2.1L Warning. Codes - water pump replacement.

therealtimliu

New member
I have a 2014 Sprinter with a 2.1 4 cylinder Turbo. My water pump started leaking, so I just Replaced both the pump and the change over valve. So now i keep getting p261f and p0299a and p0299b. Before i did the job I was getting absolutely no codes and the truck was driving great. Now I can't get these to go away. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Re: Codes after water pump replacement. Need help please!

Now why did you not ask about the problems involved in changing the water pump before you started?
This issue you have reported and have asked help upon has been reported by me in posts on this as warning.

To repeat!~ The water pump being vacuum operated has sucked coolant into the vacuum control system going back as far the vacuum pump itself and might have even been discharged into the engine pan where water/coolant and engine oil don't go well together.

There is an MB bulletin on this as vacuum problems affecting the turbo, waste-gate & EGR valve throwing the codes you have published.

First it is recommended you remove the front cover and replace the vacuum hook pipe and O ring that feeds the water pump clutch control .
Most likely you will need to change out the vacuum line part# 9064300331 & change over valve 0025407097, this line contains a hidden check valve which gets contaminated with coolant.
The system MUST maintain & hold a minimum of 23" HG,
Additionally you must check the change over valve & switch & line from the vaccum pump to booster

Not an easy job, you might want to consult a dealer or very good Independant to resolve this.
The last "superdooper faulted head scratcher job we did like this ended up being $4000 to put right .
Dennis
 

98Firebird

Well-known member
MB has also revised the "front carrier" I believe it was 3 times last I looked when I had a van with this issue come in. I have been replacing the carrier after seeing that it's been revised multiple times in addition to what Dennis mentioned as the carrier has to be removed anyways to access the pipe. I would also advise checking all vacuum actuators for coolant contamination, as I have had a few vans come in not long after having the aforementioned repairs done elsewhere and a few thousand miles later being stuck during a trip due to a contaminated boost pressure regulator. I typically see issues with the regulator on the drivers side of the engine, down low. It's a bit of a bear to get to but you may save yourself some trouble in the future.
 

srt4ny

Active member
I want to replace my water pump and pulleys this weekend on the 2.1 for this reason i wont wait for it to fail any longer and just replace it my question is should i be replacing any of the valves or lines anything other than the pump and gasket???
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
MB has also revised the "front carrier" I believe it was 3 times last I looked when I had a van with this issue come in. I have been replacing the carrier after seeing that it's been revised multiple times in addition to what Dennis mentioned as the carrier has to be removed anyways to access the pipe. I would also advise checking all vacuum actuators for coolant contamination, as I have had a few vans come in not long after having the aforementioned repairs done elsewhere and a few thousand miles later being stuck during a trip due to a contaminated boost pressure regulator. I typically see issues with the regulator on the drivers side of the engine, down low. It's a bit of a bear to get to but you may save yourself some trouble in the future.
Yes!
Its the most troublesome part the 2,1 engine.
I breathed a sigh of relief when Honda got rid of vacuum controlled Mikuni carburetors back in the 80's . Now the vacuum controls are back with a vengeance!
Having found a considerable amount of coolant in an an engine caused by the vacuum pump dumping it into the pan , I suspect this might even be the cause of abrupt engine lock up!

Certainly, the presence of coolant in the lines is the big indicator you need to go further than just change the pump.
The cover or carrier arr' you mentioned is a bear just by itself!
Few dealers carry the gasket which VOR's the rig for 5 days to get the stuff from Germany and we have even stocked up on crank pulley retention bolts for the same reasons because it has to come off.
I think the hidden check valve in the vacuum line is the biggest thing system unfamiliarity throws into the mix but I have even found leaks/cracks at the vacuum tank.

Certainly not a good repair candidate for quick turn arounds nor sloppy repair practices.
Cheers Dennis
 

98Firebird

Well-known member
Yes!
Its the most troublesome part the 2,1 engine.
I breathed a sigh of relief when Honda got rid of vacuum controlled Mikuni carburetors back in the 80's . Now the vacuum controls are back with a vengeance!
Having found a considerable amount of coolant in an an engine caused by the vacuum pump dumping it into the pan , I suspect this might even be the cause of abrupt engine lock up!

Certainly, the presence of coolant in the lines is the big indicator you need to go further than just change the pump.
The cover or carrier arr' you mentioned is a bear just by itself!
Few dealers carry the gasket which VOR's the rig for 5 days to get the stuff from Germany and we have even stocked up on crank pulley retention bolts for the same reasons because it has to come off.
I think the hidden check valve in the vacuum line is the biggest thing system unfamiliarity throws into the mix but I have even found leaks/cracks at the vacuum tank.

Certainly not a good repair candidate for quick turn arounds nor sloppy repair practices.
Cheers Dennis
It blew me away when I took the class on the 651 engine a few years ago. I thought to myself we're out here trying to get the ball rolling on all electric vehicles and optimizing standard engines and here we have Mercedes stepping back to what most techs will agree was one of the worst periods of vehicle history as far as reliability, the vacuum age! I certainly don't like doing the carrier job at all it really is a bear, takes me a decent majority of the day to do all the repairs. I have seen a couple of the vacuum tank leaks you mentioned, Mercedes just can't seem to get it together as far as joining 2 part plastic assemblies together as I just recently worked on a metris with only 50k miles with the plastic charge pipe blown apart at the seams like the old 903/904 resonators!
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
It blew me away when I took the class on the 651 engine a few years ago. I thought to myself we're out here trying to get the ball rolling on all electric vehicles and optimizing standard engines and here we have Mercedes stepping back to what most techs will agree was one of the worst periods of vehicle history as far as reliability, the vacuum age! I certainly don't like doing the carrier job at all it really is a bear, takes me a decent majority of the day to do all the repairs. I have seen a couple of the vacuum tank leaks you mentioned, Mercedes just can't seem to get it together as far as joining 2 part plastic assemblies together as I just recently worked on a metris with only 50k miles with the plastic charge pipe blown apart at the seams like the old 903/904 resonators!
Well you are right of course. and I like the 651 series but Oh vacuum controls!!~
To understand why MB went down that tried and where others have failed on that rocky road I had to look at the turbo they are using which seems pretty universal for these types of applications. It has vacuum controls for every bit of the functioning modes as proprietary turbo .
So I think they were stuck with it warts 'n all due to pricing & supply constraints!
As for that carrier --Well the first one took us 9 hours and I think the thing could have been simplified a bit for ease of removal.
Yes manufactures rarely think of ease in maintenance & repairs at the workshop end .
It does however make us devise work arounds, which gets us the bonuses !:hmmm:
Cheers Dennis
 
D

Deleted member 50714

Guest
LI07.09-N-063338 allegedly has details related to this issue.
 
D

Deleted member 50714

Guest
No i do alot of miles my 2015 just rolled over 300’000.mi should i wait for it to fail
That's a tough call. I am a believer of "If it ain't broke don't fix it" mantra. However, 300k is significant miles. Perhaps consider scheduling pump R&R to coincide with serp belt and related component replacement?
 

98Firebird

Well-known member
LI07.09-N-063338 allegedly has details related to this issue.
You are correct sir, unfortunately it is not quite up to date as it was last updated in 2017 but here is the meat and potatoes of the document:

Complaint
Check engine light with some or all the following DTCs relating to the cooling / vacuum systems.

- P003313 - "The output for the switchover valve of bypass flap 'Charge air' has an electrical fault. There is an open circuit."

- P0299FA - "The boost pressure of turbocharger 1 is too low."

- P0299FB - "The boost pressure of turbocharger 1 is too low."

- P226100 - "The bypass flap 'Charge air' has a mechanical malfunction."

- P261F71 - "The output for the recirculation pump 'coolant' has a malfunction or does not switch on. The actuator is blocked."

- P012800 - "The coolant temperature is below the coolant thermostat specified temperature."

- P012809 - "The coolant temperature is below the coolant thermostat specified temperature. There is a component fault."


Cause
The above codes may be created by the following:

1- Vacuum Leak

2- Damaged O-Ring

3- Contamination: Coolant or Oil

4- Damaged water pump impeller

Remedy
1- Inspect the vacuum system for loose connections or cracked hoses

2- Smoke test or pressurize the system to detect a leak especially in the following known areas

-Water pump mounting plate

-Vacuum connection on water pump mounting plate

-Water pump O-ring

-Water pump vacuum line

-Water pump

-Vacuum manifold / Vacuum reservoir

Note: ONLY USE LOW PRESSURE MAXIMUM 1BAR / 14.7psi TO AVOID DAMAGES
3- Remove vacuum hoses from vacuum reservoir and look for the following

- Particulate matter

- Contamination of the inside of the vacuum connection

- Any signs of coolant and / or oil on the inside of vacuum connections on the vacuum reservoir

4 - Perform all Diagnostic procedure before replacing any parts.

5 - If coolant is found in the vacuum system replace the water pump, vacuum reservoir, change-over valve and clean the vacuum lines.

6 - If oil contamination is found in the vacuum system replace the vacuum pump, vacuum reservoir, Dashpot (Additional brake vacuum tank on 3500 models), brake booster and clean the vacuum lines.

7 - Remove and inspect water pump impeller for damage, replace as needed.
 

sprinterPaul

Well-known member
You are correct sir, unfortunately it is not quite up to date as it was last updated in 2017 but here is the meat and potatoes of the document:



Complaint

Check engine light with some or all the following DTCs relating to the cooling / vacuum systems.



- P003313 - "The output for the switchover valve of bypass flap 'Charge air' has an electrical fault. There is an open circuit."



- P0299FA - "The boost pressure of turbocharger 1 is too low."



- P0299FB - "The boost pressure of turbocharger 1 is too low."



- P226100 - "The bypass flap 'Charge air' has a mechanical malfunction."



- P261F71 - "The output for the recirculation pump 'coolant' has a malfunction or does not switch on. The actuator is blocked."



- P012800 - "The coolant temperature is below the coolant thermostat specified temperature."



- P012809 - "The coolant temperature is below the coolant thermostat specified temperature. There is a component fault."





Cause

The above codes may be created by the following:



1- Vacuum Leak



2- Damaged O-Ring



3- Contamination: Coolant or Oil



4- Damaged water pump impeller



Remedy

1- Inspect the vacuum system for loose connections or cracked hoses



2- Smoke test or pressurize the system to detect a leak especially in the following known areas



-Water pump mounting plate



-Vacuum connection on water pump mounting plate



-Water pump O-ring



-Water pump vacuum line



-Water pump



-Vacuum manifold / Vacuum reservoir



Note: ONLY USE LOW PRESSURE MAXIMUM 1BAR / 14.7psi TO AVOID DAMAGES

3- Remove vacuum hoses from vacuum reservoir and look for the following



- Particulate matter



- Contamination of the inside of the vacuum connection



- Any signs of coolant and / or oil on the inside of vacuum connections on the vacuum reservoir



4 - Perform all Diagnostic procedure before replacing any parts.



5 - If coolant is found in the vacuum system replace the water pump, vacuum reservoir, change-over valve and clean the vacuum lines.



6 - If oil contamination is found in the vacuum system replace the vacuum pump, vacuum reservoir, Dashpot (Additional brake vacuum tank on 3500 models), brake booster and clean the vacuum lines.



7 - Remove and inspect water pump impeller for damage, replace as needed.


I have a weeping water pump at 55K. No codes or issues other than the result of weeping. Is this like a normal water pump change since no faults are present?

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

therealtimliu

New member
So there was no coolant in the vacuum lines when i changed the pump and changeover valve. It was just coming out the weep hole onto the ground. I've checked the vacuum system and the only line that seems to not hold vacuum is the larger line from the changeover valve to the water pump. So I'm thinking I need to go back in there and change the vacuum hook pipe and O ring that feeds the water pump clutch control. Does that sound about right??
 
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therealtimliu

New member
Re: Codes after water pump replacement. Need help please!

So there was no coolant in the vacuum lines when i changed the pump and changeover valve. It was just coming out the weep hole onto the ground. I've checked the vacuum system and the only line that seems to not hold vacuum is the larger line from the changeover valve to the water pump. So I'm thinking I need to go back in there and change the vacuum hook pipe and O ring that feeds the water pump clutch control. Does that sound about right??
 

Anjay

Member
Well, as it happen my coolant is coming down in overflow tank. As I was reading this tread my knee got week and rush to check my water pump and vacuum lines. No sign of antifreeze. Good! Meantime I have vacuum lines to diverted valve and water pump disconnected. So I thought it would be great to have visual indication if antifreeze leak did happen and was getting into vacuum system. I have had on hand a see though fuel filter made of clear plastic so with couple length of silicon vacuum hose I made connection to water pump and diverted valve. It is located under air filter housing and right in front easy to see.
And I found coolant leak by one of clamps at the back of the engine. All good!
 

srt4ny

Active member
Well, as it happen my coolant is coming down in overflow tank. As I was reading this tread my knee got week and rush to check my water pump and vacuum lines. No sign of antifreeze. Good! Meantime I have vacuum lines to diverted valve and water pump disconnected. So I thought it would be great to have visual indication if antifreeze leak did happen and was getting into vacuum system. I have had on hand a see though fuel filter made of clear plastic so with couple length of silicon vacuum hose I made connection to water pump and diverted valve. It is located under air filter housing and right in front easy to see.
And I found coolant leak by one of clamps at the back of the engine. All good!
That seems like a good idea what did you use like a fuel filter from a small engine will it restrict the air flow?
 

220629

Well-known member
... I have had on hand a see though fuel filter made of clear plastic so with couple length of silicon vacuum hose I made connection to water pump and diverted valve. It is located under air filter housing and right in front easy to see.
And I found coolant leak by one of clamps at the back of the engine. All good!
Thanks for the input. :thumbup:

A picture would be helpful for many.

vic
 

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