lock barrel removal

Have removed the door handle since there was a small piece of broken plastic. Found new door handle, now need to swap the lock barrel. In the manual it states: "remove lock barrel" which is a great help, but it doesn't seem that easy... Or is it? How does that pesky black piece of plastic come off the end?

Jan

Hang in here with me - I just went out and took my handle apart because I've always wanted to make a minute and make sure my assumptions were correct - I'm just waiting for pictures to download and you'll have a "tutorial" to go by in just a little bit.

You will need a working key for the handle you want to take the lock out of. (This is my assumption at the time of this writing - I have a speculation that you could remove it without a working key - but, based on what I've just observed - I think you'd do some damage trying to get it apart without a key - I feel certain it would involve drilling, it's something I'll just have to try some time.)

OK! - Here it is - internet connection went wonkie for a good bit of the evening... (You'll have to forgive the blur - I was just using the cell phone camera for these.) T27 for removing the handle from the door. (T1N)

Here's what you have with the handle removed from the van:
(In this shot, the lock is in the "rest" position - as if there is no key in it at all)




The first step here is to identify the holes. I needed to compress the spring just a tad to see these holes clearly - mine had some dirt built up in them - a little scrape with a straight pick and the shinier metal showed well.



The retainer wafer becomes visible when you turn the key. You'll see about half of it, not the entire thing. I did NOT see the retainer when I turned the key one direction, then saw it when I turned it the other direction. This is why it will be important to clean out those small holes, so you'll see the change of color easier. (A spray solution, WD-40, or something similar would probably do as well or better than scraping it I'd imagine.) Press down on the retaining wafer with a suitable instrument, (straightened paper clip, straight pick, 90degree pick, just about anything with a point at the end), pull gently with the key head, and the cylinder should come right out for you.

Notice the groove at the end of the cylinder in the second picture - when you go to put this back together, look down in the handle where the cylinder goes and you will see what these grooves on the sides are for. There is a "ramp" in the cavity where the cylinder goes that push the retaining wafer down while you're putting the cylinder back in.

Hope this Helps!

Well that explains how to get the barrel out. the pastic piece attaching the door release mechanism was broken on mine, so I had to re-build that part. On another note, has anyone any experience with the $20 door handles on ebay? Look right but seem cheap...

Thanks, Jan

I'd have to do a tad of digging - I think that's about what I paid for a brand new one from the dealer..maybe just a few dollars more...but not enough more to justify the shipping, etc...

how do you remove the lock cylinder if a key cannot be inserted?

how do you remove the lock cylinder if a key cannot be inserted?

Click to expand...

Why can't the key be inserted? (since that changes the methods)

If the lock's OK, take the VIN and your ownership papers to the dealer, and they can get the key number.
From the key number, a new key can be cut. (there's a tiny chance the key number may be on the exterior of the cylinder)

If it's (for example) a handle-with-lock that you got on eBay, drop in at a locksmith and have him rake it and remove it.

Of course, we're now led to "once you have it out, then what?"

--dick

key will only go in about halfway, so I suspect something was broken off inside the cylinder. I have a new cylinder to replace it once I can get the old one out.

Ohhh... tough...
T'were me, i'd probably start by exploring the blockage with a tiny drill (1/16th") by hand... see if i could determine what was in there.
Bubble gum? ick
Metal? (do you know the history of the lock? is it a broken key?)
If metal, i'd then clamp the lock into a drill press and drill a small hole in the blockage, then try and tap it (2-56 or 0-80).
Then insert screw and *pull*.

If paper blockage, try extracting it with the drill (and larger sizes... but not big enough to damage the tumblers.
Spin the drill by hand, not under power. "Extract" may mean "convince little bits to come out at a time".

At some point, sheer frustration would take over, and the drill bit would become large enough to eat into the tumblers far enough to allow extraction of the cylinder.

OR (and i'd probably explore the cost of this before launching into the "bigger drill" area) ask a locksmith "how much?"
(cost of locksmith may or may not exceed cost of new door handle from eBay)

good luck
--dick (locks are a hobby, not a business, to me... nebeb is a qualified locksmith... i ain't)

A tip for getting a broken key out of a cylinder; Take the blade from a Dremel jig saw and snap off the end opposite the way the teeth point and use this to slide next to the broken-off key to pull it out. The thin, hardened blade and super sharp teeth work well. Sometimes you have to grind or file off one side of the blade so the "set" of the saw teeth only go one way.

Would I be able to remove my lock barrel if I can insert the key, but not turn it? My key doesn't work on any of my locks besides the sliding door (and of course the ignition). I bought it that way...it's very weird.

Also, would this result from a dull key that maybe a new key would solve?

If anyone is still monitoring this thread I have the same issue as the last poster. My key broke off inside the drivers side cylinder. I have been picking at it all night and want to know if there are any tricks I am missing?

willrwilli said:

If anyone is still monitoring this thread I have the same issue as the last poster. My key broke off inside the drivers side cylinder. I have been picking at it all night and want to know if there are any tricks I am missing?

Click to expand...

In a post above it was mentioned that silicon spray and a dental pick were successful. I'd think WD-40 would be OK too. Dental picks are quite strong and have a bit of give. Still you need to be careful to not break anything off inside the barrel.

I've heard of people super gluing (or epoxy) a small piece of wire to the exposed end to give something to pull on. I've not tried that. Were I to try it I would put a sharp 90 degree bend at the end of the wire to provide as much surface area for the glue bond as possible. Perhaps twist a loop in the wire and then flatten the end to be glued. That will provide better center pull.

Clean all parts with acetone or other non-oily solvent. Carb cleaner may be OK. I would then drop a bit of super glue (or tiniest bit of epoxy) on the wire surface and hold it against the key end until set. You don't want to get super glue into the lock assembly.

After it sets go have few refreshing beverages of choice, or wait overnight before trying the extraction. You want to be certain the glue is fully cured. As I said, I've not tried the method ever. Good luck. vic

willrwilli said:

If anyone is still monitoring this thread I have the same issue as the last poster. My key broke off inside the drivers side cylinder. I have been picking at it all night and want to know if there are any tricks I am missing?

Click to expand...

Hi, that would be me. You don't say what year your van is, how many miles are on it, etc, so its difficult to offer up any more specific advice. I used a silicone graphite lock spray and a dental pick. I also removed the whole door handle and took it into my shop where I had good lighting, a quiet place to work, reading glasses, and a cold beer. I took my time and was determined not to get frustrated. After a few minutes careful probing the key remnant pulled free of the lock tumblers. Maybe I was lucky. My van only had 114k on it and the key had been broken off for a couple years.

The DPO (Dreaded Previous Owner) had been locking the drivers door from the inside and slamming the door shut and it would stay locked. Now that that my vans lock cylinders and latch mechanisms have been all properly cleaned and lubricated, I learned that the doors must be manually locked from inside the van, or locked with the key from outside the van.

Good luck!

Quick update. Found a spot that was able to do it today. He runs a locksmith on wheels. Total cost with a new key blade was $160.00 not bad considering if I broke something it would have been much more.

Just replaced my entire sliding door handle, including transfering the lock cylinder to the new handle. I was a bit stumped until I found this thread and then it took about two minutes to do it. I had to replace the door handle because the inner screw came out of the old one and before I could fix it, I lost the handle part. Replaced the whole thing and lubricated it all up and good to go. I also had to replace the lower door roller, but that is for another thread.

Many thanks to the keys for removal of the cylinder. Once again, the forum comes to the rescue.

Chris

It's obvious that the back door was changed and the cylinder wasn't changed over. So, now I have a cylinder I can't unlock with the key that operates the rest of the vehicle. I've tried raking it, but to no avail. I want to just slip in a new cylinder. Will this one slip out with the lock not engaged?

NetDoc said:

It's obvious that the back door was changed and the cylinder wasn't changed over. So, now I have a cylinder I can't unlock with the key that operates the rest of the vehicle. I've tried raking it, but to no avail. I want to just slip in a new cylinder. Will this one slip out with the lock not engaged?

Click to expand...

I can't answer your question.

Some lock cylinders are designed so that a proper key needs to be in the barrel before the assembly can be removed. Some other lock styles depend upon a clip or clip ring of some type to release the mechanism. For those a proper key isn't usually needed. Edit: The correct info is in post #1 already.

An idea which will reduce your lock security, but may be of use for your situation.

If you can get the lock barrel (cylinder) out then you may be able to insert your door key and fit/use only the pins or latches which line up properly. That is accomplished by filing the latches to fit, swapping, and/or removing those that can't be adapted.

Removing latches or tumbler pins reduces the security of the lock a bit by making it easier to pick. For the most part just having 1/2 of the latches/pins working provides enough general security for a vehicle. Thieves don't generally try to pick locks. They use more brutal methods.

vic

You get the gold star, Vic! Rather than use a file though, as many times the wafers are hardened steel, I use a bench grinder. It's quick and dirty. No, not as secure, but these locks are hard to rake as it is. Hopefully, I'll get the right cylinder from my friend in California.