Damn block heater installation

I have tried twice now to take it out myself. I called two shops and they denied working on it.

What the hell can I do to get that damn plug out of the block. I have heated it with a small hand held torch and then with a pipe on a socket with wrench tried to get it to turn, but the socket rolls off the damn plug every time. Its probably so rounded off now that there is not way to get it off with a socket .

Has any one tried to drill a whole in the center and then used an easy out or something. Think I will also borrow the neighbors acetylene torch. This has been on the to-do list way to long!!!!!

Mackconsult,
Drilling through to use an easy out may be a bit risky. Once you drill through you'll then need to contend with the new hole if the easy out method doesn't work. If you do need to close that hole, I suppose if there's enough material in the plug you could tap it to a pipe size and install a pipe plug?

As I'm certain you know easy outs are quite hard and a bit brittle. If you break off an easy out in the hole you're off to other problems. It is possible to drill out the plug enough and pick out the threads, but that requires precision drilling to the point that I'd be afraid to go that route.

Sorry I can't give better insight. A propane torch may not be able to get the area hot enough to help. Don't become so focused on the removal that you forget there are other options to heating the engine which don't need that plug out. Have you tried searching the forum? I believe the plug removal has been discussed before. AP/vic

mackconsult said:

It's a metric and you used a standard???? I might have to give that a shot.

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The threaded plug is a thin steel stamping. It's hex's dimensions are not kept to the tolerance of a machined hex bolt. Doktor A

Vic is right about looking at alternatives. Drilling it out would be a last resort. The propane torch is not going to generate enough heat to help much.
Maybe a call to Doktor A would be your best bet??
Here is my standard routine for badly stuck fasteners:
1. Soak with penetrating oil for 24 hours
2. Heat to slightly red with an acetylene torch
3. Use an air impact wrench and six point impact socket.

Have you drained the coolant? Good idea to drain it off to below the plug level otherwise any heat you put into it is just getting absorbed and its effectiveness reduced. Propane's not hot enough, get your friends Messers Oxy and Acet in on the job.

Is there a way to heat the block & then cool the plug w/ some freon?

When I install Sprinter block heaters I drain the block of coolant down to the level of the block drain.

Then I drill a small hole in the plug I'm removing. The hole is oriented at 6:00 and as close as possible to the outer rim without risking damage to the threads in the block. This is to drain any remaining coolant further down below the plug.

Then I use an oxy/acetylene torch to heat the outer perimeter of the plug. This step is extremely important and must be done quickly. Then the plug unscrews like butte without trauma to the weakly stamped hex. Doktor A

I shoved an screwdriver through it and turned it out that way. I can't really recommend this though. I thought for sure I would be towing it somewhere, but I didn't damage any thing and the long handle screwdriver gave me enough torqueto twist it out. I did the screwdriver in a rage of fit after I punctured it by accident trying to get it off. I'd say listen to the Doktor A, much more rational, and he's the expert.

katmat said:

Is there a way to heat the block & then cool the plug w/ some freon?

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Shhhhh............ We're not supposed to do that anymore.

Talking about alternative....

You may want to consider this as an alternative https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=668

Wow .... are you and HP employee?

Lepapehermann said:

Talking about alternative....

You may want to consider this as an alternative https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=668

Click to expand...

I'll try dr A's method first then yours.

Zymurgy said:

I shoved an screwdriver through it and turned it out that way. I can't really recommend this though. I thought for sure I would be towing it somewhere, but I didn't damage any thing and the long handle screwdriver gave me enough torqueto twist it out. I did the screwdriver in a rage of fit after I punctured it by accident trying to get it off. I'd say listen to the Doktor A, much more rational, and he's the expert.

Click to expand...

Just completed my installation. Drained coolant. Remove exhaust pipe bracket for access.I hammered on a 12 pt 13/16 socket for a better bite on the plug, then hit with oxy/acetylene torch around outer edge of plug. removal became very easy. You must use high pin point heat. Mapp or propane just won't cut it.

I asked about this yesterday for my use in OK.

...I'll just pull 'er in the barn 'n let the chickens roost on it to keep 'er warm!...


Thanks for the quick education,
Okie
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Okie Rick said:

I asked about this yesterday for my use in OK.

...I'll just pull 'er in the barn 'n let the chickens roost on it to keep 'er warm!...


Thanks for the quick education,
Okie
-

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Sometimes less really can be better. Sell the eggs and buy anti-gel with the proceeds. AP/vic

It's a metric and you used a standard???? I might have to give that a shot.

13/16 = .8125
22 mm = .8661

Little over 50 thousands smaller

KEC said:

Just completed my installation. Drained coolant. Remove exhaust pipe bracket for access.I hammered on a 12 pt 13/16 socket for a better bite on the plug, then hit with oxy/acetylene torch around outer edge of plug. removal became very easy. You must use high pin point heat. Mapp or propane just won't cut it.

Click to expand...

mackconsult said:

Wow .... are you and HP employee?

Click to expand...

You may not have noticed but it is PH not HP!!! ( and yes.... I used to work for HP in Canada)

mackconsult said:

It's a metric and you used a standard???? I might have to give that a shot.

13/16 = .8125
22 mm = .8661

Little over 50 thousands smaller

Click to expand...

I used to keep a box of 12 point SAE sockets for hammering onto rounded metric screws/bolts on cars suffering from wrench rash. Most of the time it works great, but ruins the sockets. In this case, the cheaper the better. Some of the chinese sockets are made of case hardened fudge.

Jef

Frickin thing.

Borrowed my neighbors oxy/acetylene and spent 4 hours trying to get that damn plug out. The only thing I managed to do was consume what was left of my neighbors acetylene & drop a hot socket on to the steering boot on the passenger side and melt a whole in it .

Was reluctant to drill a hole in the plug because I don't want to make my van disabled.

I am putting this off till the spring. Next time I try it I will use oxy/acetylene once again and probably rent a 90 degree drill from parkrose hardware, then drill a 1/4" whole right in the center and try an easy out (get a large crescent on it). That way if I still can't get it out at least I can tap and plug the whole I drilled.

What a pain in the ass.

There is no way I am paying some one to do this for me now. I am in over my head, and have mucked up the plug.

I'm glad I don't have to do what you're doing. Just reading it gives me a headache!