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-   -   Wiring run – geography and placement question (s) (https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77704)

IPT 07-15-2019 03:27 AM

Wiring run – geography and placement question (s)
 
Currently I have just the stock Aux battery. I will most likely move to the RB components dual 6 Volt because as I understand it, it double the amp hr capacity. So I hope to use the stock wiring mostly and will have someone tap into the Aux line under the seat and run it to a Blue Sea 12 circuit breaker. I’ll do the runs from there.

The question is the best placement for the breaker. The intention is to get the power via a larger guage wire to the best place to make runs from with the least wire. The other challenge is it is a passenger van so I need to decide how to get the power from down below to up top where needed.

I’ll have the control panel if you will in the overhead cabinet just behind the second row.
Here all of what I intend to run/power:
1 - From control panel in overhead cabinet behind second row-
A - switches for multiple circuits of overhead lights, and under cabinet lights. Lots of runs, low power
overall. Some LED strips, 3v LED domes, some red some white (different channels.
B - Also I would like to place the Espar controller here is the wiring (distance) will allow.
2 – two rear door lights – switches will be in D pillar
3 – Max Airre fan –rear mount
4 – maybe a USB charging station or two in the rear, one by the 2nd row.
5 – maybe a 12V water pump in the rear passenger side area. Although there is the stock 12V cig power
there already – might not need it.
6 – down low near the second or 4rd row power for a Dometic cooler – 96L maybe?
7 – power for a mild subwoofer probably in wall by 2nd or 3 rd row.

I figure the best place for the breaker is maybe near the rear wheel well where most seem to put it. Possibly behind the driver seat on the wall. Or, up in the cabinets behind the switches. Seems like the only real way to go up without much struggle would be the B or D pillar.

I am open to (and welcome) thoughts and comments based on your experience and knowledge!

IPT 07-15-2019 08:06 PM

Re: Wiring run – geography and placement question (s)
 
No one on circuit breaker location behind driver seat, vs by rear wheel well, ve in overhead cabinet? I know the rear seems to be most common, but those builds usually have the battery banks there. What about if using the stock aux battery or dual 6V in the stock location?

OrioN 07-15-2019 08:13 PM

Re: Wiring run – geography and placement question (s)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by IPT (Post 787534)
No one on circuit breaker location behind driver seat, vs by rear wheel well, ve in overhead cabinet? I know the rear seems to be most common, but those builds usually have the battery banks there. What about if using the stock aux battery or dual 6V in the stock location?

1) The MB Aux. Battery option is designed for a 40A load/draw. Its components may not be adequate for your increased bank capacity nor load placed on it.

2) The rule and priority to maximize protection is to place circuit protections (fuses, breakers) as close to the power source(s) as physically possible. Sometimes this means fuses at both ends of wiring line.


PS... I am PM'ing you with my PayPal acct and invoice/retainer details. :smilewink:




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IPT 07-15-2019 11:48 PM

Re: Wiring run – geography and placement question (s)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by OrioN (Post 787539)
1) The MB Aux. Battery option is designed for a 40A load/draw. Its components may not be adequate for your increased bank capacity nor load placed on it.

Thanks - That gives a good starting point and things to consider.

I don't think I'd be at 40A even with everything going at one time, but I'll need to calculate that. I may be way off since I didn't run the numbers.

Ok, found this: Amps = watts of device / potential V. Than that should equal for a single LED dome light at 3w/12V = .25A per light. Almost everything that will be powered (except the sub and cooler) are low draw LED lights. Looks like if this math is right I will have a lot of headroom.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OrioN (Post 787539)
2) The rule and priority to maximize protection is to place circuit protections (fuses, breakers) as close to the power source(s) as physically possible. Sometimes this means fuses at both ends of wiring line.

So, and this is just hypothetical to understand..why not put a fuse 2 inches from the battery, then the fuse box right after, and then run 30 feet of wire to the device(s) (assuming you used the calculator to determine draw and proper wire gauge for the distance of the run? Or is that what you are suggesting? In my mind (and I'm new to this) it made more sense to just run a heavy gauge wire to the fuse box and then have shorter runs.

OrioN 07-16-2019 12:07 AM

Re: Wiring run – geography and placement question (s)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by IPT (Post 787613)



So, and this is just hypothetical to understand..why not put a fuse 2 inches from the battery, then the fuse box right after, and then run 30 feet of wire to the device(s) (assuming you used the calculator to determine draw and proper wire gauge for the distance of the run? Or is that what you are suggesting? In my mind (and I'm new to this) it made more sense to just run a heavy gauge wire to the fuse box and then have shorter runs.

The wire between the fuse(distribution) box and the fuse next to the battery can be any distance you like. The size of fuse is matched to this wire length and the load rating of the fuse(distribution) box.

Just to expand on the 'place fuse as close to the source' rule.... In the event that there is a fault and the fuse blows as it's intended to, the wire between the fuse and the source is still live but now has no more protection. The shorter the wire left, the less potential (pardon the pun) for further cause and effect.






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IPT 07-16-2019 07:56 AM

Re: Wiring run – geography and placement question (s)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by OrioN (Post 787622)
Just to expand on the 'place fuse as close to the source' rule.... In the event that there is a fault and the fuse blows as it's intended to, the wire between the fuse and the source is still live but now has no more protection. The shorter the wire left, the less potential (pardon the pun) for further cause and effect.


Makes perfect sense, thanks :cheers:.


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