2007 3.0l - P242F DPF ash accumulation - need ideas!

kylesw

New member
Vehicle: 2007 Sprinter 2500 144” 3.0l V6, 150,000 miles. Purchased November 2017 with 132,000 miles.
All codes read with a bluedriver scanner, read out on my iphone.

History: Last summer, especially in hot weather, we started getting sporadic singular clunks or coughs that would cause the accelerating van to hesitate momentarily. We took it into Linden in Golden as we passed through, and ended up replacing all the transmission solenoids and transmission fluid (previous fluid used was not approved by Mercedes, even though it claimed it met the spec). The theory was that improper fluid paired with old, failing solenoids was causing the issue.

As we drove across the country, the singular clunks/coughs resurfaced, usually in hot weather and very sporadically (once every 300-500 miles or so). I cleaned the EGR valve to see if that would help, but it wasn’t really that bad. We also had a persistent issue of exhaust smell leaking into the cab, which was occasionally very bad (I now believe it was really bad during DPF regeneration cycles). We took the van into Neely Coble in Nashville and they found a crack/failure in the flex pipe attached to the catalytic converter. They replaced that and the DPF temp sensor, and also noted the adjacent chassis harness wiring has some damage and may need to be addressed in the future. They also said the DPF looked good.
After getting the cat replaced, the van drove great, even in the hot weather we found in Florida. No more coughing/clunking in the last 2000 miles. The best guess that I have is failure of the flexpipe created unpredictable drops in exhaust pressure, messing with the turbo or EGR system and causing the clunks/coughs. That’s just a wild guess, as I am far from a diesel pro.

10 days ago, the CEL came on and it read code P2084 (exhaust gas temperature bank 1 sensor 2 – which I believe is the DPF temperature sensor). I pulled up the live data on bluedriver and the sensor was reading 0 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit (ambient temp was 70 degrees). This sensor had just been replaced a week ago, so I took a look under the hood and beneath the vehicle at it and all seemed good. For good measure, I squeezed the electrical connector together, although there was no sign of poor contact. When I fired everything up, the DPF temperature sensor was now reading normal values, so it seems that did the trick.

Current symptoms: That same day I scanned the CEL again, and code P242F (DPF ash accumulation) showed up in addition to P2084 (P2084 subsequently cleared after jiggling the connector). Additionally, I have noticed that the EGR system does not appear to be functioning, as the commanded EGR is stuck at 4.7% (although perhaps that is a protective mechanism due to the DPF error).

The vehicle seems to be making normal power, and is getting normal mileage (maybe slightly less than normal).

I have an appointment with Linden in a couple weeks to get them to inspect the chassis harness mentioned by Neely Coble. But we still have 1500 miles to drive before we get there, after driving 1000 miles already with the P242F CEL on – is it safe to drive that much farther?

Any idea why the vehicle is not just going through a regen cycle? I’ve read many P242F threads and haven’t found anything that might point me in the right direction yet. Any advice is welcome!
 

220817a

Independent & Self Reliant - From Chattanooga TN
Vehicle: 2007 Sprinter 2500 144” 3.0l V6, 150,000 miles. Purchased November 2017 with 132,000 miles.
All codes read with a bluedriver scanner, read out on my iphone.

History: Last summer, especially in hot weather, we started getting sporadic singular clunks or coughs that would cause the accelerating van to hesitate momentarily. We took it into Linden in Golden as we passed through, and ended up replacing all the transmission solenoids and transmission fluid (previous fluid used was not approved by Mercedes, even though it claimed it met the spec). The theory was that improper fluid paired with old, failing solenoids was causing the issue.

As we drove across the country, the singular clunks/coughs resurfaced, usually in hot weather and very sporadically (once every 300-500 miles or so). I cleaned the EGR valve to see if that would help, but it wasn’t really that bad. We also had a persistent issue of exhaust smell leaking into the cab, which was occasionally very bad (I now believe it was really bad during DPF regeneration cycles). We took the van into Neely Coble in Nashville and they found a crack/failure in the flex pipe attached to the catalytic converter. They replaced that and the DPF temp sensor, and also noted the adjacent chassis harness wiring has some damage and may need to be addressed in the future. They also said the DPF looked good.
After getting the cat replaced, the van drove great, even in the hot weather we found in Florida. No more coughing/clunking in the last 2000 miles. The best guess that I have is failure of the flexpipe created unpredictable drops in exhaust pressure, messing with the turbo or EGR system and causing the clunks/coughs. That’s just a wild guess, as I am far from a diesel pro.

10 days ago, the CEL came on and it read code P2084 (exhaust gas temperature bank 1 sensor 2 – which I believe is the DPF temperature sensor). I pulled up the live data on bluedriver and the sensor was reading 0 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit (ambient temp was 70 degrees). This sensor had just been replaced a week ago, so I took a look under the hood and beneath the vehicle at it and all seemed good. For good measure, I squeezed the electrical connector together, although there was no sign of poor contact. When I fired everything up, the DPF temperature sensor was now reading normal values, so it seems that did the trick.

Current symptoms: That same day I scanned the CEL again, and code P242F (DPF ash accumulation) showed up in addition to P2084 (P2084 subsequently cleared after jiggling the connector). Additionally, I have noticed that the EGR system does not appear to be functioning, as the commanded EGR is stuck at 4.7% (although perhaps that is a protective mechanism due to the DPF error).

The vehicle seems to be making normal power, and is getting normal mileage (maybe slightly less than normal).

I have an appointment with Linden in a couple weeks to get them to inspect the chassis harness mentioned by Neely Coble. But we still have 1500 miles to drive before we get there, after driving 1000 miles already with the P242F CEL on – is it safe to drive that much farther?

Any idea why the vehicle is not just going through a regen cycle? I’ve read many P242F threads and haven’t found anything that might point me in the right direction yet. Any advice is welcome!
A regeneration is not possible if you have a malfunctioning exhaust temperature sensor. Bad temperature sensor or connection to it, no regeneration.
 

kylesw

New member
A regeneration is not possible if you have a malfunctioning exhaust temperature sensor. Bad temperature sensor or connection to it, no regeneration.
You are quite right!
I ended up replacing the temperature sensor at the inlet of the DPF and that seemed solve most of my near term problems. The van has been running regens just fine since then. The P242F code disappeared!

Note that this temperature sensor is downstream of the sensor originally replaced by neely coble referred to in my first post.

I still on occasion get the "cough" or sputter in really hot weather, even after replacing the EGR valve. This is accompanied with an "EGR cooler performance" code - so I think I need to clean the cooler.
 

220817a

Independent & Self Reliant - From Chattanooga TN
You are quite right!
I ended up replacing the temperature sensor at the inlet of the DPF and that seemed solve most of my near term problems. The van has been running regens just fine since then. The P242F code disappeared!

Note that this temperature sensor is downstream of the sensor originally replaced by neely coble referred to in my first post.

I still on occasion get the "cough" or sputter in really hot weather, even after replacing the EGR valve. This is accompanied with an "EGR cooler performance" code - so I think I need to clean the cooler.
Does it "cough" when you try to accelerate? My 2008 was "coughing" when I would try to accelerate sometime. On my 2008 it turned out to be the EKAS system. After I deleted the function of the variable intake manifolds (EKAS), no more "coughing" and the responsiveness of the van greatly improved.
 

kylesw

New member
Does it "cough" when you try to accelerate? My 2008 was "coughing" when I would try to accelerate sometime. On my 2008 it turned out to be the EKAS system. After I deleted the function of the variable intake manifolds (EKAS), no more "coughing" and the responsiveness of the van greatly improved.
I will occasionally get a very pronounced "cough" on acceleration, but only in very hot weather. In the cool Seattle winters, sometimes it bogs down with poor throttle response, but again, only occasionally.

I've been suspecting that the EGR cooler requires cleaning (in the summer heat I occasionally get an EGR cooler performance code, but it clears itself once things cool down), but am also concerned that I may encounter the swirl valve/ekas issues that seem common, especially with 193,000 miles on the van now. Time to start researching that!

What exactly do you mean by "delete the function of" the EKAS?
 

220817a

Independent & Self Reliant - From Chattanooga TN
I will occasionally get a very pronounced "cough" on acceleration, but only in very hot weather. In the cool Seattle winters, sometimes it bogs down with poor throttle response, but again, only occasionally.

I've been suspecting that the EGR cooler requires cleaning (in the summer heat I occasionally get an EGR cooler performance code, but it clears itself once things cool down), but am also concerned that I may encounter the swirl valve/ekas issues that seem common, especially with 193,000 miles on the van now. Time to start researching that!

What exactly do you mean by "delete the function of" the EKAS?
You can completely delete or reprogram the function of the intake manifold flaps. The intake manifold flaps can be programmed where they stay open at all RPMs/loads of the engine.

On 2007 Sprinter it is very easy to do that since the EDC16 is not encrypted like EDC17 ECUs are on newer Sprinters. You will need a Kess V2 ($70) to read the flash memory of the ECU and to modify you can use ADS DPF EGR Lambda Delete software ($20). With less than $100 you can delete DPF EGR EKAS all by yourself.

https://www.mhhautoshop.com/products/kess-v2-v5-017-online-version-no-token-limited-main-unit

https://www.mhhautoshop.com/product...rt-flap-o2-dtc-2-software-full-2017-5-version

If you have bad intakes or malfunctioning swirl valve that trigger active trouble codes, you will have to use the "Special Functions" option that ADS software has built in hat can completly delete/remove the active codes from the ECU programming, and only after that modify the programming. On EDC16 you can also use the MTX DTC remover to remove codes completely from the programming of the ECU.

https://www.mhhautoshop.com/products/mtx-dtc-remover-1-8-5-0-with-keygen
 

kylesw

New member
You can completely delete or reprogram the function of the intake manifold flaps. The intake manifold flaps can be programmed where they stay open at all RPMs/loads of the engine.
Interesting. I'm always hesitant to program out engineered features without fully understanding what I am getting into however. Are there any negative effects to deleting the function?
 

Kajtek1

2015 3500 X long limo RV
Technically - deleting the program for flaps is fixing the symptoms, without touching the problem.
The problem is gunk build up around the flaps who restrict intake and block the flaps from moving.
 

220817a

Independent & Self Reliant - From Chattanooga TN
Interesting. I'm always hesitant to program out engineered features without fully understanding what I am getting into however. Are there any negative effects to deleting the function?
The only effect you will have is a better performing engine.
 

220817a

Independent & Self Reliant - From Chattanooga TN
Technically - deleting the program for flaps is fixing the symptoms, without touching the problem.
The problem is gunk build up around the flaps who restrict intake and block the flaps from moving.
No... It is not fixing the symptoms, but a permanent solution. The problem with the intakes is not only in gunk build up, but can also be in broken linkages, bad sensors or bad swirl motor. All those can be deleted and unplugged from the system, just like you probably have unplugged pressure sensor on your modified vehicle with a DPF delete.
 
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Kajtek1

2015 3500 X long limo RV
Now step back and think, why linkage or motor can break on flaps that are jammed with gunk?
You do the delete to cover up symptoms, but this is black tape over CEL light.
Sooner or later you will have to deal with the problem.
 

220817a

Independent & Self Reliant - From Chattanooga TN
Now step back and think, why linkage or motor can break on flaps that are jammed with gunk?
You do the delete to cover up symptoms, but this is black tape over CEL light.
Sooner or later you will have to deal with the problem.
That is simply not true... Once a code is deleted from the DTC mask, it is permanent. For example, if I delete the codes for the O2 sensor, you can unplug and remove the sensor from the exhaust system completely. You can put a plug in that exhaust and run without it. No CEL will come on or fault because of it missing... Ever.

Please answer this question, is your DPF pressure difference sensor plugged in on your modified vehicle? Or is it unplugged?

If it is unplugged, ask yourself why the CEL is not on? It is so because the fault codes for DPF have been completely erased from the DTC mask of your vehicle.
 

Kajtek1

2015 3500 X long limo RV
You don't want to understand the difference between removal of actuall problem and covering the symptoms.
On DPF delete, you remove DPF, so there is nothing in it. The hack just disable the sensor who no longer has purpose. Would you do on DPF what you suggest on flaps - you won't be driving for long before exhaust will clog.
On flap delete, you cover up the symptoms, while you are leaving gunked manifold on the car.
When the delete might give you some time with no CEL, the manifold eventually is going to clog for good. In the meantime you will have lower and lower performance.
 
D

Deleted member 50714

Guest
You don't want to understand the difference between removal of actuall problem and covering the symptoms.
On DPF delete, you remove DPF, so there is nothing in it. The hack just disable the sensor who no longer has purpose. Would you do on DPF what you suggest on flaps - you won't be driving for long before exhaust will clog.
On flap delete, you cover up the symptoms, while you are leaving gunked manifold on the car.
When the delete might give you some time with no CEL, the manifold eventually is going to clog for good. In the meantime you will have lower and lower performance.
Please post a video of your awesome performing "SCR Hacked" vehicle??? Inquiring minds want to know more.
 

220817a

Independent & Self Reliant - From Chattanooga TN
You don't want to understand the difference between removal of actuall problem and covering the symptoms.
On DPF delete, you remove DPF, so there is nothing in it. The hack just disable the sensor who no longer has purpose. Would you do on DPF what you suggest on flaps - you won't be driving for long before exhaust will clog.
On flap delete, you cover up the symptoms, while you are leaving gunked manifold on the car.
When the delete might give you some time with no CEL, the manifold eventually is going to clog for good. In the meantime you will have lower and lower performance.
How many completely blocked intake manifolds have you seen? How many vehicles do you have with deleted EKAS system? If don't have any, why do you even talk about it and the performance of vehicles with deleted EKAS system?

In the last 3+ years I had to deal with 20+ Sprinters with seized up intake manifold flaps and all of them were fixed by deleting the EKAS system. None of them had/have issues... For example, a cousin of my wife that lives down in Buford GA bought a 2008 Dodge Sprinter 158K with seized up intake manifolds, by now he has almost 400K, never had a problem with intake manifolds again. I'm basing my statements on quite a bit of experience, what do you base your statements on?
 

Kajtek1

2015 3500 X long limo RV
I posted the picture in another thread, so let me post it again for you personally.
This is intake manifold at 180k miles.
When those engines will still run with huge clogs in intake, they will not perform.
 

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