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Old 12-07-2015, 05:16 PM   #13
Aqua Puttana
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Default Re: Some 2004 Espar Heater Notes

January 19, 2014

Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
I believe that now I have enough information to end my recent obsession with all things Espar in my 2004. (Just my latest obsession of many?)

The Booster heater is working fine. It is wired to pre-heat the engine. I know what specific burner part number will work.
2 seasons of successful operation on my Espar heater since my repairs.

Yesterday I removed my heater for general cleaning. It was smoking out the muffler a bit more than usual at startup. I thought that maybe the screen on the D shaped igniter hole had plugged a bit with soot.

Actually there was little soot. I flushed it well with carburetor cleaner as to not disturb the metering screen assembly and re-assembled the heater. A bit less smoke now on startup, but not as little as I recall before. Maybe my memory is optimistic as to how much smoke there was?

Some comments.

In 2015 I repaired the burner screen which I dug out/damaged. I did that by pushing a bit of asbestos cloth yarn up into where the screen terminated in the fuel supply. The asbestos fiber acts like a wick to meter the fuel down on to a fairly coarse nickel screen which I put over it to hold the fiber in place.

The wick and screen looked fine after 2 seasons. There was a bit of soot that easily flushed off the screen by using carburetor cleaner. I really didn't want to disturb my repair at all in case by dumb luck I hit the Goldilocks Zone "just right" combination when I installed the fibers and screen.

The main burner, glow pin, and flame sensor didn't have any real buildup of soot at all. It all appeared generally clean. I didn't disturb the burner coolant chamber O-ring seal. I was able to re-use the graphite composition burner gasket.

Even though I used anti-seize compounds on the screws, some had corroded to the point of being immovable. The one was on the top cover which protects the heat sensors. I deemed that of no real consequence because my warped cover already needed some sealant anyway.

The other was the short screw which locks the burner to the exhaust port. After trying many different removal methods I just drilled that one out. It also was deemed not worth replacing. The other 3 screws will hold that assembly together well enough.

So... if you live in the ugly road salt Northeast it may be worthwhile to open your heater up for cleaning every 2 seasons or so. That may help with keeping fasteners from seizing up.

The anti-seize which I used on the aluminum intake tube allowed that to be removed without issue. The ss exhaust tube was stuck a bit even after using anti-seize, but came off intact with some patient slight twisting and moving about. (The exhaust pipe retaining screw doesn't line up and hasn't been installed for a couple years now.)

DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >330,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >183,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 01-16-2016 at 01:35 PM.
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