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Old 05-04-2009, 08:59 PM   #11
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

I love the cardboard, fastener holding trick. It's genius!

-Jon
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Old 05-04-2009, 09:33 PM   #12
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Jon,
Thanks. Where it really works well is for V8 heads and such. I use cardboard holders to keep the bolts and push rods in order so they return to the same place. I don't like mixing parts up if it can be avoided because you never know if it might bite you.

Oh.......and it's cheap too. AP
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Originally Posted by jdcaples View Post
I love the cardboard, fastener holding trick. It's genius!

-Jon
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Old 05-07-2009, 11:53 PM   #13
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
Jon,
Thanks. Where it really works well is for V8 heads and such. I use cardboard holders to keep the bolts and push rods in order so they return to the same place. I don't like mixing parts up if it can be avoided because you never know if it might bite you.

Oh.......and it's cheap too. AP
yea great idea...............ever found a bolt when the job is finished
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Old 05-08-2009, 03:53 AM   #14
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxextz View Post
yea great idea...............ever found a bolt when the job is finished
Ha ha, I think I can build a small car with the bolts left over from different cars over the year.
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Old 01-10-2010, 12:13 AM   #15
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Thanks for the great writeup. I put a new waterpump in my friend's 2005 sprinter today and your info helped a ton.

Good idea on the cardboard bolt holder. I do something similar but use the new water
pump to hold the bolts in the right place, then once the old part is out I move the bolts over to keep them organized.

Also I definitely recommend taking the pump off with the hose
manifold still attached. Really easy that way.

Thanks again for the information!!
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Old 02-08-2010, 03:00 AM   #16
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

I just installed a new water pump on my 2003. Took 3-1/2 hours, never could have done it that quickly without these awesome instructions. Amazingly enough, I have only 3 radiator clips AND bottom right bracket on my grill is broken too. Unbeleivable! Thanks again, great help.
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Old 02-20-2010, 10:21 PM   #17
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Sivicman,
I tried to PM reply to your question.

"sivicman has chosen not to receive private messages or may not be allowed to receive private messages. Therefore you may not send your message to him/her."

To receive PM's you should remove your PM block.

The deep well sockets I used for the pump change were actually Torx type 3/8" drive deep well from Harbor Freight. I bought them on sale. I have learned to carry both the Torx socket type (E-Torx for "external?) and inside type with me. Without them I feel you are basically screwed for most Sprinter repair dis-assembly. Hope this does some good. vic
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Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
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16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 02-19-2011 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 10-03-2010, 02:45 PM   #18
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

The original water pump on my '02 (216k) was leaking so I replaced it yesterday. Also replaced the original idler pulleys and the tensioner while I was at it. Wasn't easy to work around the plastic fuel lines under the high pressure pump (probably not the same on the 647 pump). I was reluctant to try and flex them a lot worried that they might be brittle and crack. Also, 2 of the 5, 6mm torx screws securing the water pump wouldn't tighten on assembly. Don't know why they wouldn't tighten (thicker gasket than OEM, maybe thicker water pump flange?), but the OEM screws appear to be designed to be self-tapping and are tapered at the end. Anyway, I was lucky enough to have 2, 6mm hex-head cap screws that would tighten in the same holes, even though they were a mm or so shorter. I was afraid I might strip the threads in the aluminum timing case cover, so I didn't tighten the total 9 screws securing the water pump to the specified torque, just to a "feel good" level. Hopefully, it won't leak. I've run across this problem before, so it looks like I'll be investing in a helicoil kit.
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:30 PM   #19
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

I tried to add this edit to my first post, but being I'm so long winded I had hit the character number limit. So here's the comment which only the tenacious people who read every post down to here will see. Have fun.

2011/02/19 edit: A friend who followed my procedure for a pump change said he did remove the fan shroud. (I didn't.) He said it came out easily and made things much more accessible. He may have been doing an OM612 (NAFTA 2001 - 2003) engine water pump? If it was an OM612 he never indicated that the procedure I outlined was very much different on that engine from my 2004 OM647. FWIW. vic
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2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >183,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:26 AM   #20
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Hello Guys, I am new here. Actually this is my first post. I work for a company that has tons of these Sprinters and I have done plenty of these water pump jobs. I would like to commend you all for taking on this task and sharing your info for others to use.

In the spirit of sharing, I would like to offer some tricks I have found to make it much easier experience and much faster.

First off, realize that you are going to get in deep with this job. It is no joke. Once you have that mindset, here we go.

Remove the core support front bracket entirely. Once you have it turned upside down, you can remove the cable easily and set the entire assembly to the side. This goes for the turbo heat shield as well. Only three mounting hardware. One bolt and two nuts.

Remove both headlights, this enables much more room to get at hoses and such. I simply unscrew them and let them hang over the side.

Remove the front bumper. This is much easier than you think. Remove the front bumper license plate bracket and the two push pins at the corners. The bumper will pull out. It is only a plastic fasad to look like a bumper. Caution, there is a Air temp sensor located behind the plate. Again, two plate bolts, and two plastic push pins. set the bumper to the side.

Now here is the best part. remove the lower radiator hose and the smaller hose that goes to the pipe coming off the water pump.
From down below, there are two transmission cooler lines. You need a 19mm and 17mm.
with these four points removed, up front, completely remove the cooling fan. Take it aside.
The two nuts the bottom top mounts at the radiator and the electrical connection. Remove both top radiator hoses, and be sure the system completely rocks back and forth.

At this point, you will be able to lift the entire assembly up over the frame section and open the radiator like a door to the left. I would support it some how, but some people will not.
You then have complete frontal access to the fan and front of engine. Now we put them on a rack, so I bring them up to standing height, but I have done them in the steam cleaning rack on the floor, a little harder, but still not that bad.

I highly recommend you changing the belt and tensioner while you are in there. I have had several tensioner failures, and this entire process must be done to replace it as well. May cost you a little more up front, but a lot of headaches down the road. Do yourself a favor and take a picture of the belt before you remove it. This will help in the reassembly process, as for routing.

WasherBottleBeltRoute.jpg

as for the removal and install of the water pump. We only use OEM parts, so I am not familiar with the aftermarket items, and gaskets being thicker. The bolts are all different sizes, but only work one way due to different lengths. I remove the water pump and pipe together. Swap it out on the bench and reuse the metal gasket it has. Never had any leaks. One more thing I may have missed, but realize the OEM water pump comes with no threads on the hole for the idler pulley. I use to thread some in using a tap. Now I simply throw the bolt on the end of a 3/8 impact and ram them in. Saves plenty of time.
As long as I'm editing... NEVER TAP THAT BOLT. It is a thread forming trilobular design fastener. Be cautious with an impact tool.

I use no silicone of any kind anywhere, all gaskets get applied dry. And as for coolant, as long as it is "Fully Formulated" or Orange or Pink, you will be fine.
As long as I'm editing... Use HOAT coolant only. NAPA sourced Prestone G05 is one option.

I do this on a monthly basis, so if you guys have any questions, feel free to PM me. I can supply you with OEM part numbers to take to the dealer if needed and more little tricks here and there.

As for the tensioner, I have found that they strip very easily, so be careful! I also found that if you do strip the tensioner mounting bolt on the driver's side, you can drill all the way thru and install a bolt that is long enough to through bolt it with bolt and nut.


Re assembly is in the reverse order and I can confirm everything the people prior to me have said. This is only to share a little bit of time saving tactics and to make the job easier. https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=58962

Have fun, enjoy! Richard

Quote:
Originally Posted by surlyoldbill View Post
Turns out that I didn't have to drain anything except the coolant; the other hoses are all flexible enough to move quite a ways once the charge air and big coolant hoses are free.

Last edited by hkpierce; 08-28-2017 at 05:43 PM. Reason: Added SOB hose comment & lost belt route pic
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