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-   -   2010 3500 RV build (https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27822)

hein 07-26-2013 07:23 PM

2010 3500 RV build
 
http://www.impact3d.com/highway_shot.jpg

Introduction
We purchased this van used in the fall of 2012 with the intention of converting it to an fully equipped RV. Plus we had a business goal of discovering and developing products to offer to fellow DIY van upfitters. I joined and had been reading and learning from this forum for about a year prior.

When we became new owners, the van had already been up-fitted with CR Laurence windows and interior panels. The interior has a thin plywood (luan?) backing. The walls are laminated with thin black rubber sheet about 24" up from the floor. From there up and on the ceiling it's padded and upholstered with interweave fabric. The interior looks nice and is one of the primary reasons we bought this van. The factory floor was covered with a black rubber mat. There is a forward vent fan and rear vent in the roof and some LED ceiling lights. The previous owner had fabricated a two level elevated bed frame out of steel thinwall square tubing with plywood panels. It was self supporting and loosely attached to the walls with sheetmetal screws. I removed all that and cut it up to use as materials in the build.

The interior panels had been done by Van Specialties in Portland. It's nice to have a professionally done interior as a basis for our conversion. All the interior panels and the floor have since been removed to add wiring, upgraded insulation, more accessories, etc. We sealed all exposed plywood on the backs of the panels with 2 coats of odorless water based polyurethane. It took all of a gallon. I don't care for 'plywood' smell and this really helps reduce it. The wall panels are set aside and will be modified and reinstalled later.

Getting Started
One of the first things I wanted to do was paint the seat pedestals. White is great on the outside. But not so much for interior parts, imo.

http://www.impact3d.com/pedestals_painted2.jpg

I removed the pedestals to do some wiring and to put a sub amp under the passenger seat. While they were out, I cleaned them with a Scotch Brite pad and sprayed the outside with Rustoleum multicolor textured paint in the color 'Aged Iron'. This finish will be used through out the interior.

So with that done, the rest of the conversion can begin. The design was completed in 3D CAD as the project progressed.
Pdf document showing the layout and list of major components

Our thanks:
We wish to thank everyone for all the positive and constructive compliments, comments and feedback. And this forum for making that possible. And a huge Thank You to our customers for supporting us. We hope you find some useful information that will allow you to complete and enjoy your van. Feel free to contact us at your convenience.

Thank you,
Hein & Kim
DIYvan.com
https://stores.ebay.com/impactproducts
Impact, Inc.
Bus. location: 1512A Osprey Drive
Hood River, OR 97031
Hein 541 490 5098
Kim 541 490 4292

Notes:

1. This thread contains links to (most) all the supplies and components used, including fasteners and other doo/dads. If you can't find it, PM me.

2. Best way to find something specific is to use the Search Function. Easiest way is to PM me and I'll send you a link.

3. All of the fabricated components are defined by 3D CAD models/drawings/CNC paths so can be produced again. PM me if you are interested in a specific component. Some are already available via the following links:

Ebay Store: https://www.ebay.com/sch/impactproducts/m.html

Ford Transit build: https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/...-r-d-work.html

We also own DIYvan.com

pfflyer 07-26-2013 08:03 PM

Re: Painted the seat pedestals
 
Looks good.

GeorgeRa 07-29-2013 02:27 AM

Re: Painted the seat pedestals
 
Nice color match to the OEM grey,

George.

mugget 07-29-2013 08:47 PM

Re: Painted the seat pedestals
 
Nifty! I think you'er onto something there! It definitely looks good.

hein 07-29-2013 11:32 PM

Re: Painted the seat pedestals
 
Thanks for the compliments. The color is (inappropriately) called aged iron. This stuff goes on thick so it took almost 4 cans for each pedestal.

I had the floor and the lower portion of the interior skin Rhino Lined. I found that water comes in past the clips that hold the trim on the side of the van so I had the holes for those sealed. Jack's Body Shop did the work.

My plan is to fill the floor channels with rubber strips and then put down a full layer of 1/4" thick rubber mat from Oregon Rubber Mat. Some kind of thin harder floor will go over that. The Rhino Lining is a nice working surface in the mean time.

That's my sub box/work bench and a Coleman camp chair where I sit and think about what all I left to do, lol.

http://www.impact3d.com/floor_rhino_lined1.jpg

http://www.impact3d.com/floor_rhino_lined2.jpg

http://www.impact3d.com/pass_side_sm...nd%20boxes.jpg

GeorgeRa 07-30-2013 01:49 AM

Re: Painted the seat pedestals
 
Very nice wiring work, I was contemplating about using conduits but windows restrict available room for wiring so there was not much room for conduits.

How were the outer trim fasteners sealed? I should have done it with side panels off but they are reasonably easy to remove.

George.

hein 07-30-2013 04:06 AM

Re: Painted the seat pedestals
 
They were sprayed over with the Rhino stuff. I don't think that much water gets in under normal conditions but I washed under the trim at the car wash a number of times to remove road grime. I could see stains were the water had run down the inside under the many of the holes.

The conduit is for the AC. DC is automotive grade wire protected by plastic split looms and grommets where appropriate. Many of the boxes and conduit is held in place using VHB.

I suppose I should ask the mods turn this thread into a write up. More details to come.

hein 08-11-2013 02:35 PM

Re: Painted the seat pedestals
 
I've been working on the audio/video system. There is a Kenwood (AM/FM/CD/DVD/etc) head unit in the dash, back up camera over the rear door, sub woofer amp under the passenger seat, and TV to the right of the passenger side sliding door.

The rear TV is connected to the head unit video/audio out for DVD playback. Also, a video+audio source runs the from back to front so the TV sound can be piped through the audio system and a future video source can be seen on the head unit. I also have HDMI wires going to the TV from a future overhead cabinet where a Blueray/DVD and satellite box will be located. There are RF cables for cable and roof top antenna going to an A/B switch and then to the TV RF in. All those wires combined with speakers and power/ground make for quite bundle.

I upgraded to Infinity speakers in the doors and added two more in the headliner in back over the TV. There will be a 10" sub in the back somewhere. I disconnected the OEM center dash speaker and retained the OEM dash tweeters.

I robbed the blocks off the side of the OEM radio and mounted them to the new head unit. Makes it very sturdy.

http://www.impact3d.com/HU_with_OEM_side_blocks12.jpg

And machined some adapter rings (which we sell on ebay) for the 6.5" door speakers.

http://www.impact3d.com/adapter_ring..._fasteners.jpg

More....

TV install test. The TV will either be removed from the arm or strapped to a cradle for travel.

http://www.impact3d.com/tv_install+wiring_test2.jpg

Head Unit installed with toggle switch (lower left of adapter panel) to transfer the audio/video system from vehicle power to coach power. The head unit, sub amp and 12V TV each have a relay that allows them to be switched between vehicle or coach power. The relays are controlled by the switch.

http://www.impact3d.com/Kenwood_HU_i...fer_switch.jpg

hein 08-11-2013 03:30 PM

Re: Painted the seat pedestals
 
Next up: Replace rear vent with Mach8 9200 BTU rooftop unit:

http://www.impact3d.com/rear_vent_where_AC_will_go.jpg

The squares with the + drawn (sharpie) on the roof are where the foam blocks
on the bottom of the AC pan will be located. This is too plan the layout
of the rear support frame yet to be fabricated.

hein 08-12-2013 05:48 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
AC support framing weldments:

Cross member weld fixture. Needed to make four identical cross members to go
longitudinally between the OEM roof cross members.

http://www.impact3d.com/AC_crossmember_weld_fixture.jpg

Front Frame welded. It goes around the 14x14 hole and supports the roof opening. The formed metal frame lying on top is used to clamp the unit against the roof with 4 long screws.

http://www.impact3d.com/front_AC_sup...ame_welded.jpg

Rear Frame test fit. This holds up the 4 supports on the rear of the AC unit where the compressor and condenser fan are located.

http://www.impact3d.com/rear_AC_supp...e_test_fit.jpg

Both frames will be bolted in place using 1/4-20 rivet nuts and glued to the skin with 3M urethane window weld adhesive.

P.S. We filled the roof ribs with expanding foam and sealed the holes with Dynamat. (-Which was a bad idea because the expanding foam did not cure and kept running out on sunny days. We now recommend pulling Thinsulate strips into the ribs.)

hein 08-19-2013 02:32 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Got the rear AC frame installed. I filled it with expanding foam first. VHB tape is between the frame and the cross members. ABS blocks & shims fill the space between the frame and the inside of the roof where the A/C supports will be on the outside. I used 3M fast set polyurethane adhesive (window weld) to glue the ABS to the roof. I had to run conduit through this frame. I used a section of smaller diameter conduit and slid the smurf tube over the ends held with some PVC glue.

http://www.impact3d.com/AC_rear_roof...rt_overall.jpg
image note: We also injected foam into the van roof cross members and used strips of Dynamat to seal the holes. (-Which was a bad idea because the expanding foam did not cure and kept running out on sunny days. We now recommend pulling Thinsulate strips into the ribs.)

http://www.impact3d.com/AC_rear_roof_support_detail.jpg

I used the remaining tube of Window Weld to re-attach the exterior body panels to the space frame. There were a number of places that were completely loose. Not sure what causes them to come loose. Maybe the sliding door since most of the failed adhesive was on that side. I think some of the panels were even rattling.

http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_body_pa...ure_rebond.jpg

Also painted the A/C inside assembly to match the interior. Rustoleum Aged Iron texture paint again.

http://www.impact3d.com/AC_ceiling_assy_painted.jpg

The picture below shows the headliner that came in the van. I painted the fan to match it too. I've started insulating from front to back with 3M Thinsulate held in place with 3M 90 spray adhesive. Then a vapor barrier of taped on Reflectix. Not sure I'll follow the same exact scheme on the walls. I will use more Thinsulate but may add some sort of rigid foam first.

I've installed Thinsulate over the cab headliner, behind the door panels, and behind the trim on the A & B pillars. All the doors and every unsupported panel has been damped using a 9 pack of 18x22 sheets of Dynamat Extreme which I got online from Best Buy. We are quite happy with how quiet the front is even though its basically a wall-less cargo van in the back right now.

http://www.impact3d.com/fan_frame_pa...ner_detail.jpg

hein 08-20-2013 08:17 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
I needed a way to work on the roof and I didn't want to risk denting the sheetmetal with my knees. So I built a platform that rests in the roof rail channels. (my van doesn't have rails yet). I used it to remove the rear vent which will be replaced with the roof AC.

Removing the vent was quite the chore due to it being well sealed. I had already loosened the screws by grabbing them on the inside with needle nose vice grips and then turning them out. Most of the heads popped through the sealant on the outside so they were easy remove the rest of the way with a screwdriver. I used a wire wheel on a drill to scour away sealant around the perimeter of the vent's flange. Then I was able to get under it with a putty knife. I used silicon spray so my putty knife wouldn't stick as I ran it around and under the flange. Once it started coming up, it lifted up and out easily. Some 3M adhesive remover spray removed the remaining adhesive quite easily. I love that stuff.

Work platform and ladder looks a little sketch but actually quite safe when you take a closer look. I have a helper hold down the platform through the roof opening when I go up the ladder. There are tabs to keep the ladder from sliding off to the sides. The end rails are cedar decking and plywood is from a bed that was in the van when we got it. There are a couple of 2x4 cross members underneath the plywood.

http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_roof_work_platform1.jpg

http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_roof_work_platform2.jpg

hein 08-25-2013 10:48 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Some text & pictures copied/moved from another thread on proposed electrical systems:

I built the electrical system on it's own chassis. This has allowed me to get it all set up on the bench leaving only the battery, shore power and individual circuit connections once installed. One of the reasons I choose the Magnum Inverter is that they provided a 3D CAD file that allowed me to design around their unit.

http://www.impact3d.com/electrical_panel_assembled.jpg

Earlier picture of a test fit I did after I got the parts from the place that profiled and formed them:

http://www.impact3d.com/inverter_panel_mtg_frame.jpg

Here are a few notes on the system I have in the works for this van

1. All AC loads go through the Inverter. Switching between shore power and inverter power will use the internal x-fer relays.

2. There is a dedicated 30A Blue Sea breaker between the shore power plug and the inverter.

3. A large Blue sea DC switch is used in reverse to distribute 12V power to the inverter (position 1) and the DC panel (position 2).
This allows isolation of each or all off.

4. There will be a 400 A fuse under the vehicle where the battery cables converge.
I considered terminal fuses on each battery but not going to take it that far. I'm double insulating all my 4/0 cables.

5. There are 2 shunts for current monitoring. A large Magnum shunt monitors the whole system via the Magnum remote.
A smaller shunt is used by the ammeter on the DC panel.

6. Many of the connections are made using solid copper bus bars to save space and reduce voltage drop.
I replaced some of the wiring on the Blue Sea panel with custom bus bars.

More test fitting below. Positive connections are fully insulated in the final assembly.
http://www.impact3d.com/formed_1875thick_DC_busbars.jpg

GeorgeRa 08-26-2013 07:04 AM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Impressive,

1. I like the concept of building the electrical system into a unit.
2. Great space saving with copper bars instead of cables, looks good too.

Questions:
1. What is you plan for AC/DC grounds?
2. Are you planning to use alternator as the charging source?
3. How did you connect 2 DC shunts?

Thank you for reporting your progress.

George.

mugget 08-26-2013 10:44 AM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by hein (Post 256718)

:wtf:

That has to be the largest control panel I've ever seen! :bounce:

All aboard Starship Sprinter 3500, travelling to the farthest reaches of the Sprinterverse! :smirk:

Very impressive work - you just set a new standard for me to aspire to!

hein 08-26-2013 04:29 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa (Post 256760)
1. What is you plan for AC/DC grounds?

AC ground and DC ground will be connected to the chassis. AC neutral is automatically bonded to ground in the inverter when it is running. Otherwise neutral bonding occurs in the system I connect to when plugged in. This is per the MS manual. excerpt below:

http://www.impact3d.com/Magnum_MS_se...ety_system.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa (Post 256760)
2. Are you planning to use alternator as the charging source?

Yes, my van has a 220A alternator and I have the Magnum battery combiner. I may have an auxiliary alternator installed by Upscale Automotive. Mercedes Info here. The additional alternator will be needed if I want to run the rooftop air conditioner off the inverter. I will probably add a solar panel at some point. I'll just hop over to your build thread to spec that, thank you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa (Post 256760)
3. How did you connect 2 DC shunts?

http://www.impact3d.com/shunt_connections.jpg
diagram created using Digikey Schemeit

hein 08-27-2013 12:26 AM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Finally got the forward support frame for the roof AC done and installed. While test fitting it I decided there was not enough structure carrying the load out to the side walls. So I extended the mounting flanges so they would reinforce the middle roof cross member. The roof is much less flimsy now. Pictures:

The weldment with extended mounting flanges.
http://www.impact3d.com/AC_front_roo...t_weldment.jpg

Paint removed from cross member for optimum adhesive performance. 3M Window Weld 08609
http://www.impact3d.com/AC_front_roof_support_prep.jpg

Installed.
http://www.impact3d.com/AC_front_roo..._installed.jpg

mugget 08-27-2013 08:53 AM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
I had to look up the data sheet on that Window Weld, I was surprised that any auto product would recommended to be used on bare metal (aside from etch primer!)

Where did you get the info that it's best to apply on bare metal? Because the 3M data sheet says to prime any bare metal (it actually says to be careful removing any old glass so you don't scratch the metal)...

hein 08-27-2013 02:11 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
I guess I should have read the data sheet so thanks for the heads up. I think it will be fine since it is on the inside of the van. -and there are 12 screws too. I just checked the bond and I can't peel the adhesive off the metal but I can peel it off the paint pretty easily.

I know a common problem with windshields comes from scratches that are created when the windshield is removed that are not later covered with some primer or the adhesive when the new windshield is installed. - leading to rust.

I'll paint over any remaining bare metal with some white spray paint. I'm glad to have the roof reinforced for the AC unit. The roof is pretty flimsy to begin with.

mean_in_green 08-27-2013 02:21 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Well done - that's not the first solution ever posted to overcome rooftop access without damage but it definitely gets my vote. Love it! I walked on my T1N roof once - never again...

GeorgeRa 08-27-2013 04:09 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by hein (Post 256924)
I guess I should have read the data sheet so thanks for the heads up. I think it will be fine since it is on the inside of the van. -and there are 12 screws too. I just checked the bond and I can't peel the adhesive off the metal but I can peel it off the paint pretty easily.

I know a common problem with windshields comes from scratches that are created when the windshield is removed that are not later covered with some primer or the adhesive when the new windshield is installed. - leading to rust.

I'll paint over any remaining bare metal with some white spray paint. I'm glad to have the roof reinforced for the AC unit. The roof is pretty flimsy to begin with.

This is from 3M regarding moisture cured polyurethane adhesive. From page 4 http://solutions.3m.com/3MContentRet...bute=ImageFile

"Use of a primer is an extra step and cost and will depend on substrates and the final
end use. Using primer can improve the corrosion resistance of certain metals as well
as improve the durability of the bond when exposed to high humidity conditions.
For most applications high strength bonds on metal can be achieved without the use
of a primer. Pre-testing for adhesion is suggested to determine if a primer is needed.
The 3M™ Scotch-Weld™ Structural Adhesive Primer EC-1945 B/A works well for
most metals."

Even on a fresh steel surface there is a thin a layer of oxide formed almost immediately so any adhesive bonds to that layer which has good adhesion to steel. Corrosion issue is not critical in your application.

Good luck,

George.

hein 08-28-2013 12:18 AM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
I finished prepping the roof opening by gluing the skin down to the frame. I used 1/4" thick ABS strips to fill the gap between the top of the frame and the inside of the roof. Slathered it up with the Window Weld and clamped it all in place. Things got a little messy with the glue, ha ha.

http://www.impact3d.com/AC_support_f...amped_down.jpg

hein 08-29-2013 07:48 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
I mounted a sub today. CNC'd a panel out of 3/4 thick expanded PVC (Celtec) and mounted a Radio Shack 10" sub I had laying around. I had to dig out one of my daughters hip-hop CDs for a test. I'll build some kind of closed cell foam enclosure for the back.

Warning! might be a little loud.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kyy8Cu3X5Qs

The interior wall panel will cover the speaker panel and I'll finish it off with a grill (same style I used on the ceiling speakers).

http://www.impact3d.com/sub_speaker_...el_overall.jpg
Note: Sub panels are available for sale. They are flush with the inner sheet metal so will not interfere with wall panels. Can make cut out to fit 8, 10 or 12" subs. Please PM me for details

Clearance with body skin ~1/4". Depth of the speaker is 3 15/16"

http://www.impact3d.com/sub_speaker_..._body_skin.jpg

hein 08-30-2013 12:09 AM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
I'm waiting for a condensate pump kit for my roof AC plus some other parts to convert it to a wall mounted thermostat. I painted the AC cover to 'match' the Sprinter body color. Color is Rustoleum Painters Touch Gloss White - it adheres to plastic. Key to spray paint is to apply enough for it to flow. Work across large surfaces in a line to maintain a wet zone. Then it will gloss. It took two cans.

http://www.impact3d.com/AC_cover_painted.jpg

Here is the AirExcel 9200 Btu Mach8 with the cover removed in case you are interested:

http://www.impact3d.com/airexcel_mac...er_removed.jpg

atulin 08-30-2013 01:18 AM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by hein (Post 257262)
Here is the AirExcel 9200 Btu Mach8 with the cover removed in case you are interested:

http://www.impact3d.com/airexcel_mac...er_removed.jpg

It's really interesting how much smaller they have been able to make the fan on the new mach 8. I had a polar cub and the fan was 2 or 3 times that size.

mugget 08-30-2013 12:15 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Nice job on the sub. Giving me more good ideas...!

What is the theory with those (I am not an audio guy, never owned a car), do you need to seal the rear side of the sub to make it airtight? Won't the effect of the sub just go straight into the body skin and be audible to anyone outside? Or is it okay with all the vibration damping/CLD you've got installed?

hein 08-30-2013 02:07 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
An enclosure is needed so stay tuned and I'll show what I come up with. I may add a port to the panel. You'll be able to hear it outside the vehicle (if I crank it up) so maybe not a good idea to camp near me, ha ha.

Here's a link about different woofer types: http://www.eminence.com/2011/06/seal...ed-enclosures/

And a drawing of the panel if you want to make one: http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_Sprinte..._sub_panel.pdf

atulin 08-30-2013 05:22 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by mugget (Post 257301)
Nice job on the sub. Giving me more good ideas...!

What is the theory with those (I am not an audio guy, never owned a car), do you need to seal the rear side of the sub to make it airtight? Won't the effect of the sub just go straight into the body skin and be audible to anyone outside? Or is it okay with all the vibration damping/CLD you've got installed?

It depends on the type of music you listen to and how much power your amp has but I went with a sealed box for my 12in sub. On mine, the manufacturer provides a volume spec for if you're using a sealed or ported box. My sealed box is about 1 cubic ft internally and it's made from 3/4 MDF.

As for the campground, even my well insulated sprinter lets someone outside hear pretty well what I'm playing even at a reasonable volume. Placing a sub in the outside wall probably won't help that but the front speakers are already in the doors so it probably won't make that much difference

hein 08-30-2013 08:55 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
I picked up some lightweight closed cell foam from a client who fabricates with EVA foams. It's called Minicell and is quite common and readily available in a variety of thicknesses. I used 4" thick material to shape some 2" wide bulkheads that span the void between the inner structure and the outer skin of the van. They are slightly (1/8") oversize so gently wedged in place with no further fastening.

I ran the bulkheads across the top and down the sides to fully enclose the speaker. Here is one of the inside corners:
http://www.impact3d.com/sub_enclosur...s_intalled.jpg

Below is a shaped foam bulkhead. The inside is straight and the outside follows the body contour. The foam is flexible and somewhat compressible so you can bend it to get it in the right spot and then work it in place. Minicell is easy to cut with a hand saw and cuts very nicely with a band saw. You can also sand it with coarse grit.

http://www.impact3d.com/sub_enclosur...ead_shaped.jpg

Rough cutting Minicell. I used a band saw for final cuts.
http://www.impact3d.com/working_with...k_minicell.jpg

Stuffed some 3M Thinsulate into my quick and easy sub enclosure. You can see the minicell bulkheads showing through the vertical slots in the body on both sides of the enclosure. I covered that and wrapped the outside corners with some Gorilla tape which sticks really well to the minicell.

http://www.impact3d.com/sub_enclosur...Thinsulate.jpg

[edit]
Decided to add a port for more efficiency. Sounds better.

http://www.impact3d.com/sub_enclosure_ported.jpg

hein 08-31-2013 03:41 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
More uses for the minicell: Filling the corrugations in the floor. I do have a lot of beveled strips to cut but it goes quickly with a sharp carpet knife along a straight edge. Plan is to fill all the corrugations, put down a full layer of 1/4" thick minicell and then reinstall the floor w/o the asphalt pad they put under it from the factory. Or maybe replace the OEM floor with some 1/4 okoume plywood depending on how the thickness stacks up.

http://www.impact3d.com/floor_buildu...ler_strips.jpg

Graphite Dave 08-31-2013 04:09 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
What is okoume plywood?

hein 08-31-2013 04:34 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Graphite Dave (Post 257428)
What is okoume plywood?

It's a hardwood based marine plywood widely used for boat building

Charlie 09-01-2013 12:10 AM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Dave,

You have seen the stuff before. The 2 kayaks on my van at this years Sprinterfest are made from Okoume.

Charlie

hein 09-01-2013 02:07 AM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
I have some 6mm okoume left over from a stitch and glue boat I help build. I modeled the boat in 3D CAD, flattened (undeveloped) the panels and cut fourteen 4x8 sheets worth of pieces on the CNC. I think she's now fitted with a cabin and other fixings. During construction, it was held together with zip ties while the epoxy cured.

http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Stern_View.jpg

At this point I plan to reuse the OEM floor and just plug the 2 slots and 1 hole I don't need. I'll remove all the wood strips and factory matting off the underside and it will lay flat on a full layer of 1/4" thick minicell. I'll retain most of the factory cargo tie downs to re-secure it. Pretty much stock (including the elevation) except insul/isolated by the minicell foam and a coat of Rhinoliner.

hein 09-03-2013 05:25 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Espar D2 and all the fixings ordered from esparparts.com. Contemplating water heat...

Thinking I can fit a Isotemp Slim 15L under the hood. Might have flop the ecu over and down but looks promising. The heat source is nearby but I have no clue how to plumb it to the engine.

http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_water_h...emp_slim15.jpg

GeorgeRa 09-03-2013 05:44 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Under the hood, in lieu of auxiliary battery, should be a very good place, out of elements and close to the heater core. I would assume it should be plumbed in line with MB heater core. The Slim 15 is very well insulated so it should keep heat for hours.

George.

rb3232 09-03-2013 06:25 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by hein (Post 257777)
Espar D2 and all the fixings ordered from esparparts.com. Contemplating water heat...

Thinking I can fit a Isotemp Slim 15L under the hood. Might have flop the ecu over and down but looks promising. The heat source is nearby but I have no clue how to plumb it to the engine.

http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_water_h...emp_slim15.jpg


"Might have flop the ecu over and down" I have considered this also. Can anyone confirm that there are no issues with changing it's location? ( location with respect to it's orientation along it's 3 axis' vs the van)

Thanks, Ross

hein 09-03-2013 07:22 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
I think the harnesses will allow it to be moved forward and down without changing the orientation.

rb3232 09-03-2013 11:57 PM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by hein (Post 257797)
I think the harnesses will allow it to be moved forward and down without changing the orientation.


I can see that and I agree. What I don't know is if there is any requirement for it to be aligned with the body of the sprinter in any/all three planes. For sensors or whatever. Ross

hein 09-04-2013 01:08 AM

Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)
 
I was in a tinkering mood so I moved the ECU. I reused the OEM cradle secured with a bolt and some zip ties. To gain more space for the water heater, I removed the washer bottle and plan to move that to the other fender well. I've ordered a 2 1/2 gal. jug and hope to use it for the reservoir. I'll need a platform for it to sit on and I'll poke some holes for the OEM pump and level sensor.

Moved ECU

http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_ECU_relocated.jpg
Follow up Note: This is not the final mounting for the ECU. Later on, I fabricated a steel mounting bracket that is much more secure and puts the ECU in a better position. -with no zip ties.

If a 5 gallon bucket fits:

http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_water_h...ucket_test.jpg

Why wouldn't this?

http://www.isotherm-parts.com/images/IT-BS-15-110.jpg


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