Brake line replacement 2002 2500. Another nightmare?

So just when we got this thing running a brake line broke . It's been in the NE for a long time so the lines were rusted. I've been doing some quick research and am starting to get nervous again. PLEASE tell me that I can buy factory pre-formed replacement lines and remove and replace the old ones without having to drop that gas tank. I have no way to bend my own in my suburban garage. It was bad enough rebuilding the fuel rail solenoid and spending four hours changing the fuel filter. Is there ANY repair that doesn't involve a lengthy process? If anyone knows an OEM supplier for the brake lines I'm in need. Thanks everyone.

It's not that bad, job took me about a day for both rears, working slowly. I routed around the gas tank. I bought straight long sections of nickel copper tubing to start with- very easy to bend without special tools, or you can buy the bending tools if you want it to look perfect. I recommend buying a bunch of couplers so you can splice pieces together if you make a mistake. Get the best quality flaring tool you can, cheap ones are hard to keep centered and waste more time than the savings. Replace rubber hoses at the same time, they're cheap. If you can buy extra line clips that would screw to the chassis with self-tapping screws, that would help too. All might be available from local auto parts store but I went with ebay because it was convenient when not in a rush.

dbrown8804@yahoo.com said:

... PLEASE tell me that I can buy factory pre-formed replacement lines and remove and replace the old ones without having to drop that gas tank.
...

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I can tell you that as you request, but it wouldn't be true.

The latest information which I recall for brake lines is that even the MB OEM lines come straight and need to be custom formed to fit.

To follow the original path the fuel tank needs to be dropped. It is possible to fit the replacement brake lines DIY around the tank. Be certain to choose a route that is tucked up and away from possible road debris damage.

The replacement lines can be hand formed, but a small bender makes for a better and easier job.

Some replacement info and comments for forming the brake lines is here.

Steel Brake Line General Info
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26307

vic

Yep, this confirms what I've been seeing in my research. Guess my skills at fabricating brake lines will have to be developed. Are there connectors that I can use that don't require a flare tool for fitting? Seems I saw ones in a YouTube video. Trying to make this as idiot proof as possible.

dbrown8804@yahoo.com said:

... Are there connectors that I can use that don't require a flare tool for fitting? Seems I saw ones in a YouTube video. Trying to make this as idiot proof as possible.

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Nope. Not if you want to flare. Not while making a safe system.

Just use premade brake lines Euro bubble flare and unions. Read my posts. I didn't use any flare tool.

vic

We used a local shop which made and installed all brake lines. Price was like less than $200 and took bit over a day since they were working short days due to summer heat.
Alot easier and cheaper than ordering OME ones and quicker, one shop referred us to other one due to hassle he encountered in placing order trying order them.

BTW: Check solid metal block connector at change over from hard line to rubber, rubber ones didn't hold pressure after hard lines installed.
If under their check your fuel lines, too!

There is nothing like a ending a great weekend of mountain-top camping, and finding that when you go to drive off your leveling ramps the brake pedal hits the floor!

Originally I had thought that I must have kicked up a rock to damage the brake line, but I now attribute the break to my long tall T1N Sprinter body flexing the old rusted lines while traveling up a very rough unpaved trail, as the break was in a spot that nothing could have bumped it.
The lines fail where the clips holding them to the body rub and flex damaging the plastic coating allowing them to rust out.

More concerning was the fact that with only the brake line was damaged, I was completely without brake pressure for all 4 wheels.
I was unsuccessful trying fold and crimp the line, too old and brittle. So, I had to cut in and add a temporary piece and did a gravity bleed to that caliper to get back home.

I ran new lines using Nickel-Copper tubing, which I felt was much easier to work with than the steel lines, and yes I did check with the dealer regarding new lines and they do NOT come pre-bent, so why bother!

You'll need a bubble flare tool to do the job correctly, I also purchased a tubing reamer and plier-like bending tool for the job.

Since my 2002 had what I found to be a frozen/inoperative rear brake proportioning valve, I was able to form the new lines without it, and it must have been stuck in the "empty van" position as the van stops even better now. The ABS was unaffected, even on loose surfaces I am not getting any wheel lockup without it.

I did run down to near empty and dropped the fuel tank to run the lines, as I wanted to keep them as close to the original positions for protection while driving on unpaved roads/trails where I camp.

The most difficult part, to me at least, were the bends closest and connecting to the ABS unit.

I used a Motive power bleeder along with my D.A.D. tool bleeder function to remove the air bubbles.

FYI, if you do get stuck with a leaking line, the best way to get home is to plug the leaking line right at the port where it comes out of the ABS unit. I purchased and tested brass plugs used to block off unused master cylinder ports on dune buggies.



Our crafty pal Aqua Puttana fashioned similar plugs from the old threaded brake line hardware with a screw threaded into it... and soldered them shut as well?

Here is a Forum link to Vic's thread on brake line replacement:

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26307

I have a bubble flare tool and find bubble flares easier to make and more reliable that double flares. It’s really not hard, I have been making brake lines for vehicles forever. You can buy the premade straight runs with ends on them, but the savings and convenience of doing your own flares is significant. Big roll of tubing, flare tube, and reuse as many of the screw fittings as possible, buying new as needed.

LuckyDawgz Jim said:

...
The lines fail where the clips holding them to the body rub and flex damaging the plastic coating allowing them to rust out.
...

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I've learned to smear wheel bearing grease anyplace on the lines which may collect muck to rust.

LuckyDawgz Jim said:

...
FYI, if you do get stuck with a leaking line, the best way to get home is to plug the leaking line right at the port where it comes out of the ABS unit. I purchased and tested brass plugs used to block off unused master cylinder ports on dune buggies.

Our crafty pal Aqua Puttana fashioned similar plugs from the old threaded brake line hardware with a screw threaded into it... and soldered them shut as well?

Click to expand...

I carry my DIY plugs with me now too.

No solder. I used a small finishing nail with epoxy. The head is in the bubble flare end. In the field any removed fitting could easily plugged using 5 minute epoxy and a chopped off finishing nail, or maybe a hairpin of wire. The nail or wire is mostly to keep the epoxy from flowing out of where needed.

I always chop the line before removal so I can use a 6 point wrench or socket. Epoxy inside a cleaned cut off/crimped removed fitting ain't going anywhere. Be certain to clean everything completely before applying the epoxy.

vic

Patrick of M said:

I have a bubble flare tool and find bubble flares easier to make and more reliable that double flares. It’s really not hard, I have been making brake lines for vehicles forever. You can buy the premade straight runs with ends on them, but the savings and convenience of doing your own flares is significant. Big roll of tubing, flare tube, and reuse as many of the screw fittings as possible, buying new as needed.

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Agreed, and since I have other vehicles to do as well I purchased an (overpriced) brake line straightener from Eastwood with a 20% off coupon that made doing the long rear lines much easier.

LuckyDawgz Jim said:

Agreed, and since I have other vehicles to do as well I purchased an (overpriced) brake line straightener from Eastwood with a 20% off coupon that made doing the long rear lines much easier.

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That tool is clever, need to get one, it’ll make my next brake job prettier.

Patrick of M said:

That tool is clever, need to get one, it’ll make my next brake job prettier.

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Eastwood Handheld Tubing Straighteners
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-handheld-tubing-straighteners.html?SRCCODE=TXT00020&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxaWdm5Lx3wIVGozICh0zwQuKEAAYASAAEgIHg_D_BwE

I just threaded the tubing thru it right off the roll and it comes out perfectly straight, as I worked my way from one end of the van to the other.

It can even straighten out tubing bent incorrectly, up to a point, if the bends are too tight the tubing will not feed thru the tool.

It paid for itself in time savings and lack of aggravation.

LuckyDawgz Jim said:

...

It can even straighten out tubing bent incorrectly, up to a point, if the bends are too tight the tubing will not feed thru the tool.
...

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I don't have personal experience, but a truck mechanic warned me that straightening CuNi bends can create weak spots for cracking vs steel. Obviously not right off the roll, but after tighter bends used for fit/installation.

FWIW.

vic

Aqua Puttana said:

I don't have personal experience, but a truck mechanic warned me that straightening CuNi bends can create weak spots for cracking vs steel. Obviously not right off the roll, but after tighter bends used for fit/installation.

FWIW.

vic

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I only use Nickel-Copper anymore, and that tubing is very forgiving.
Even so I would avoid any straightening that was just more than a slight bend.

This question might sound stupid, but I haven’t cracked open any of the brake lines yet (I’m currently buying stuff to be ready for spring).

What type of M10 x 1.0 fittings are used on the system : bubble flare or double flare?

Thanks!


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Luc said:

This question might sound stupid, but I haven’t cracked open any of the brake lines yet (I’m currently buying stuff to be ready for spring).

What type of M10 x 1.0 fittings are used on the system : bubble flare or double flare?

Thanks!


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Bubble Flare

I'm having a hell of a time finding a bubble flare brake line plug here in Canada... I even went to my local hydraulic shop and they didn't have anything that was long enough to work.

Vic, I'm wondering if you have a picture of that "finish nail - expoxyed into a fitting" plug that you fashioned? I'm not sure I see it correctly.

Another thought I had is to use a standard M10x1.0 bubble flare fitting, and then make a bubble flare on a short piece (2") of copper-nickel pipe, and then cripm the protruding end with pliers and just silver braze that end? That would work right?

Luc said:

I'm having a hell of a time finding a bubble flare brake line plug here in Canada... I even went to my local hydraulic shop and they didn't have anything that was long enough to work.

Vic, I'm wondering if you have a picture of that "finish nail - expoxyed into a fitting" plug that you fashioned? I'm not sure I see it correctly.

Another thought I had is to use a standard M10x1.0 bubble flare fitting, and then make a bubble flare on a short piece (2") of copper-nickel pipe, and then cripm the protruding end with pliers and just silver braze that end? That would work right?

Click to expand...

That’s what I would do

Luc said:

...

Vic, I'm wondering if you have a picture of that "finish nail - epoxied into a fitting" plug that you fashioned? I'm not sure I see it correctly.

...

Click to expand...

It's nothin' fancy.



vic

Aqua Puttana said:

It's nothin' fancy.



View attachment 106580



vic

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Ahhhhhhh!!!! I seeeeee.
Thanks a bunch!


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