Bran new owner,,, to exited.

I just purchased a 2005 sprinter! She has 81k and was a one owner. She was a handicapped bus so there is a wheelchair lift in the back and buss doors just behind the passenger seat. I have ordered transmission filter, and gaskets including that plug thing. She is dripping a little tranny oil, so I do not want to drive her till I know there is plenty of fluid. Do not really inderstand the no dip stick thing?
I also ordered fuel filter, oil filter, and a scanner. She has a check engine light on that dose not affect driving? According to seller it has Ben on for years.
So any ways I am supper exited, I am planning on building her out as a light wait camper. I will be installing a Webasto coolant heater, and this will also heat my domestic hot water for showers and dishes. I am planning on putting in a composting toilet, a 120 volt fridge, 2 solar panels, 4 golf cart batteries, ( she has the extra battery option).
First thing is the tranny. On some of my other rigs, I have pulled the pan and filter, cleaned and replaced. The fill with fluid, separate the return line coming from oil cooler in front. Then start and let a quart or to flow into catch pan. Put fresh oil on tranny, and repeat until the oil is clean.
I believe this gets all the oil out. Including the touque converter? What are your thoughts?
Obie

All you said sounds like a good tune up to get the give the van a fresh start. I found the dipstic only on ebay or amazon I can't remember but It worked well and wasnt expensive. Buy it and keep it in the van.

For your tranny, where is it dripping from ? and what scanner did you get ?

Stoked for you man, sounds like a good van considering the mileage ! have fun

why it needs a " dipstic "?

Welcome!
First thing: download a service manual from here:
http://diysprinter.co.uk/reference/05 service manual.pdf

The NAG-1 is very sensitive to fluid level and will foam the fluid if overfilled, so find a dip stick. There are “ears” near the tip that stop the stick at the conductor plate (above the valve body) for consistent measurements even with deep sumps.
Search this forum for write-ups on any procedure - it’s MUCH cheaper to learn from others’ mistakes!

There is a drain on both the sump pan and the torque converter.
You can turn the engine crankshaft pully clockwise (righty-tighty) to locate the mark that aligns the T/C drain.
Expect to drain 3 to 4 quarts from each of them, but have the right plug seal on hand.
I would not personally risk possible damage to stuck bolts removing the cooler lines just to get that last pint of fluid out...

Be sure to select a “MB-Approved” ATF fluid. I use Shell ATF-134 fluid. There are several others.
The fill tube will overflow at about 5 quarts, then running the engine briefly will pump fluid into the empty T/C and allow you to pour the final few quarts and adjust the final HOT fluid level. Move the shifter slowly through P/D/N/R a few times, then the level is checked in Park with engine running. DO NOT OVERFILL! There’s only about a 1 pint change between the bottom of the stick and Full Hot (180’F), and the level moves about 3” from cold to hot. Better a bit low than too full as foaming the fluid will push air into the gears and clutches, which reduces both cooling and lubrication.

If your MIL/CEL is on you should probably invest in a Sprinter-aware scan tool.
These will let you access the various modules, especially the transmission module, and read any TDC codes stored in them.
The generic scanners are generally limited to pulling generic codes from the ECM (engine) module, but the Sprinter has more information to offer when diagnosing problems. But it’s not a CAN diagnostic port, it has multiple K-lines (KWP-2000/ISO-14230) at the OBDII port, and this requires a vehicle specific tool.

Enjoy the journey!

-dave

I ordered a LAUNCH X431 OBD2 Scanner Viii Vehicle Code Reader Auto Scan Tool . I hope this is a good one.it looks to be leaking from around that round plug.

Leaks from that round plug are common and problematic. Get it fixed before ATF wicks up the wire harness into the electronics under the drivers deat. Plenty of info on the forum wiki on this topic.

Welcome to one of the best forums on the Internet and welcome to the fortunate few who drive the T1N.

I doubt that scanner can read the TCM and other modules correctly. I suggest the Autel MD 802 or 808. Once updated this scanner can also read hundredes of makes/models as well as the sprinter.

Obiec said:

....planning on building her out as a light wait camper. I will be installing a Webasto coolant heater, and this will also heat my domestic hot water for showers and dishes. I am planning on putting in a composting toilet, a 120 volt fridge, 2 solar panels, 4 golf cart batteries, ( she has the extra battery option)....

Click to expand...

WELCOME to The Club!
do yourself a favor and get a 12VDC refrig - then you can run it straight off battery+solar/PV
(then no need inverter, which will pull almost as many amphours just to be ON as would the 12v frig)
200watts of PV keeps up with mine no problemo!

New Owner 2005 3500 Sprinter.

Question about the Fuel, when I read the logs, people mention Diesel 2 with green handle, Is there are more than one type of Fuel and what should I be filling with, what brand station sells best fuel.
Thanks

Obiec said:

I ordered a LAUNCH X431 OBD2 Scanner Viii Vehicle Code Reader Auto Scan Tool . I hope this is a good one.it looks to be leaking from around that round plug.

Click to expand...

I don’t know what that is, but you need at the very least a scanner that can clear codes in various modules, and OBDII scanners can’t necessarily do that/ sadly most of the less expensive scanners can’t do that.
Find out what you need here:
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=205

Canada said:

New Owner 2005 3500 Sprinter.

Question about the Fuel, when I read the logs, people mention Diesel 2 with green handle, Is there are more than one type of Fuel and what should I be filling with, what brand station sells best fuel.

Click to expand...

Handle color is NOT a reliable way to tell what fuel is on that hose (at least in the US).

You really have to read the pump's labels.

MB does not recommend fuel mixes of greater than 5% bio-diesel content.
(but in some states in the US, it's well-nigh impossible to get other than 20% bio).

In cold territories, the "#2 diesel" may be mixed with #1 (kerosene) to keep it from gelling due to the cold. Many members use additives, too. A gas station advertising "Premium Diesel" simply puts more additives into the basic #2.

There's a separate thread (within the last week or so) discussing diesel blends and "numberclature". It's also slightly covered in the owner's manual.
You can pick up a set of the 2003 services manuals here: http://diysprinter.co.uk/reference/2003SprinterManuals.zip
That doesn't include the 2003 Owner's manual, and the oldest i'm currently finding is the 2004 here: http://diysprinter.co.uk/reference/2004_Sprinter_Owners_Manual.pdf
... but that's not your OM612 engine. It's pretty much spot-on for the rest of the systems (and fuel advice)

--dick
p.s. at truck stops, try to AVOID using one of the pumps with the BIG filler nozzle ... the speed of feed can blow your Sprinter's "air escape from tank" hoses off their fittings. If you look around, you'll find at least one pump with the smaller "conventional" nozzle. If not, use the nozzle's flow control to limit the fill speed.

Not as common in the USA, but there are several grades of diesel depending on Cetane level. For example in Aus they sell "truck diesel" for a bit less than normal auto diesel. This diesel has lower cetane value. Not a problem for the big commercial engines. On higher performance light diesel engines, the higher "grade" diesel provides better fuel economy, and quieter engine overall.

In the USA some stations carry premium diesel. Whether its better or not I cannot say, but if the price is right?

Congrats on the buy. Looks like you're in Portland, swing by sometime, I'd love to chat sprinter with you, hook you up with some info.