View Full Version : Rear brand new door question.

12-10-2018, 12:23 AM
I just bought brand new MB OEM rear door, driver side. It was at..Honda dealer, one of the employees had it, posted on Craiglist. My doors are shoot due to rust. Have windows in it. The brand new door is plain, no window. I would like to modify it to fit my old glass to it. I think it's doable, just need to be cut. Does anyone had a chance to do it? I would appreciate any suggestions.

12-10-2018, 04:46 AM
A question?
An important one!
On the original doors are the glass panels gasket glazed or direct bonded?

12-10-2018, 02:32 PM
The rear windows should be direct bonded. You can cut out the window stamping on the new door. It is possible to successfully bond a used window in. Since you are not using the old door you don't have to worry about damaging the door paint during removal.

Patrick of M
12-10-2018, 02:44 PM
If you remove the glass from the old door, you will see what needs to be done to the new door to install it. If you search the maintenance manual carefully you may find the cut profile for the spout of the gasket cement. This makes for a very tidy install with bonded windows. Also remove glass first, because if you break it you then can decide to not cut the new door.

12-11-2018, 08:17 PM
Thank you for all reply's. My windows are direct bond. I have this adhesive already purchased to use some months ago, had a plan to work on this rust around windows, but never used. Hopefully I will be still able to use it after this winter. If not, I buy fresh one. My windows will go off easy, the rust is so bad, that I don't care about the doors anymore.
I must make picture of this new door inside and outside. The question is, where exactly the cut must be and what to use to do it. A good jig saw? Cutoff wheel? Or air powered tool?
I want to do it after the winter, so I don't want to remove the glass now.

12-11-2018, 08:22 PM
A fine blade jigsaw is my preferred tool. When you removed the window from the old door you can easily see where the cutout should be. To keep the adhesive fresh, store it in the freezer.

12-12-2018, 05:25 PM
A fine blade jigsaw is my preferred tool. When you removed the window from the old door you can easily see where the cutout should be. To keep the adhesive fresh, store it in the freezer.

I agree. Just got done cutting in two RV windows, one in the sliding door and one across from it.

Then I cut thru the metal partition(in my van) separating the cab from the rear making a passageway.

Also cut refrigerator vents and a stove pipe hole.I got better at it. You can use an angle grinder with a very thin wheel amd the metal will cut like butter so be aware, things happen fast and you could easily remove our thumb. I wear leather gloves, plastic eye protection and a mask. And ear protection!!!

Now you will be able to be precise with the tools.

I used the angle grinder for the straight cuts and the jug saw for the rounds but the jig saw works well too, it is slower is all and maybe a broken blade or two.

Measure twice, cut once.
Make a line, follow the line.

I made patterns too, sometimes that helps locate yourself.

It's nerve racking work. Having a second person would be nice but I wasn't that lucky.

bill in tomahawk

12-12-2018, 10:49 PM
The rear windows should be direct bonded.

Yes - for 2004 and up. Earlier years the rear window are held in with gaskets. Thus Dennis' question - which type of door carcass did Oilburner purchase? I suspect there is a difference in the stamping and the replacement OEM glass. Here is a picture of a rear gasketed window on a 2002:


12-13-2018, 01:48 AM
I have hard time to find this door number to see what year model is for. Door has also stamped number. It has 2 weld spots on each vertical sides. I pointed this spots. Very visible inside, and less outside.105095

I can feel double metal, I wedged knife a little in between. So I think the cut must be between this two pieces, to leave lip to be filled with adhesive. But, I pointed knife outside, where the knife was inside wedged. It doesn't make sense to me, it is too much of flat rim left if I cut there. Plus, I can only go 2-3 mm deep inside to cut around. I think I will make temporary templet out of thin plywood to check with this door. I hope this door is for 2004 and up.

12-13-2018, 01:52 AM
And the door as outside the box. By the way, I paid 350 for it.