Wheel Bolt to Stud Conversion

megzz

Member
Anyone ever done a wheel bolt stud to conversion?

I'd like to do it to mine NCV3 319 which just runs standard Merc wheels. Anyone know what the thread specs are and the required length etc?

I've seen online that Agile Off Road do it but they incorporate a wheel spacer.




Tags**
wheel stud,stud conversion, wheel bolt to stud
 

Eric Experience

Well-known member
Meg.
I assume you are having trouble fitting the wheels, there is a very simple solution available it is a guide pin that screws into one of the screw holes, they are available but if you prefer to make one just get a bolt 14x1.5 and cut the head off, then screw it into the hub. Eric.
 
Anyone ever done a wheel bolt stud to conversion?

I'd like to do it to mine NCV3 319 which just runs standard Merc wheels. Anyone know what the thread specs are and the required length etc?

I've seen online that Agile Off Road do it but they incorporate a wheel spacer.




Tags**
wheel stud,stud conversion, wheel bolt to stud
Use the Agile studs and not the spacer...just make sure the lug nuts can accommodate the add'l 14mm stud length.
 

sailquik

Well-known member
megzz,
Care to explain WHY you wan to convert to studs?
Different wheels with a different offset or bolt pattern?
Trouble getting the bolts to line up when changing wheels?
What?
Roger
 

megzz

Member
I'm looking to change to studs because they are easier to work with. I know I can get a guide pin but I just like working with studs to be honest.
 

sailquik

Well-known member
Thanks for the why?
One further question, where will you source lug nuts with the correct conical seat configuration to match your stock
conical seat lug centric wheels?
I still don't understand why folks feel there is a need for guide pins.
Just jack the axle high enough so the weight is off the lug BOLTS, then exchange the wheels and use a tire iron or
big screwdriver to scoot/rotate the wheel until one of the lug bolt holes n the axle flange aligns with the conical
seat bolt holes in the replacement wheel. Scoot/rotate the wheel slightly until the 2nd lug hole aligns and then
replace all 5 or 6 lug bolts.
Super easy, no lifting of the heavy wheel and tire.
Learned this trick from tire guys who work on big 18 wheeler trucks all day that have very heavy Budd steel wheels.
They have tire irons (2 of them) and use the irons to rotate the wheel slightly until the lugs align and then tip the irons
up to slide the wheel on the lug studs.
Just changed a tire on my 519/3500 and the MB supplied jack handle worked nicely to align the wheel with the studs,
and also there is a tube welded on the RH rear of the spare tire carrier that works to add leverage to restow the spare.
Stick the jack handle in the tube and the added leverage makes getting the heavy spare tire back up into place
to engage the screw hooks really easy.
A little leverage makes the job super easy and you don't have to deal with the fulll weight of the wheel and tire.
Hope this helps,
Roger
 
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bobbydanger

New member
My opinion

These are what you want. these are the best quality studs you will find for this application. You could save some money on some other brand but do you really want to risk a wheel stud breaking? Especially on a vehicle with the size and weight of our sprinters.

https://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-981-718-products/986-987-981-718-interior~exterior/competition-wheel-studs-ea-ts1-detail.htm?repost=1&start=0&Count_Class_1_6300191=9517221#ITEM_6300191

These are likely a better quality metal than any lug bolt you can buy, in addition to the other features. Just make sure you order them with Ball Seat Nuts for factory wheels. If you have other wheels its up to you to know what you need. I always order a couple extra nuts and keep them on hand for if you kick and lose 1 or 2.

Also Carefully read the insulation instructions. use the torque specs they recommend. do not use factory torque specs with wheel studs. dont believe me? ask anyone who uses wheel studs on their race cars. general rule is 85ft lbs for 12mm 95ft lbs for 14mm

You could always use 3 studs and 3 bolts (staggered) for each wheel if using factory parts make you feel safer. You would get the "ease of use" effects of the studs with the "whatever false sense of protection" using the factory parts supplies.
 

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