2004 T1N Intermittent Start Issues

lwbdriver

New member
The last 3-4 days have been a trial. In the mornings with outside temp in the teens (F) I get in and when I turn the key...nothing. Dash lights all come on but no sound at all. There is a "start error" warning on the dash. I turn the key off and after 3-4 more tries, it will start and run great. It is happening more often now and even when the engine is warm. It has always started, but I am afraid it will just decide not to. I haven't had the codes read yet.

In the last year I have put in a new turbo, MAF sensor, radiator, water pump and misc coolant related stuff, A/C work, new alternator and more. Just this morning I had to have the tailpipe welded back on to the muffler. I have never had to spend this kind of money to keep any of my vehicles going. Every month it is something else. I bought it at 185,000 miles and now have 211,000 on it. I love the truck, but it doesn't love me back!

Any input on the no start problem will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
 

rogerball0

UK Spec 2002 LWB 311 CDI
The last 3-4 days have been a trial. In the mornings with outside temp in the teens (F) I get in and when I turn the key...nothing. Dash lights all come on but no sound at all. There is a "start error" warning on the dash. I turn the key off and after 3-4 more tries, it will start and run great. It is happening more often now and even when the engine is warm. It has always started, but I am afraid it will just decide not to. I haven't had the codes read yet.

In the last year I have put in a new turbo, MAF sensor, radiator, water pump and misc coolant related stuff, A/C work, new alternator and more. Just this morning I had to have the tailpipe welded back on to the muffler. I have never had to spend this kind of money to keep any of my vehicles going. Every month it is something else. I bought it at 185,000 miles and now have 211,000 on it. I love the truck, but it doesn't love me back!

Any input on the no start problem will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
When i had a 'Start error' appear on my display it was a faulty EMR (engine management relay) located on the right hand side end of fuseboard, theres two relays side by side and one of them is what will stop the van starting. Spent days trying to figure out the problem, i forget who told me to try a new relay and it worked - cost £10 here in the UK.

Just a thought
 

Luc

Member
And a start error message can come from the key chip not being read properly. Maybe the sensing ring on the ignition switch is not fastened properly, or the conector is faulty or has come loose?
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Cold temperatures can cause iffy connections/connectors to become more intermittent than when they're warm.
Hot/cold cycles can cause some (whose latches are loose or broken) to 'creep' apart.

The cold can also affect "weak" ECM computer memory from delivering the correct answers. (such as RFID key code).

A proper Sprinter-smart scanner can report if the current key is being recognized by the SKREEM system.

The more-humid-than-usual-with-condensation conditions of winter can put moisture into places where it can affect weak (such as RFID-sensing) signals.

If you do NOT have remote-key doors, the 'Start Error' message will block you from cranking.
If you DO have remote-key doors (like me), then even a failed-to-detect RFID signal still allows cranking, but the engine will die within 2 seconds afterwards.

--dick
 

lwbdriver

New member
After a couple more days....the non starting/error issue is very sporadic. Even when warm, it will sometimes not crank and the error message shows up. Very hit and miss. I'd say about one in every 5 times I try to start it, I have to try several times for it to start. I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and have the codes read. They charge $89 to do that at both the independent shop and the dealership. I do have the spring out key "clicker" with the buttons to lock/unlock doors remotely. Silly question...can weak batteries in the clicker cause these symptoms?
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
No, weak batteries in the clicker only affect opening the doors.

The fact that it doesn't even *crank* (at times) points to two possible weak points:
(a) the starter relay ... it's the lower rightmost one on the seat-side fuse/relay panel
(b) the "start" contacts in your ignition switch

You can just swap the two relays on the panel as a quick test (mind you, if it's a bad relay that might impact your in-tank fuel pump).



--dick
 
I had that problem three years ago, along with "start error" the auxiliary fan at the front radiator also went on when it got cold out. I ended up replacing the #1 fuse box under the steering wheel and that solved the problem. About $100. From what I read on this forum the solder joints crack. I took the fuse box apart and was amazed at how complicated MB made it.
 

Top Bottom