Key No Turn Stuck Compilation

Some info about the NCV3 key being inoperative. Feel free to add pertinent information to this thread. If you have questions please start your own thread, or tag on to another thread.

Aqua Puttana said:

Key Barrel No Turn Rotate Move Stuck No Start??
It can be a bit complicated. This is not a Cheap Trick as such, but may save you time and aggravation on diagnosis. If a module fails the NCV3 key will not turn at all. (Unlike the older T1N model which will allow the key to turn, but gives a "Start error" message.)

FIRST
Check your battery voltage. The key will not turn if the battery is dead. No meter? A quick test is to turn on the headlights. If they glow brightly then your battery is likely OK.


Start with this information from Doktor A:
****
The (NCV3) system is a 'bit' more complex than earlier (T1N) 5 cyl Sprinters.

When you insert your coded key into the ign switch, the Electronic Ignition Switch/ Central Gateway (EIS/CGW) Module reads the key.

If the correct key is inserted the EIS/CGW unlocks the lock cylinder allowing rotation of the key. A message is then sent to the Electronic Steering Lock Control to actuate and unlock the steering column and allowing steering wheel rotation.

Faults in these modules require reading of the appropriate fault codes. Doktor A
****
Armed with that information, you may now proceed to the original thread which has a few basic things to try. Don't be surprised if they don't work.

Key wont turn need help
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11207

Another more recent thread with additional information.

Old keys refuse to work - can't start van
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12764

Can't turn key - 2007, 2008 Sprinters (yahoo group repost)
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=55063

Kunama said:

Just a reminder for NVC3 owners:

If you remove the ignition key while the front wheels are on full lock in either direction you may end up with the ignition key refusing to turn.

In my haste I made this mistake the other day and it took quite a bit of wrenching the steering wheel back and forth while removing and inserting the key before that "Click" sound was heard and the key turned.

All is well again

Click to expand...

Thanks goes to all contributors. vic

Click to expand...

2010 3500 Key won't turn all electrical dead
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22803

Electronic Steering Lock
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74873

lindenengineering said:

It could be mechanically stuck due to twist. Releasing the load off the column might allow the lock bolt to slid back by itself.

Electronically, the only surefire way is to scan the vehicle and observe the locking signal within the ESL communication train.
I am assuming of course that the battery and primary feed electrical system is up the battery voltage 12,3 volts???? Also that the shifter is showing P or N not only in the cab but on the scan tool as well.

If failure has occurred within the locking components my advice would be to drill off the sheer bolts holding the lock to the column and remove the lock assy. You can use 8 mm x 12 x1,25 allen head or cheese cap screws to refit it post repair .

With the lock off in your hand or half dangling and it still connected electronically go for a start.
If nothing, then remove the ignition key lock using a pair of long nosed pliers on the ring nut. Then the PCM and ship the lot to SOS Diagnostics. Expect to be VOR'd for 10 days!
It will get fixed on a bench for some lovely green piasters from you and then its just a plug & play repair.
Really you don't need a dealer for this repair job , or a shop like mine, although we do fix lot with this malady!
You are only held back by your own mechanical abilities remember.
All the best
Dennis

Click to expand...

vic

After spending a many hours researching and troubleshooting, I’m leaving this here and hopefully it may help someone in the future with the same issue.

I have a 2013 Roadtrek SS Agile on a 2012 sprinter chassis. The weather started getting cold here and when I attempted to start, i was unable to turn the key at all.

Usually when the key is inserted, you would hear a whirring noise, which is the steering lock mechanism unlocking the wheel, then you can turn the key to start the van. However this time it was just nothing, no lights, no whirring noise.

Based on my research the most common failure is the ESL which is the unit with motor that locks the steering wheel. When this fails there are basically a couple of options:

1) tow to the dealer, where usually they will replace BOTH the EIS and ESL ( both the ignition part which reads your key and steering wheel lock mechanism.) In my area, just a tow to the dealer will cost $750 and the repair bill upwards of $2k

2) if your ESL goes bad but the steering wheel is in the unlock position, you can save the money and buy a bypass/emulator tool that will plug into the harness and it will allow you to start the car.

3) If your ESL goes bad with the steering lock in the locked position, you will have to remove the steering column and drill out some bolts on the lock to be able to remove it (you cannot unbolt it since it is stuck in the locked position) after removal you can install the bypass/emulator.

4) If you are uncomfortable doing the work yourself and don’t want to tow it to the stealership, there are locksmiths that will do the above for you. However, you need to make sure to describe the above and that they do this kind of work. There is one in my area who had the bypass/emulator on hand and quoted me $750.

5) Try all the steps below. These are the things I did to fix:

• Checked chassis battery w multimeter (13.1v battery was good)
• Checked all fuses
• Tried wiggling steering wheel back and forth while trying to turn key, as recommended by others, no dice.
• I’ve read that others were having issues when it’s cold, so I ran a heater inside to warm up. (This makes sense if metal contracts in the cold, it will add resistance to the failing motor and it will not unlock the wheel)
• I read a post where someone put 14volts thru the ESL to get it to disengage. In theory, extra juice will help the motor overcome more resistance if it’s not completely dead. I went ahead and plugged in my battery jumper to my terminals to give it a bit more power to help the motor.
• I know that seized up motors, like the starter can sometimes be unseized by tapping on it with a rubber mallet. So I went ahead and did that to the ESL motor (this is attached to the steering column)
• I also cleaned out and pushed the connectors on the ESL harness.

After doing the above, I was eventually able to insert the key and heard the whirring noise that unlocked the steering wheel!

I went ahead and disconnected the ESL harness before turning the van off again so that the motor will not engage and risk getting the steering lock stuck again. Now my plan is to order an emulator/bypass (approx $40 shipped) and this should take care of the problem permanently.

At this point, if you are successful, you should either do the above or drive the van to the dealer immediately. Since you were already having problems with it, I strongly recommend being proactive as it may fix your issues temporarily and at a random time it can give out again and leave you out in the middle of nowhere, unable to start your van. This could easily double your repair costs.

I hope this helps someone in the future. Good luck!

I have a 2015 2500 170. I have a wireless cell charger bracket clipped to the dash vent right of the key and next to the radio. The first time my key didn't "unlock" the dash so to speak I spent an hour or two trying everything to no luck, all while my phone was sitting in the charger. I've found out through a round about way that if the phone in in the charger cradle, there is enough rfi interference to not allow the chip in the key to communicate to the key slot/dash receiver and allow the unlocking process and key to work.

So the fix for me every time is make sure my phone is not in the wireless charging cradle until I start the van. Works every time!

Good luck

Happened to me yesterday and almost drove me nuts trying to figure out why all of a sudden the steering lock will not disengage after a diesel fill up. I was at the gas station for a good 20 minutes. Checked all the fuses and disconnected the negative disconnect 3 x.
Pulled out my phone from the wireless charger to use the flashlight app and looked under the dash for loose connection in steering lock.
Put the negative disconnect back in and waited 3 minutes.
Put key in ignition and heard the Zzzzt!
It started !

Big lesson learned.! LOL.

Glad you got it going! I read that you pulled your phone out of the wireless charger to look around. Like I posted above, seems that the energy field around the wireless chargers is what affected the ignition release when you insert your key. Mine were originally mounter on the vent right above my key. As soon as I removed my phone from the charger the ignition cycled and released the lock. I replaced my wireless charger with a charge cord and never had the problem again. I even put the wireless charger with my phone inserted close to the key slot and was able to replicate the interference. Not saying this is a cure all, but its the first thing I'd check.

Good Luck

Yeah, had to go back to the corded charger. LOL.
It starts Everytime .
I moved the wireless charger to my Chevy Suburban. Haha.