Engine Removal Question

rbrennick

New member
2003 w/ a bad piston...

Couple of questions for those who have "been there:"

1. Easier to remove engine and transmission together, or
engine only?
2. I don't see any engine wiring harness main connectors- other
than what goes into the firewall/ main fuse box. So, disconnect
all engine connectors (injectors, sensors, etc) keep intact and let hang?
I have the intake manifold with the five separate tube runners-
looks to me that I have to remove it to get all of the electrics
off of the engine? Scratching my head on this right now.

Any tricks I should be aware of? Right now, I have all of the front stuff
off (condenser/intercooler/radiator/front bumper), PS disconnected, AC compressor off, all air and coolant hoses off, exhaust disconnected at turbo, fuel line from tank to filter off, etc.
Looks like my cherry picker will do the trick- looks tight to do a lift and
pull, but should be OK when I'm ready to remove?
Thanks,
Rich
 

rbrennick

New member
This guy kills me! (Didn't want to bother Andy on a holiday and all...)
Wonderful, enthusiastic gentleman who knows his stuff! :bow:

He got me squared away on my next steps and even offered
encouragement (which I need, as my wife won't)

Thank you!
Rich
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
Thanks for the kind comments.

Education really is a 2 way street. Contacting and working with group members adds to my extensive data base, keeps me on my tech toes and almost always leads to the expansion of knowledge here at the World Sprinter Research Center. Doktor A
 

Xames

Member
2002 sprinter here with the exact same question, except i have not removed the intake manifold yet. any help would be appreciated

James
 

312d

Member
my sprinter is manual, so differs a bit, but:
the front, rad, condensator, etc
cooling lines
injectors
vacuum lines
starter
some wires that goes above the housing clutch bell
shifting cables ( if you take out the transmision, but if you will only work on the engine let it put, so you can inspect the rear crankshaft seal)
the intake manifold to make more room above the engine
and i think thats it.
 

doug022984

Sporadic Member Since 2015
Hi, I realize this is an old thread, but the subject line matches my need. My NEW question for those who have removed their OM647 engine on a 2004-2006: Does the cross-plate (see attached photo) really need to be cut out with tin snips as the manual indicates in step (48) to remove the engine? Or can the engine be finessed out without cutting this piece? I would prefer not to cut it, but also don't want to get the engine free of the transmission and mounts and then realize I have to go cut it out while the engine is just hanging their precariously on my homemade lifting fixture that has yet to be tested.
 

Attachments

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Hi, I realize this is an old thread, but the subject line matches my need. My NEW question for those who have removed their OM647 engine on a 2004-2006: Does the cross-plate (see attached photo) really need to be cut out with tin snips as the manual indicates in step (48) to remove the engine? Or can the engine be finessed out without cutting this piece? I would prefer not to cut it, but also don't want to get the engine free of the transmission and mounts and then realize I have to go cut it out while the engine is just hanging their precariously on my homemade lifting fixture that has yet to be tested.
No Cutting Required--Shiver m' timbers
Simply raise the power pack enough to let the transmission balance effect weight down the back of the engine and out she will come!
A couple of Saturdays ago because it was brass monkey weather, I went into the shop, finished dressing an engine rebuild, pulled it out of the stand , attached the transmission and plonked it in the frame! I started at 8,30 am had it bolted on the mounts by 12,30pm.
All to surprise the guys, "hook it up and fire it".
That PM we were thrashing it up on I/70--bloody marvelous van the T1N--My all time favorite!
But you guys know that!
Dennis
 

NORTON

Member
I recently removed the engine and transmission from my 01 OM612 which may be different but remove the cabin filter plastic cover and keep the lifting arm really close to the cylinder head and as Dennis said " out she will come"
 

doug022984

Sporadic Member Since 2015
Thanks for the tips. I'll give it a go without cutting. I'm leaving the transmission in place so won't get the tilting effect from the transmission's weight, but will hopefully be able to strong arm it out. Bad weather here today though, so will have to try tomorrow or the next day.
 

NORTON

Member
By removing the engine and transmission together by a single lift point in the vicinity of injector 3 the unit can pivot and allow the front of the engine to rise when the trans end is lowered which allows clearance to go over the chassis brace.
If you leave the trans in then the engine has to be moved forward to disengage it which makes it difficult
 

doug022984

Sporadic Member Since 2015
UPDATE: Success! Even with leaving the transmission installed in the van, the engine exactly fit without cutting that cross-plate. I basically had to pull it out and have the face of the oil pan touching that cross-plate and then lift straight up and the shop crane just clears the body gasket. The torque converter was a stubborn SOB and elected to stay glued to the flexplate, so I lost a lot of my relatively brand new tranny fluid....but at least the engine is out.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Tip
When putting it back and marrying the trans to engine, obtain 2 off bolt from Ace Hardware 10 x90x 1.5 as guide bolts.
Offer the transmission close enough to the engine then insert the two guide bolts to the top two holes.
Align your torque converter to the flex plate indentations making sure it is bottomed in the transmission then slide and snug it up.

Makes the job a n easy one man affair and you won't be wrestling it all over the floor!
All the best
Dennis
 

FINNDIAN

Member
Tip
When putting it back and marrying the trans to engine, obtain 2 off bolt from Ace Hardware 10 x90x 1.5 as guide bolts.
Offer the transmission close enough to the engine then insert the two guide bolts to the top two holes.
Align your torque converter to the flex plate indentations making sure it is bottomed in the transmission then slide and snug it up.

Makes the job a n easy one man affair and you won't be wrestling it all over the floor!
All the best
Dennis
I removed my engine without trans. Won't get it rebuilt and back in until things warm up in the spring but thanks for the tip Dennis.

Gord.

sent from my wicked android thingy.
 

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