is the ignition switch hot and then to the black to the black which is the ground. Then on the top left hand side as you face the back, I unplugged the white RCA plug which is the input from the rear camera and side view cameras. I plugged this white cable into the V2IN on the Pyle Monitor (video 2 input, it was the plug mate to the white male RCA plug) and that's it. Route the Pyle Monitor cable to the location for the monitor, button things up and your done. For now I am putting it on the dash, but it's so feather light that I may attach it to my rear view mirror. The Pyle screen displays the rear camera view as the primary and switches to either side view camera when you engage the turn signal, then switches back to the rear camera view when turn signal clicks off. As you can see in the last picture, you see the new Pyle monitor clearly, while you can't see the Kenwood screen. Fortunately, I don't have to worry about seeing the Kenwood screen now, since navigation and entertainment is the job of my co-pilot. This new Pyle Monitor helps me focus on driving even better now. 
Attachments
alichty
2014 LTV Unity TB
I decided to rework parts of the galley starting with the drawers. I may do a lot more with these yet but for starters I made up some dividers for the top drawer using 3/8" Baltic plywood which appears to be an exact match for what LTV used to begin with:
The second focus was to make up a proper knife block that would be easy to work with on the road so I decided to make the second drawer into a cutlery tray:
In this case I used solid maple stock that is fastened down to a piece of 1/2" MDF. Each of the knife slots has a 3/8" diameter hole about 1/4" deep drilled into the side near the handle end and 3/8" rare earth magnets are epoxied in to insure that the knives do not move during travel. I keep my knives pretty sharp and this is a much better way for them to travel without harming the edge.
The lower drawers are nice and deep but that typically means a deeper pile to dig through to find what you want. I tried an experiment for the first deep drawer that seems to be working pretty well - n this case I took a couple of expanding rods and ran them the length of the drawer so I could stack two drawer bins inside:
bottom layer:
I plan on trying to make a new double tier drawer this summer in my woodshop to completely replace the LTV drawer with one that has two levels along the lines of this except without all of the small dividers:
http://st.hzcdn.com/simgs/0401b540034bf558_4-5722/contemporary-kitchen-drawer-organizers.jpg
The second focus was to make up a proper knife block that would be easy to work with on the road so I decided to make the second drawer into a cutlery tray:
In this case I used solid maple stock that is fastened down to a piece of 1/2" MDF. Each of the knife slots has a 3/8" diameter hole about 1/4" deep drilled into the side near the handle end and 3/8" rare earth magnets are epoxied in to insure that the knives do not move during travel. I keep my knives pretty sharp and this is a much better way for them to travel without harming the edge.
The lower drawers are nice and deep but that typically means a deeper pile to dig through to find what you want. I tried an experiment for the first deep drawer that seems to be working pretty well - n this case I took a couple of expanding rods and ran them the length of the drawer so I could stack two drawer bins inside:
bottom layer:
I plan on trying to make a new double tier drawer this summer in my woodshop to completely replace the LTV drawer with one that has two levels along the lines of this except without all of the small dividers:
http://st.hzcdn.com/simgs/0401b540034bf558_4-5722/contemporary-kitchen-drawer-organizers.jpg
Eugene Rider
2016 Unity TB
It would be so easy to make two or three or 10 of these. I'll take a set. Wonderful work.
alichty
2014 LTV Unity TB
The dividers were a piece of cake but the knife block wasn't quite as straightforward since I wasn't working from any previous plans or even a suggestion of how to do this for a mobile galley like we have.
For the lower drawers I will need to build a new drawer box to begin with since the layered sliders require the back of the drawer to be two pieces. The drawer boxes in our RVs are very simple construction - 3/8" Baltic Birch plywood (or 1 cm depending on where you are) with simple butt joints using lots of glue and some crown staples. Replacing these won't be all that hard if you have made drawers before. Reuse the drawer fronts and it will look like the factory install.
SSTraveler
2014 LTV Unity Murphy Bed
I installed this file holder from Office Depot on the wall between the window and refrigerator to use as my charging station. It holds my tablets, phones, or anything that needs charging. I use the plug on the bottom of the cabinet in the corner next light switch to plug in my Belkin multi-plug 120v and usb, http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-3-Outl...=1460231949&sr=8-1&keywords=belkin+multi+plug, to support all my charging cords. I also stuck these spice bottle clips up to increase my spice rack, http://www.amazon.com/Spice-Clip-St...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00. I used one to keep my soap dispenser in place as well. I used 3M Adhesion promoter to make sure they stick to the wall good, http://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-94-...60231785&sr=8-5&keywords=3m+adhesion+promoter.
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