Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
If the tank is made from polyethylene, it should be fine up to 200F.
Manufacture says it's "Medium Density Polyethylene (MDPE) Resin"If the tank is made from polyethylene, it should be fine up to 200F.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PolyethyleneManufacture says it's "Medium Density Polyethylene (MDPE) Resin"
That's fine to 200 degrees Fahrenheit?
So you should be fine at 160F.For common commercial grades of medium- and high-density polyethylene the melting point is typically in the range 120 to 180 °C (248 to 356 °F).
Still working on the design. Will have more information soon. Should test this week.Dave,
I would be interested in a hot water kit - or if you decide not to go that way a parts list with links to the parts you use.
Thanks in advance !
Agree about the cost but probably les than $20 difference. I do have two other uses for the hose and radiator fill valve. Use it to fill the freshwater tank that is just inside the slider door and use it to fill the existing shower water tank from the fresh water pump. The 90 degree valve helps prevent water spillage.Dave, a more flexible hose and a sink spray head may sell better than your garden hose and radiator filler and would cost less.
In case you missed this post about the system:Dave,
I would be interested in a hot water kit - or if you decide not to go that way a parts list with links to the parts you use.
Thanks in advance !
I know this posting is old but I'm wondering if you could help me out with where exactly to install a heat exchanger?I have a 60 plate in mine in the location you have been discussing. For on demand I have to have it on high idle to keep good temp for a shower (Or I have have the Espar on if not running the engine).
I have the fresh hot water going into a 10l reservoir under the sink. Then a TMV to the shower. The sink I have at full temp and you need to be careful not to scald yourself. I have been meaning to rig up a one way valve circuit and pump so that I can recycle the 10l reservoir back into the HE continuously. That would give me 10l of piping hot water every time I stop the van.
At the moment I have an auxiliary tap which flows back into the main fresh water tank. So I can siphon off the 10l of cold water in the reservoir and replace it with hot water from the HE, but there is some mixing so its not as hot and I often forget to do it before we stop..
Nice design and thanks for sharing. I'm currently building something similar.Completed the design using the "sprint2freedon" suggested use of a Sous Vide cooking water heater. ... The cooler lid is discarded and replaced with two UHMW covers. One side has holes for the Sous Vide machine and the pump. Other side has two large paper clips to hold the ZipLoc freezer bag to hold the food when cooking. .... No potential water leaks.
...
3. The cooler can be carried to a water source such as a stream, lake or faucet so conversion water does not need to be used for shower water.
4. The cooler without the lid is ideal size for my use as a waste basket.
There are two holes in the top front edge of the cooler. I made a couple of rubber plugs to prevent the lids from sliding off front edge. Back and sides of the cooler prevent them from sliding off at those locations.Nice design and thanks for sharing. I'm currently building something similar.
How is the UHMW (cutting board) lid held onto the cooler?
How does sloshing water filled inside the cooler not leak out between the top of the cooler and cutting board lid?
Thanks!
Did you use an expansion valve or anything similar in this setup?Yeah, a 20 plate, or possibly 10 plate would do 2rpm on demand heating with good coolant flow. Engine must be warm. After a drive you have several hours before block cools, when you can take a "free" shower
Do you mean thermostatic mixing valve?Did you use an expansion valve or anything similar in this setup?