New to me T1N - 02 sensor Codes and more

New to the forum, been reading a lot since I got my 2005 high top 2500. Love it. Little background info... Got it with 191,000 miles for $5,500 about 2 months ago. 21 mpg mixed driving per tank. 21.7 best tank so far(been tracking each tank, 7 fill ups so far). Much better then the 11.4 I was getting in my 2003 Sierra Denali. And much better to work out of then a pick up truck. I am a residential carpenter, so need to lug around a decent amount of tools. Anyways... other then a couple little things everything is going good. One thing I can't seem to figure out and would like to, I was getting 02 sensor code P0131 so I changed the 02 sensor with new Bosch 02 sensor, reset codes, and the light came back on within 10 miles. I am getting 3 codes, p0132, p0053 and p2245 . Any ideas? I traced back the wires as best I could, whatever is obvious and dont see anything shooting out to me to say problem. All I have is one of those $100 autozone code readers and a scan gauge. Just ordered the GDE tune, but doubt that will fix it. This is at the top of my list of things I would like fixed, want to get rid of that check engine light and maybe get even better mileage.

While I'm at it...instead of starting a new thread , a little run down

1.The "Service B" light came on. 2 wrenches at start up with the number 600? Still trying to figure out what exactly service b means. How do I know what exactly needs to be serviced?
2.Fuel filter has some fuel pooling up in the top center, sensor? So will be replacing that
3. In the near future I want to do the rumble strip noise fix, it happens frequently enough that it can definitely use attention. (Drop pan, change filter, fluid and drill hole in metal plate?)
4. No air to feet or defrost(none)- open up dash and diagnose/lube cables. Turn dial is very hard to turn
5. Windshield and/or A pillar leaking when raining. If I have a piece of paper up on the dash, anywhere, it gets wet if all the way up by windshield, and steady dripping when raining coming from bottom of a pillar on driver side.
6. There is a small but constant coolant leak, about the size of a half dollar every morning. Seems to be coming from above the alternator. When I get under there, there are drips hanging onto the hose right under the alternator, and an oil pan bolt. Dried up crusty trails on bottom of oil pan, passenger side of alternator and around a big hose near the alternator. Not sure about this one, but probably my second most important issue I would like resolved. I read there could be a bolt/plug above the alternator that could loosen up, this would be best case scenario and probably wishful thinking. Gotta get some time to figure out how to remove the alternator and check that. If not, hard to locate exactly where it's coming from.
That's about it, sounds like a lot? It's really not, I'm really happy with the van overall. No oil leaks, grease, grime or signs of it. Engine bay and everything is pretty damn clean.

I been doing my reading and searching and researching..but any pointers, tips suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

If u r going to do your own servicing you will need a better scanner. There is a scanner forum on this site.
3. Re RSN often an oil and filter change is all that is required to get rid of it almost completely.
5. Sometimes externally applied high quality caulking can fix this.
6. Coolant leaks travel and are blown so finding the source can difficult. Tensioner/idler and waterpump replacement can be part of regular maintenance, and will eliminate the WP as a source, but that is a bigger job so u may find a simpler solution.

What year Sprinter? And yes, start with a better scanner.

Thanks for the replies. It's a 2005.
I will start with just a fluid and filter change on the transmission, better off then start drilling holes in things if that can help eliminate/reduce the noise.
As far as scanners, I'll look more into those threads. Would love to get one of those DAD units, other then that, it seemed like my options were rather limited without getting something super expensive. But I'll do some more research on that. I am not a mechanic by any means, but definitely prefer to try to do it myself if I can. Certainly try before bringing it somewhere.

Ultimat777 said:

Thanks for the replies. It's a 2005.
I will start with just a fluid and filter change on the transmission, better off then start drilling holes in things if that can help eliminate/reduce the noise.
As far as scanners, I'll look more into those threads. Would love to get one of those DAD units, other then that, it seemed like my options were rather limited without getting something super expensive. But I'll do some more research on that. I am not a mechanic by any means, but definitely prefer to try to do it myself if I can. Certainly try before bringing it somewhere.

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https://sprinter-source.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=205 For scanners.
Personally the Autel MD802 all systems works for me (aprox $200 and has paid for itself repeatedly)
Btw the o2 sensor problem could easily by wiring harness/chaffing issue.

Ultimat777 said:

1.The "Service B" light came on. 2 wrenches at start up with the number 600? Still trying to figure out what exactly service b means. How do I know what exactly needs to be serviced?

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That means you're 600 miles from the end of a 10,000 mile service interval.
(it'll go to negative numbers when you pass the 10k miles)

As a quick arm-wave, Service A is oil and filter; Service B is oil, filter, fuel filter, air filters.

Some of this is in the owner's manual: http://www.diysprinter.co.uk/reference/2005_Sprinter_Owners_Manual.pdf

4. No air to feet or defrost(none)- open up dash and diagnose/lube cables. Turn dial is very hard to turn

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You also need to lubricate the plastic cam slots and followers that are directly behind the knob. White grease if accessible, otherwise:

5. Windshield and/or A pillar leaking when raining. If I have a piece of paper up on the dash, anywhere, it gets wet if all the way up by windshield, and steady dripping when raining coming from bottom of a pillar on driver side.

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Possible/probably rust-out of the window hole's edge. There are threads on the repair.

6. There is a small but constant coolant leak, about the size of a half dollar every morning. Seems to be coming from above the alternator. When I get under there, there are drips hanging onto the hose right under the alternator, and an oil pan bolt. Dried up crusty trails on bottom of oil pan, passenger side of alternator and around a big hose near the alternator. Not sure about this one, but probably my second most important issue I would like resolved. I read there could be a bolt/plug above the alternator that could loosen up, this would be best case scenario and probably wishful thinking. Gotta get some time to figure out how to remove the alternator and check that. If not, hard to locate exactly where it's coming from.
That's about it, sounds like a lot? It's really not, I'm really happy with the van overall. No oil leaks, grease, grime or signs of it. Engine bay and everything is pretty damn clean.

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Quite possibly a resonator leak ... mine had a deposit of "baked on" oil spray on the back of the radiator ... finally the resonator seam cracked far enough to start the (dreaded?) turbo drop-out symptom. The $33 Dorman resonator replacement:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002E323DS/?tag=sprintersou02-20
cured it for me. It could also be a split turbo hose, or a leaking hose clamp.

The drip could also be fuel sourced by the rear of the high pressure fuel pump. The fix is to remove it and tighten the bolts on its rear.

I been doing my reading and searching and researching..but any pointers, tips suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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Many many documents available here, both the 2004 and 2006 service manuals pertain to 2005: http://diysprinter.co.uk/reference/

--dick

Re: #4

Something to consider is if the dash vents are all open, esp. the ones above radio they will basically rob the foot and windshield vents of all air. Make sure they're all closed, and open only as needed.

For the heater controls, you might want to peek in the 2 center front vents and try to see if the defrost vent flaps are stuck. I found in my van that somehow (likely improper reinstall of cables by previous owner) the driver side flap went past it's "closed" position and was stuck. Forcing the dial on the HVAC control just served to kink the cable and make it even less effective. I posted a little about it here a while ago. I'm sure there are other causes for vent controls to be stuck as well. https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59351

Some good info here. Much appreciated. Good to know the wrenches just means fuel filter and air filter, was planning on doing them anyways. Gotta download and look at that manual, mine didnt come with one.
I really dont think the leak is fuel. I see the drops still hanging on to things when I get under there, they are pinkish and dont smell like fuel, and have that greasy kind if coolant feel to it.

For the vents, I've tried shutting everything else off, nothing helps. Do I have to remove the center console (thing with all the empty switch spots) off to get behind the controls? I see 2 screws up top 1 on each side. Ill try to look in to see if defroster flaps are stuck, but I think it's more then that since the feet dont work either and the dial is hard to turn. I like the pry open and spray wd-40 in there trick. Would be awesome if that alone helped

Ultimat777 said:

... Do I have to remove the center console (thing with all the empty switch spots) off to get behind the controls?...

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ATC cable and lamp access isn't that bad.

Some info is here.

Aqua Puttana said:

...


Console Switch Plate Removal
Thanks goes to Mad max.

mad max said:

To remove the plastic switch panel from the center console do the following
1) Remove the trim ring around the shifter. Pry it up gently with a small flat screwdriver or similar. It has quite a bit of retention force but it will come up. Added: Just the trim ring needs to be removed. My letter plate popped partially loose. Should that happen just snap the plate back into place.
2) Remove the small coin tray in the bottom left of the switch array. You can just use a screw driver again. This is where the 7day timer goes if you have that option. Not sure how that removes. [Same way. Use a knife edge to lever it up on each side. - vic]
3) Once the coin tray/7-day timer is removed you should see a torx head screw. I think it is T-20. Remove it.
4) Gently pry the back edge (edge closest to the back of the van) with a flat screwdriver or similar. The whole back edge is held in with just clips that will release when you pull hard enough.
5) Once the clips are free on the back edge gently lift the whole back edge and the front edge should start to pop out too. You should see the connection for the dash top and ashtray lighter sockets. Dash top one has 2 prongs and is white, the ashtray outlet has 3 prongs (1 for the illumination) and I think is black. Should be able to diagnose issue more easily once you can verify condition of plug and connections.

Note: I tried removing the dashtop outlet from that plastic panel but it's a pretty tricky thing to remove without causing damage - you'd be better off leaving it in and removing the whole panel. You should be able to reach down to the ash tray outlet once you get the plastic panel off.

HTH

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White Whale gives some nice trim removal information.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62959

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As always the original post/thread can be accessed by clicking the blue arrow icon within any quote box.

vic

ATC = auto temp controller, the module with the three dials.
Removal really is quick and straightforward... and recommended if your vent dial is stiff.
If you’re not getting much air at all then the cabin air filter is also a suspect.
It’s in the engine bay, in the horizontal air plenum above the engine. Two clips on the left (front visible and another behind), then the cover slides to the right to clear the wedges holding it up.

-dave

Perfect, thanks!
Got around to changing oil, air filter and fuel filter. Everything was easy to access, remove and replace.
I installed the GDE tune and have driven about 350 miles, the check engine light is gone and hasnt come back. Kind of weird, but none the less, I am thrilled the light is off

I suspected the cabin filter at first. Bought a new one and went to find a clogged one, only to find nothing in there. So unfortunately I couldnt get lucky enough for it to just be that.
Still gotta look up ATC, but thats the one with 3 buttons? Not dial right? All the way on the right, that I have no idea what it really does

That whole assembly, three controllers, is the ATC. One on the right is AC up top, heat recirc pump in middle(preheat), and bottom is "rest" which will provide heat after van is off, but not for very long.