Safe to drive with ABS, ESP, tire traction lights?

brothernature

New member
Hello,

I just had my rear wheel speed sensor replaced after the ABS, ESP and tire traction lights all came on. Everything was all good for about 100 miles, but now they just kicked back on. I have to drive about ~12 hours total this Wednesday and I'm not sure I'll have time to get it checked out before. Is it safe to do the drive with the lights on? The brakes seem a little hard and I don't want to cause any long term damage.

Thanks.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
It might have walked out and increased the air gap.
Give the perception head a judicious tap with hammer to see if it will seat against the the tone ring.
Dennis
 

MillionMileSprinter

Millionmilesprinter.com
It is totally safe to drive with those lights on in the sense that it won't damage anything. However, those lights being on indicate that the functions are turned OFF. That means no ABS or any kind of traction control in the event of an emergency avoidance maneuver.
Basically you'll be driving like many vehicles were 30 years ago.
Also, you will most likely be in limp mode. Probably, because the fault is speed related, the TCM will lock you in 2nd gear. Top speed 45mph at 4000rpm. This Limp Mode will probably deter you from making a looong drive more than the lack of traction control.
But I have, in my past, driven a Sprinter in limp mode, many many hours. It was no fun, but it's certainly possible.
 

220629

Well-known member
First. It could be absolutely safe to drive with no fear of limp mode, or it could be very unsafe.

First. Very unsafe.
You are assuming that your dash lights are related to your latest problems/repairs. They may be, or it could be that your brake light #5 fuse has blown and you now have no brake lights. The first thing to do is to verify that your brake lights work. If they don't work, you need to resolve that problem.

Assuming that your brake lights are fine.
The dash warnings you mention come on when the computers monitoring the driving safety systems detect a fault. My theory is that if the systems return to normal, they will be allowed to work. Just because the dash lights come on doesn't necessarily mean that none of the safety systems are working.

I have driven for hundreds of miles with those three lights on. You are likely driving as we did with 30 year old technology, but your biggest inconvenience will likely be that the cruise control doesn't work.

If your brake lights are working, the brakes are working, and there are no other driveability symptoms or issues you should be fine.

Just my opinions.

:2cents: vic
 
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Patrick of M

2005 T1N 2500 (NA spec)
Anecdotally: Occasionally when I hit a big bump during a curve (or at least while steering input is turning) I will confuse the stability control systems and the Xmas tree lights up. This particular fault still allows me to use the cruise control, and if I am on a highway in dry conditions I will continue until the next planned stop, where a simple on/off cycle clears it. This happens so rarely (2-3 times a year) that I haven’t actually tried to trace the fault.
The OP does not mention if the system resets with an on/off cycle.
If I had a problem that was constant I would want to know what had caused it and go from there.
You have to do what you have to do but I’m not fond of driving diasabled ABS as I question whether the brake balance with disabled abs is actually as good as a 30 yr old van (vans in the 80s had load sensors for reducing rear lock up when lightly loaded as well as hydraulic bias adjusted front/rear. I imagine the front/ rear bias is still integrated into modern braking system, otherwise the abs would cycle more often).
 

220629

Well-known member
... (vans in the 80s had load sensors for reducing rear lock up when lightly loaded as well as hydraulic bias adjusted front/rear. I imagine the front/ rear bias is still integrated into modern braking system, otherwise the abs would cycle more often).
Good point about the load proportion factor. From 2004 on the load proportion is a ESP/electronic thing (except for cab chassis for a time). The basic front/rear bias is still a function of hydraulics/mechanicals in design. Someone with a RV or otherwise heavily loaded Sprinter should slow down until repairs are effected. Slowing down is a simple safety measure that many forget about.

I've always lost CC with those lights on. As you say, the root problem(s) likely affect that.

:cheers: vic
 
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micgyver

New member
My lights where on and I found my cruise control stopped working at the same time. I told My mechanic to change the sensor but while he was under there, he cleaned all the metal filings off the sensor and change my emergency breaks at the same time. No problems now, Cruise works no abs lights and no more flat spots on my tires cause it doesn't lock up when I try to stop now.
 

Patrick of M

2005 T1N 2500 (NA spec)
My lights where on and I found my cruise control stopped working at the same time. I told My mechanic to change the sensor but while he was under there, he cleaned all the metal filings off the sensor and change my emergency breaks at the same time. No problems now, Cruise works no abs lights and no more flat spots on my tires cause it doesn't lock up when I try to stop now.
Wow you are flat spotting your tires! Time to enter that van in some races, Sterling Moss!
 

Matt Foley

Down by The River
Those lights come on for me in high crosswinds. No affect on LHM or cruise control. Van still drove 70mph+ and cruise worked fine.
 

hulagun

Haulin' A** since 1974
I drove mine that way for at least 20k before getting them fixed. It drove fine except once in loose gravel up a hill. According to what my shop told me, things that may turn these lamps on may include a bad brake light switch.
 

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