Power Door Lock Detective Work

Helmach

New member
I get the infamous automatic "lock then unlock" behavior and I would love to fix it. Once I do the double keypress override, all doors lock as they should. After cleaning/inspecting all door contacts, the problem remains. So now I am going through the system looking for clues. I have started to replace actuators one at a time, which brings me to my question:

When turned with the key, all door locks actuate the central locking system EXCEPT the rear door. I took this as a clue that the position sensor on the rear actuator or latch assembly must be bad. So I replaced the actuator and latch assembly with another (used). After replacing it, the problem remained. I then tested both position sensors on the old one and they were fine.

Sooooo:

1) Should the key to the rear door actuate the central locking system, or am I imagining that?
2) If the answer is yes, what else could the problem be given I am 99% sure that both the door contacts and position sensors in the rear door are fine.

Thanks!
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Sooooo:
1) Should the key to the rear door actuate the central locking system, or am I imagining that?
2) If the answer is yes, what else could the problem be given I am 99% sure that both the door contacts and position sensors in the rear door are fine.
(1) Yes, they all should lock (or at least act as if you pushed any "lock now!" button). (i use that feature frequently)

(2) i'd suspect a wiring problem... the wires to the springy contacts (and plates) could've fallen off. There could be wire damage elsewhere.

There was a thread a couple of years ago where someone worked out which wire was which on the rear door frame, and then measured what voltage(s) should be there at different points in the cycle.

I assume you've looked at the section 8W "power door locks" wiring diagrams in http://diysprinter.co.uk/reference/2006-VA-SM.pdf ?

--dick
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
2) I'd start by inspecting the wires on the backs of the door's pin contacts.

The black plastic pin assemblies pop out easily by poking a small screwdriver into the slots on the long sides and alternately tipping them. I found mine had fatigued and broken free. They are easily soldered, but be sure to hold the pin up against the spring or you will melt the surrounding black plastic and ruin the fitting.

-dave
 

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Helmach

New member
I solved it. It ended up being a mechanical issue, not an electrical one. The rear door latch has two stages. If you move it with your finger you can feel it latch twice. The latch sensor is only engaged on the second stage, when the latch is fully closed. My door was adjusted in such a way that even though it felt closed, it was not fully engaging the second stage of the latch. I adjusted the door so the second stage of the latch is fully engaged (this can be visually verified from the inside of the van). Now the locks all work perfectly...no more annoying "lock, unlock".
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
That's interesting ... usually, if the 2nd latch hasn't been engaged, it can be impossible to open the door with the handle.

If my sliding door isn't closed that *last millimeter* (fully seating the latch), it can't be opened.
To open it i have to push forward-and-inward on the barely protruding rear edge of the door. (with a 2x4 edge-on)

--dick
 

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