Thread: Nag1 TECH ALERT
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Old 01-08-2008, 02:03 PM   #1
Doktor A (864-623-9110)
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Location: Clemson/Greenville SC
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Default Nag1 TECH ALERT

-Has your Sprinter clocked over 80K miles?
-Does your Sprinter see severe "stop and go" service and clocked 50K miles?

If you answered yes to either question-I recommend you perform this additional procedure during your routine ATF fluid/filter change.

Updated info from Doktor A. Added by AP November 2017.

Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
Unless you have symptoms my recommendation would be to leave things alone. There are possible pitfalls to messing with the conductor plate and cleaning. Even Doktor A backed away from his periodic cleaning recommendation.

If you have no symptoms I would do a TC/pan drain, filter, and refill with proper transmission fluid.

Originally Posted by abittenbinder View Post
Yes! Save the cleaning of the speed sensors and electrical board for serious symptoms only.

Doktor A

-Are you experiencing transmission related malfunction codes and/or symptoms of transmission malfunction despite having proper fluid level?

-Is your dealer recommending a transmission replacement?

If you answer yes to either of the last 2 questions-don't wait. Perform this procedure immediately.

Here's the procedure that has benefited "severe service" delivery fleets and I'm hoping will help group owners avoid needless transmission replacement.

If you answered yes to any of the above questions- I recommend you drop your transmission valve body (or as DC calls it ,"the electro-hydraulic unit"). It's simple to do and I'm recommending dropping it specifically for inspection and cleaning of the 2 circuit board mounted speed sensors.

Here's the procedure-When you have the pan off and the fluid drained (and inspected) and the filter removed-don't throw out the old filter just yet. It's halves can be uncrimped with a channel-lock plier and you can examine the inner filter media for unusual debris and accumulation.

Next -now is a good time to replace your trans elec. connector's socket O-rings since the socket needs to come out for valve body removal. Remove the small heat shield and disconnect the trans. elect connector. Reach into the trans. mounted elec. socket with a 7mm 1/4 drive socket at the end of a short extension-unbolt the retaining bolt and gently pull the socket out of the trans. Have a new socket with o-rings ready for later reassembly-part# is 68021352AA (inexpensive and comes complete with the latest black O-rings).

Now, using the same T-30 Torx bit, you used to remove the pan- loosen all the bolts and remove all but 2 (opposing bolts) holding the valve body in place. Supporting the valve body carefully-remove the last 2 bolts and lower the valve body down and carry it immediately into your surgically clean(?) workshop.

Lay the complete valve body on a clean newspaper- elec side up. Refer to your workshop manual diagrams- the speed sensors are easy to spot(on top) and should be carefully cleaned of accumulated metallic filings(they are strong magnets).

Inspect exposed parts of the circuit board and exterior of the solenoids for heavy accumulation-clean carefully.

If things look really clean- you don't need to go further. Skip down to re-installation.

If there's heavy accumulation of metallic debris you can unbolt(again-the T-30 Torx bit) the solenoid retainers and carefully remove the solenoids. The electrical board can now be unclipped(2 push clips) and separated from the valve body.

Inspect the small filter screens under the 2 regulating solenoids(If you find the screens clogged-I would stop here and seriously consider a transmission overhaul-this is thankfully rare) also inspect the o-rings on the 3 shift solenoids and single TCC lock-up solenoid(yes-part of the RSN gang). The o-rings are NOT avialable as (separate from solenoid) replacement parts from DC but any suspect o-rings can be replaced by visiting the local autoparts store and sorting through their collection of quality viton o-ring drawers.

If the circuit board looks hopelessly contaminated -it is available as a replacement part and is somewhat reasonable in price. It's mostly encased in plastic and cleaning can be tedious.

Reassemble the electro and hyd. portions and follow torque specs(71 in/lbs.) for the solenoid retainers.

Carefully lift the assembled valve body back into the transmission sump and make sure you engage the plastic sliding lever of the selector valve into the detent plate post. Torque the 10 bolts to 71 in./lbs. Install your new connector socket, and your new filter and sump seal. Bolt on the sump and fill as usual (I assume you have also drain the torque converter as per previous post). Photos show-1) The complete valve body. 2)Transmission w/valve body removed. 3)Close-up of speed sensors. 4)Disassembled valve body.5)Close-up of the TCC lock-up solenoid. 2008 Copyright by Doktor A
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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 11-08-2017 at 01:16 PM. Reason: Add recent Doktor A comment. AP
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