Fuel leak in the engine compartment

Lamberton

Member
https://i.imgur.com/LgGqmTx.jpg

What's this cylindrical item? Fuel pump? Fuel filter? It's on the driver's side of the engine, pictured from the top.

Diesel is leaking and pooling on top of it then dripping down. The hose clamps are all rusted. The hoses themselves might be shot. I figure I should replace them all. When I do, how much fuel will have to worry about going everywhere?

Is the cylindrical item replaceable? Should I replace it at the same time if I'm doing work in there?
 
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Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
That is the fuel filter. Change regularly. Might do the hoses around it if you have the time. The system is not pressurized when the engine is off. You can just remove the lines. You will just have the fuel in the lines to deal with, so around 1/3 of a cup. Disconnect the top line first and most of the fuel will drain into the tank.
 

Lamberton

Member
Thanks, I had just figured that out and was going to edit my post. It's the 01 style filter. They say to replace it every 20k miles. I will do that!

Do you think the hoses need replacing, or do you think one is just loose?
 
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Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
01 style? That is the OM647 filter (04-06). The metal pipe nearby indicates you have an OM647 engine? So make sure you get the right filter. There is a good writeup on the filter change. The om647 has an in-tank lift pump, so will self prime if you leave the ignition on for a minute or so. Much easier than the OM612.
 

WjM

New member
I love the ease with which we use the term self prime on the fuel filter changes. I have changed several and never had one self prime. I end up popping off the air intake and emptying a tin of ether into the intake to get the van firing and then manage to purge the fuel circuit. Just saying beware of the self prime over statment, banging doors or turning the ignition repeatedely on and off to try to actuate the lift pump.

Enjoy and best of luck.....
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
I love the ease with which we use the term self prime on the fuel filter changes. I have changed several and never had one self prime. I end up popping off the air intake and emptying a tin of ether into the intake to get the van firing and then manage to purge the fuel circuit. Just saying beware of the self prime over statement, banging doors or turning the ignition repeatedly on and off to try to actuate the lift pump.

Enjoy and best of luck.....
Hi WjM,

I see you are in Barcelona so your Sprinter will most likely have them OM 611 or OM 612 engine which DOES NOT have an in-tank lift pump and hence why you cannot self prime the fuel filter.

The way which works for me is to repeatedly fill the new filter with fresh diesel until it will take no more then the engine starts right up and keeps running.

As a word of warning, continual running on ether is very bad practice and can cause damage to glow plugs amongst other issues.

Keith.
 
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Deleted member 50714

Guest
Just wanted to add a few crucial details.

Replace the hose clamps with the proper design. Preferably stainless steel.

Replace the hoses.

After replacing the fuel filter, clean the area with degreaser.

Finally, avoiding the use of starting fluid cannot be overemphasized.
 

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billintomahawk

Guest
2002 and 2003 owners!

With the clamps and getting the proper ones I could not agree more but there is another step that most people skip but I suggest.

Cut off the used, previously crimped section of fuel line, maybe 1/2 inch(12-14mm) so that you have a section of fresh hase under the clamp.

Now tighten the clamp and loosen it a couple of times before you tighten it for the last time.
Don't over tighten the clamp. With this method it should not be necessary.
If you think about it, now you have done everything right.
If you are n a jam and only have worm clamps a fresh section of fuel line will help them work correctly.

On the 2002-3 with the sucking system this is a must. I know because I suffered the learning process.
This is a case where everything must be done right and I learned the hard way.
Also you must fill the fuel filter as suggested. You do NOT need a mighty vac or other priming techniques if your lines and connections are solid.
Not only is this a myth it is not suggested my Mercedes IMHO.

All 2002-3 owners should be aware that their fuel delivery system to the fuel filter and the HP pump is radically different than the 2004-2006 and a different strategy re the fuel filter, water separation system and general maintenance of the lines should be followed.

If you have to replace a section of rubber fuel line to have enough length to cut it back you just do it or suffer.

Someone smarter than I am will post the correct fuel line sizes in English and metric.
They are not the same but if you follow this technique I believe they will interchange.

i don't know if Million Mile Sprinter has done a video on all this but I wish he would. He offers a replacement fuel filter for the 2002-3 that eliminates several sources for air leaks. I would suggest you investigate his solution.

https://www.millionmilesprinter.com/our-services

This is a 2002-3 no start hot issue that can drive you crazy.

bill in tomahawk
 
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sailquik

Well-known member
To reiterate the hazards of the use of ether based starting fluids on CRD/glow plug equipped
Sprinter engines (all varieties), your glow plugs heat up to ~1500 degrees.
Spraying a highly flammable/volatile ether based solution into the intake tract is
almost asking for a flash fire when the ether hits the glow plugs.
Many people have been badly burned as a result.
Be safe, fix the fuel system correctly, eliminate all the vacuum leaks,
pre-fill the fuel filter with a funnel and a hand operated squirt/oil can with
fresh diesel and your Sprinter should start right up.
Be Safe,
Roger
 

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