2004 t1n 3500 cargo click not start

Hello folks,
I have a 2004 3500 cargo and the vehicle was running perfectly fine and suddenly wont start when I walk out of walmart. I replaced new starter, new battery and clean all the ground cables from the battery and engine mount and check all fuses from the driver seat and steering column. I also added additional ground cable from the engine mount to the battery. However, when I removed the ground cable from the engine mount I see the cooper strains broken couple pieces off. Could that cause the starting issue or clicking noise? Please help

I noticed your post has descended, unanswered, to page two. So, I thought I'd give it a bump.

There is a relay on your driver's seat pedestal that feeds power to the starter solenoid.

That is probably the "click" you are hearing. For a very quick test you could try swapping it with the fuel pump relay that's next to it.



--dick

You need to get a volt meter on the various parts. Look for the voltage when cranking. You need good power (at least 12V before the starter engages) at the solenoids trigger, and the main stater cable. Use the engine block or bell housing as your negative reference.

autostaretx said:

There is a relay on your driver's seat pedestal that feeds power to the starter solenoid.

That is probably the "click" you are hearing. For a very quick test you could try swapping it with the fuel pump relay that's next to it.

--dick

Click to expand...

The click is coming from the starter. I also touch the starter relay and I can feel the click as well. Is it possible to swap the fuel relay into the starter relay? Below is the link to the starter relay. Is this the correct relay for the vehicle?
https://www.amazon.com/Mercedes-Multi-Purpose-OEM-0025422619/dp/B014RLH0K0#customerReviews

Midwestdrifter said:

You need to get a volt meter on the various parts. Look for the voltage when cranking. You need good power (at least 12V before the starter engages) at the solenoids trigger, and the main stater cable. Use the engine block or bell housing as your negative reference.

Click to expand...

I tested the battery and its over 12V and cables all good connections to battery.

Verify that 12v appears on the starter's small wire when you turn the key to Start.

If it doesn't, either the wire is damaged or the side-of-seat relay isn't doing its job.

If it DOES appear, then the starter solenoid (which is another relay internally) isn't working.

The starter's BIG wire should have 12v all the time.

--dick

Updates: The click sound turns out to be some corrosion build at the positive terminal cable inside about 3 inches. Even after all the voltage tested on the negative and positive cable on the volt meter there is good connections. Thanks for all the folks that support this issue.

My favorite approach to this kind of problem is to set my fluke meter to volts, and hit the min/max record button. I then connect the meter to both ends of the cable in question. Normally it would read zero volts. During cranking, this can jump to 2, 3 or even 5 volts. The meter will record this for later review. Depends on the cable being tested, but about 0.5V is the limit for most starter wiring.

Just for reference. Most starter motors need at least 11V to close the solenoid and engage the bendix. From there around 9-9.5V is needed to get the engine spinning (at least somewhat). So under full starter load you need at least 10.8V at the battery terminals. If its lower, the battery or terminals may be toast. From there you can work towards the starter, as various bits of wiring can have hidden corrosion.