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RJV
06-13-2019, 01:35 AM
I will soon replace my rusted transmission cooler lines off the radiator among other things in my 2004 2500. The fittings which connect the rusted metal lines to the flexible line section are also corroded, and I would rather not go to all the trouble of fixing only part of the problem--so I would like to replace that next section of flexible line as well. The issue then becomes MB has changed the parts for these lines, so now in order to change the flexible section I must change the entire line from the radiator all the way back to the transmission where it is connected via banjo bolts.

1. Does anyone have experience in this? I know that Billintomahawk does, but he has an 02 or 03 and in conversation with him it seems the setup is somewhat different.

2. The rigid metal line that connects to the transmission is held in place with U shaped guides. Unfortunately these U shaped guides appear to be held in place using (engine) oil pan bolts. Meaning, in order to secure the new line, I would have to remove 3 oil pan bolts(per side) concurrently. I'm due for an oil change, so I don't mind draining the pan--but does removing the 3 bolts on each side mean I will need to drop the entire pan and replace the gasket?

3. It has been suggested in other posts that using a high pressure fuel line and hose clamps it may be possible to replace certain sections of the line. Has anyone done this successfully? I'd prefer to replace the entire line and do it properly, but am open to being talked out of it.

4. I would prefer to use new banjo bolts and washers or at least have them on hand in case they are needed. Does anyone know where I can find them reasonably priced? I found the bolts for $15/each and the washers for $3/each but $13 shipping. So $46 for 2 bolts and 2 washers. I'll do it if I have to, but figured I'd ask around first. Part numbers are bolt 06507437aa(n915036010109) and washer 06507454aa(n007603014100).

Thank you.

Aqua Puttana
06-13-2019, 01:00 PM
The connections to the plastic radiator tank are likely seized. It is very probable that the radiator will be damaged during attempts at removal. I suggest to just bite the bullet and have a replacement radiator on hand.

...

3. It has been suggested in other posts that using a high pressure fuel line and hose clamps it may be possible to replace certain sections of the line. Has anyone done this successfully? I'd prefer to replace the entire line and do it properly, but am open to being talked out of it.

...
To avoid messing with the radiator connections I used transmission hose for a repair. A little over 2 years now and still in service.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55553

:cheers: vic

RJV
06-13-2019, 01:47 PM
The connections to the plastic radiator tank are likely seized. It is very probable that the radiator will be damaged during attempts at removal. I suggest to just bite the bullet and have a replacement radiator on hand.


To avoid messing with the radiator connections I used transmission hose for a repair. A little over 2 years now and still in service.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55553

:cheers: vic

The bullet was bitten last night when I ordered all the parts--including a new Nissens radiator.

I needed to order the parts last night in order to have them on hand to do the work next weekend, so I ordered the parts to do it all in worst case scenario. The radiator is original, so 15 years old now, figure it's a good time to do it.

Unless I hear from someone that has replaced the lines all the way back and can provide guidance on the oil pan bolt removal, I may just cut the lines ones disconnected, slide out the old rigid piece and then use zip tie or similar to attached the new lines to the U shaped guides, as it will not be possible to just slide the new ones into place due to bends in the line and the connection points at either end. I'll be sure to do a write up of that part of it.

Aqua Puttana
06-13-2019, 02:02 PM
On older vehicles often my goal is to disturb only what is necessary. There are many potential cans of worms.

Black cable ties should work fine. They've been holding my 2004 fuel lines in place for about 10 years now.

:2cents: vic

RJV
06-13-2019, 02:09 PM
To avoid messing with the radiator connections I used transmission hose for a repair. A little over 2 years now and still in service.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55553

:cheers: vic

I had seen this previously but wasn't sure I wanted to try to do a "repair". But now you've got me thinking--perhaps I could run flexible transmission hose from the radiator all the way back to rigid line and just leave the existing rigid line(which is not at all corroded) in place. This would eliminate the 2 metal lines that connect to the radiator and the existing flexible line that leads to the rigid transmission line. That would mean that my line from radiator to transmission would for all intents and purposes be corrosion resistant, which would be handy in Milwaukee. I would need to use some type of adapter on the radiator threads inlet/and outlet to reduce the size of the line to fit the flexible hose. Do you think that would work? I know that if using the original metal lines the threads merely hold the line in place--they do not create the seal. Wondering if that would make this plan a non starter. This would probably also save about $150 on parts.

Of course, another option would be replacing the metal lines that connect to the radiator, and then running flexible transmission hose from that to the rigid transmission line. I don't like this idea as much, but may be worth considering.

Hmmmm....

Aqua Puttana
06-13-2019, 02:30 PM
You have the parts. I would install them. Apply heavy duty wheel bearing grease or other protectant on the metal parts. The newest T1N is 13 years old. In the road salt northeast they don't last forever.

:2cents: vic