Need to Remove Power Side Mirrors

RJV

Active member
2004 2500, standard all plastic, one mirror, attached directly to door. I don't actually NEED to remove them, but I would prefer to remove them for refinishing as opposed to spraying in place. They're the powered version, which is why this is a pain. I've read the service manual. I unbolted the mirror from the door and took the interior door panels off with the intention of following the manual--but I did not see how it would be possible to fish the wiring harness back through the door to the control switch without it being a nightmare. I considered cutting the wires and then splicing them back together but I'd rather not disturb wiring if possible, as we all know the consequences of that. Also, there isn't a ton of slack in the wiring so even if I decided this route it would not be a great solution. I digress. Does anyone have an easier method or trick for removing a power side mirror? Ideally, I'd be able to remove the actual mirror(glass) itself then disconnect the wiring from inside the mirror housing. Likely wishful thinking. Thank you Sprinter friends.
 
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autostaretx

Erratic Member
The glass itself is (too?) easy to pop out ... Page 8G-9 in the 2006 manual:

FrontMirrorRemoval.png

So run the motors so it shows you the *ground*, and then push in at the bottom.
Then slide the glass up.

In the manual, they describe the "push in and lift" on Chapter 23's page 50.
The previous page describes removing the entire unit, and they obviously think the in-door connector can be snaked out.

... mine fell out one day due to a door-slam (the dealer installed the upper parabolic mirrors and had broken one of the plastic fingers that retained it). Breakage prevented by wiring "catching"it. It was possible to reseat it a bit better and it's been happy for the last 12 years.

--dick (2006 manual: http://diysprinter.co.uk/reference/2006-VA-SM.pdf )
 
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Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
I have the long arm mirrors on my 2004 but the mounting to the door is identical.

Open the door fully and pull the rubber convoluted wiring boot out from the body side. You should then find the electrical connection for the mirror. Unplug it and tie a length of string securely to the plug.

Unscrew the mounting screws holding the mirror to the door, you will need a long Torx bit (sorry can't remember size) to undo one of them.

A tip: place a strong magnet on the shank of the Torx bit to hold the screw onto the bit and prevent dropping it between the door skins.

Unhook the mirror from the door and carefully ease the wiring out and make sure the drawstring follows.

To refit, tie the drawstring to the plug and pull back through door, hook the plastic tang back into its location then refit the Torx screws. Reconnect the electrical plug and refit the boot then check everything works.

PS You do not need to remove the glass to remove the mirror.

PPS I did not touch the wiring going to the switch, this is a separate loom going through to the body.

Keith.
 
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Hbs

New member
2004 316cdi sprinter long arms, Just removed mine the other day, refurbished them and refitted them, RHD vehicle, passenger side worked perfect, drivers side started working and then stopped, there is 12v at each mirror, any suggestions
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Check the wiring for damage both inside the door and inside the A pillar by pulling the rubber boot off at both ends and carefully inspecting for signs of damage. A particular area is where the door check strap slides in and out of the door.

Keith.
 
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Reactions: Hbs

autostaretx

Erratic Member
The circuits for heating the mirrors are quite separate from the circuits for moving the mirrors.
Was your "12 volt" comment about the heater or the motor box?

The 4-way switch on the door totally supplies the motors.
To change directions it reverses the + and - to the motors.
When you're not actively pressing for motion, there should be no power to the motors.
Here's the US 2006 wiring diagram (should be the same for the UK/Aus, except pin numbers for driver/passenger?)
The wiring diagram was missing an internal switch connection plus the vertical switch numbers.
I may have left/right and up/down reversed, but at least they're consistent.
(and i would've had the right-most (labeled "Vert ?") feed go to the common, not as drawn)

MirrorWiringTop.png
MirrorWiringBot.png


--dick
 
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aspen

Member
One needs long torx bits to remove the mirrors, there's a small hole on the inside of the door with a plug over it (I have a 2004 dually).
You would need to pull on the wire gently and find a plug and disconnect it. Its easier with two people, kind of hard to hold the mirror when you are on the other side of the door.
 

Hbs

New member
The circuits for heating the mirrors are quite separate from the circuits for moving the mirrors.
Was your "12 volt" comment about the heater or the motor box?

The 4-way switch on the door totally supplies the motors.
To change directions it reverses the + and - to the motors.
When you're not actively pressing for motion, there should be no power to the motors.
Here's the US 2006 wiring diagram (should be the same for the UK/Aus, except pin numbers for driver/passenger?)
The wiring diagram was missing an internal switch connection plus the vertical switch numbers.
I may have left/right and up/down reversed, but at least they're consistent.
(and i would've had the right-most (labeled "Vert ?") feed go to the common, not as drawn)

View attachment 135203
View attachment 135204


--dick
Motors as every worked for a few minutes
 

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