Won't start no dash lights (2003 OM612) after parked 10 min

After walking out of the store, I turned the key to crank my Sprinter and got no dashlights (no flash), no cranking, no clicking. ANY ADVISE ON FUSES, relays, OR POINTS TO CHECK?

No luck with cleaning the terminals or jump starting. When I reconnect the battery the odometer light comes on for 10-20 seconds, then goes off. Additionally, the red arrow lights on the power lock buttons stay illuminated (the actual power locks haven't worked since buying the van; fixing them is down on the list, but at least the lights work)...

I bought the van a month ago, a 2003 refrigerated 2500 SHC 140" with 100k, but I can tell it has been sitting for a while, and have been slowly going through the various systems. Any constructive advise would be greatly appreciated.

THANKS!

This can happen with a corroded ground connection to either engine or battery,
water dripping from A pillar onto ECU,
or lose connection on top of fuse box under steering wheel, lifting up on fuse box while pushing down on Emergency flasher switch might fix connection

Or bad key ignition switch

In the real estate business, there’s an old saying about the three most important features that determine the value of a property: location, location, location.

In automotive diagnosis, similar conclusion should be followed, grounds, grounds, grounds.

https://www.mbwholesaleparts.com/content/dam/microsites/mb-wholesale-parts/pdf/1306-mbst-Battery.pdf

https://www.mbwholesaleparts.com/co...holesale-parts/pdf/Connections-Come-First.pdf

Bobnoxious said:

In the real estate business, there’s an old saying about the three most important features that determine the value of a property: location, location, location.

In automotive diagnosis, similar conclusion should be followed, grounds, grounds, grounds.

Click to expand...

Bob,

Your posts on Grounds are getting boring, even to the point you are now telling a T1N owner to check his firewall disconnect ground!

For your info T1N's DO NOT HAVE a firewall disconnect, they where only introduced for the NAS market with the NCV3 model. T1N's actually have the starter battery located under the hood.

Keith (T1N owner).

Cheyenne said:

Bob,

Your posts on Grounds are getting boring, even to the point you are now telling a T1N owner to check his firewall disconnect ground!

For your info T1N's DO NOT HAVE a firewall disconnect, they where only introduced for the NAS market with the NCV3 model. T1N's actually have the starter battery located under the hood.

Keith (T1N owner).

Click to expand...

My humble apologies kind sir, and thank you for the correction and accept I will endeavor to be perfect like you. My pre-composed contribution is corrected. I am human and, on occasion, "overlook things and make mistakes."

You may find my "Ground posts" boring but other, less knowledgeable people, may not, and perceive your comment as an attempt to bolster your lack of self-esteem and minimize my contributions to help others in distress. In the future, I'll stay outta the jalopy threads.

Ciao,
Da NOx

Back to the original question: i know your electronic locks are not working, but i need to ask:

Do you have the Remote Entry (RKE) option? (i.e the key fob with 2 buttons).

If you DO have Remote Entry, then the following does NOT apply:

Without RKE, the Sprinter has to sense the key's RFID chip before it will even crank.
But it *still* should turn on the instrument panel "trouble lights" for their 3 second "test period".

I agree with Nelson's "bad ignition switch" as the first guess, and there's always the "broken fuse block 1" issue as a 2nd guess.
Bad grounds throughout can also contribute (especially if the dash doesn't light up)

Question: does the odometer display light up when you open the driver's door? (key not in ignition).
If it does NOT light up, that kind'a takes the ignition switch out of the picture as a source of the problem.

--dick

Thanks for the help everyone. Wiggling a black wire with a red connector to the left of the fuse box just under the steering wheel got the dash lights to turn on and start. I couldn't find the end of the wire, but will follow it to the end this weekend and re-secure everything, and trace my wiring harness and re-secure/insulate any exposed wires. Thanks again!

Wabamo said:

Thanks for the help everyone. Wiggling a black wire with a red connector to the left of the fuse box just under the steering wheel
...

Click to expand...

It may not be the conductor you are wiggling. My 2004 FB#1 would respond to wiggling external wiring. After a couple remove/inspect operations I finally identified a bad solder joint.

Some info s here.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=374375#post374375

vic

Thanks for the advice! Tomorrow I'm going to take the dash apart and follow the wires to all connections and check for failure points. While I'm in there I will investigate my other issues including:
1. Brights will flash but not stay on (will check MFS)
2. Wipers increase excursion each pass until going off the windshield.
3. Right turn signal relay increases speed when brake is applied intermittently
4. Door solenoids don't respond to switch
5. Cruise control works intermittently and indicator light never works
6. Additionally will change fuel filter (intermittent WIF light)
7. May investigate fuel tank leak (only when full, probably vents

Thanks for the help again

Wabamo said:

Thanks for the advice! Tomorrow I'm going to take the dash apart and follow the wires to all connections and check for failure points. While I'm in there I will investigate my other issues including:
1. Brights will flash but not stay on (will check MFS)

Click to expand...

Do you use DRL only? Of yes, the high beams will only work if the headlamps are enabled using the stalk twist switch.
Tips for New to Sprinter Owners
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23409

Wabamo said:

2. Wipers increase excursion each pass until going off the windshield.

Click to expand...

Check that the splines aren't worn. Are the arm nuts tight?

Wabamo said:

3. Right turn signal relay increases speed when brake is applied intermittently

Click to expand...

The tail light assemblies can develop connection problems. Check grounds.
Some info is here.
ABS ESP Traction Lights On Brake Light Fuse (#5?) Blown Shift Locked
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=99430#post99430

Wabamo said:

4. Door solenoids don't respond to switch

Click to expand...

Wabamo said:

5. Cruise control works intermittently and indicator light never works

Click to expand...

There is no "Cruise On" indicator.
First adjust the stop light switch.
Brake Switch Adjust
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6379

Wabamo said:

6. Additionally will change fuel filter (intermittent WIF light)

Click to expand...

Check for harness or wire grounding issues while in there.

Wabamo said:

7. May investigate fuel tank leak (only when full, probably vents)
...

Click to expand...

A high volume truck pump fill can pressure the fuel tank and unseat vent components. It could be vent related.

vic

The fuse block can develop internal faults which are difficult to find, or replicate. So if you can't find an obvious cause, the FB1 is a likely replacement, and not terribly expensive.