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Hoppingmad
07-19-2009, 01:34 AM
Would love to know how to remove the radio from the 2005. Want to tap into the antenna line for the sirius satellite system as I'm not getting good blank spots on the dial for the fm transmitter, either that the transmitter isn't strong enough to get to the roof.

I saw a thread claiming if radio is unplugged to long we need a code to get it going again. I wonder if worst buy has a unit that fits that hole correctly

TimJuhl
07-19-2009, 02:46 AM
If you unplug the radio (or disconnect the battery) you will need to enter a VIN # specific code - some are available here http://www.berrysprinter.com/radio%20code.pdf otherwise you'll have to ask the dealer to get it for you.

I bought a replacement radio thru Crutchfield and highly recommend them. You'll want the wiring harness adapter and the installation kit. Many of the replacement radios available have a jack you can plug your portable Sat radio into - the one I got also has an iPod adapter.

The Sprinter antenna requires 12 vdc which is pretty common on European vehicles. I'm not sure "tapping" into it would be a good idea. If you are using a FM transmitter to feed the Sat signal to the factory radio the antenna is not playing a big role in this.

Tim

Hoppingmad
07-19-2009, 12:49 PM
Sat radio working fine in car and motor cycle, not at all in sprinter.
Have only the base on the van, whip disappeared.
Studied electronics when I was younger, no idea why they'd have 12 volts on antenna wire!!!!!!!!

Was looking at radio faceplate, has 2 slots, approx .03 x 1/4", insert something here to release faceplate? I don't see any screws nearby

maxextz
07-19-2009, 02:46 PM
http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1223

TimJuhl
07-19-2009, 05:41 PM
Antenna source <http://store.europarts-sd.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2189>

The install kit from Crutchfield includes the DIN tool required to remove the old radio (see 2nd pix.)

The sprinter antenna has a built-in preamplifier that amplifies AM & FM signals. Forum members have reported that failure to connect power to the antenna is most noticeable when trying to receive AM stations.

Be sure to read <http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=488&highlight=radio+wiring+harness> especially the part about needing to switch two of the power wires.

For what it's worth, while I was at it I added a couple of speakers to the front headliner using the rear speaker leads on the wiring harness. There is lots of room behind the headliner and it comes off fairly easily. I ran the wires behind the pax airbag and up the right hand window post.

Tim

katmat
07-20-2009, 01:37 PM
The Sprinter antenna requires 12 vdc which is pretty common on European vehicles. I'm not sure "tapping" into it would be a good idea. If you are using a FM transmitter to feed the Sat signal to the factory radio the antenna is not playing a big role in this.

Tim


I'm am still having bad AM reception w/ my stock radio. I have checked for voltage at the antenna & it seems correct. Is there anything in the line (amp or something) between the antenna & the radio?
Thanks,
Matt Murphy
Chicago IL.

mackconsult
07-22-2009, 05:32 PM
I did the same. Installation went just fine using crutchfield supplied parts. I did not do the satellite, just HD radiod and the ipod connector. The kids love to watch movies in the van.

If you unplug the radio (or disconnect the battery) you will need to enter a VIN # specific code - some are available here http://www.berrysprinter.com/radio%20code.pdf otherwise you'll have to ask the dealer to get it for you.

I bought a replacement radio thru Crutchfield and highly recommend them. You'll want the wiring harness adapter and the installation kit. Many of the replacement radios available have a jack you can plug your portable Sat radio into - the one I got also has an iPod adapter.

The Sprinter antenna requires 12 vdc which is pretty common on European vehicles. I'm not sure "tapping" into it would be a good idea. If you are using a FM transmitter to feed the Sat signal to the factory radio the antenna is not playing a big role in this.

Tim

mackconsult
07-22-2009, 05:34 PM
Neet ..... I put mine just behind the seats in that same liner in the vertical area. I don't have a high roof so don't have as much room as you. While I was at it I replaced the OEM speakers in the dash. Next is to put two big speakers (with maybe an amp) in back when installing the oak paneling in the ceiling.

Antenna source <http://store.europarts-sd.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2189>

The install kit from Crutchfield includes the DIN tool required to remove the old radio (see 2nd pix.)

The sprinter antenna has a built-in preamplifier that amplifies AM & FM signals. Forum members have reported that failure to connect power to the antenna is most noticeable when trying to receive AM stations.

Be sure to read <http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=488&highlight=radio+wiring+harness> especially the part about needing to switch two of the power wires.

For what it's worth, while I was at it I added a couple of speakers to the front headliner using the rear speaker leads on the wiring harness. There is lots of room behind the headliner and it comes off fairly easily. I ran the wires behind the pax airbag and up the right hand window post.

Tim

Hoppingmad
07-22-2009, 10:28 PM
Well I leaned the laddered on the van, crawled up, and the thing is snaped flush with the base, and of course the painter filled it with paint.
No way will I be getting the old one out. Only getting 3 channels I don't like. Will probably replace the base a little lower to protect the whip from overhead snapping .
Maybe something from radio shack.
But I still need to know how to get the radio out of the dash, what can I shove in those slots and what do I do once its in there.

I think the satellite FM transmitter depends on being picked up by the antenna. As the FM extender wires are supposed to be placed as close to the antenna as possible.

Is that roof panel supporting those speakers by itself?
Currently I haven't figured out how to remove the roof panel. Or how to peel off the plastic trim around the edges (door pillars and such)
I don't suppose this is going to require removal of the sliding partition door????????

TimJuhl
07-23-2009, 02:34 AM
Hoppingmad,

First of all, the antenna screws onto a threaded post on the antenna base. You should see if what is left of the stub can be unscrewed - if yes, a replacement antenna can be screwed onto the post.... If the base is broken, then you're looking at a new antenna and base.

Take a look at the picture of the DIN tools that I sent you and you'll get an idea what you need. If you want, I can look for my old set of removal tools (it takes two) and loan them to you. Basically you just need to cut a couple of strips of aluminum or similar metal that will slip into the holes.

I would think holding the SAT FM transmitter next to the radio itself would provide plenty of signal, antenna or no. That said, if it isn't working then maybe the antenna is the key.

The roof panel is supporting the speakers - the panel is about 3/4 of an inch thick and the backing is a soft material - you can cut it with an Xacto knife - you need to make a trim ring out of metal or 1/4 inch plywood for the back to support it.

Check out page 1105 of the service manual....the following pages show how to remove the trim and headliner. You might find it helpful to buy a set of trim removal tools from Harbor Freight. They do the job without marring the trim. The trim snaps into holes in the sheetmetal and it works best to put the removal tool close to the hole so as to put the force where it is needed. The service manual can help you there.

The plastic plugs holding the back of the headliner up are in two pieces. Carefully pull the outer part straight out and off (I used my fingernails), then the inner plug pops out fairly easily with a removal tool or similar object.

My headliner was not attached to the partition. I had the dealer remove the partition before I took delivery so I didn't have to deal with it.

Tim

Hoppingmad
07-23-2009, 11:03 AM
Just a piece of sheet metal? basically just push on some tab and pop it comes off?

Antenna stub is broke off flush, it is not gonna come out of there. Radio shack probably carries an assortment of antennas. If I get the satellite going who needs an antenna anyhow

Sacto John
07-23-2009, 04:32 PM
Hoppingmad,First of all, the antenna screws onto a threaded post on the antenna base. You should see if what is left of the stub can be unscrewed - if yes, a replacement antenna can be screwed onto the post.... If the base is broken, then you're looking at a new antenna and base.

Sorry for the hijack but my antenna is broken off at the base as well. How do you go about removing the base to replace it if I can not unscrew what is left of the antenna?

TimJuhl
07-23-2009, 06:03 PM
Guys,
My memory of the antenna base is that it simply mounts in a round hole and is held in place by a lockwasher and nut screwed tight against the inside metal of the roof. The coax and power wire feed into the base. To gain access you'll have to remove the front headliner. To remove the headliner you'll first want to remove the A and B pillar trim. The service manual has a good explanation of how this is done (see excerpt below.) I've also included a photo of the front with the headliner removed.

The trim is held on by flat plastic tabs with attached metal clips that press into slots in the body of the Sprinter. As I said, you want to be careful when you pry them out. To reinstall, they simply snap back in.

You might be well to consider that one reason that the Sprinter antenna has a preamplifier is because it is so short. It is not practical to install a standard height antenna on the roof unless you want to be catching the overhead power lines while driving. If it were me I'd try to track down an OEM replacement or a compact preamplified aftermarket unit.

Tim

katmat
07-24-2009, 03:02 AM
Tim,
can you tell me where the pre amp for the radio antenna is?
I'm thinking that may be my problem with my AM reception.
Thanks,
Matt Murphy

TimJuhl
07-24-2009, 03:47 AM
Matt,
My guess is it is molded into the base of the antenna itself. When I had the headliner off I didn't see a separate box... the 12v wire went right into the antenna.

Tim

katmat
07-24-2009, 12:32 PM
Matt,
My guess is it is molded into the base of the antenna itself. When I had the headliner off I didn't see a separate box... the 12v wire went right into the antenna.

Tim

I did try swapping antenna's /w another Sprinter but i still had the same problem. I'll have to look in the antenna base.

surlyoldbill
07-24-2009, 04:36 PM
I'm not certain, but perhaps the powered antenna is coupled with the stock radio, and would be unecessary with an aftermarket radio. I've always had fine reception without amplified antennas. Mine was also messed up, including the tabs that hold on the outer plastic housing. I used a little JB weld to keep the antenna in the stripped threads, and contact cement and silicone to seal the housing. I've been planning on replacing the antenna with an aftermarket one that is similar (I already bought it last year), but it is not "powered". I currently have an aftermarket CD player, a VR3 that I purchased at Target for $88 that plays MP3 discs as well as having a USB slot to play directly off of thumb drives (I use that most often, because I can put about 100 entire albums on a good size thumb drive, and there are no moving parts or scratches or skipping to deal with), it also has a remote so I can control the radio from the back of the van if I'm too lazy to get up and change it manually. Replacing the entire cable is probably prefered, but it's probably possible to use the existing cable and disconnect the power from the feed end. There are adapters for splicing on new cable to existing. While you have the headliner off, I would suggest running a16-18 gauge wire pair to the area above the rearview mirror for later use as a power source for radar detector, rearview camera monitor, perhaps to power a 22-24" LCD monitor built into the headliner (my plan).

TimJuhl
07-24-2009, 07:25 PM
Guys,
Powered antennas simply make up for the fact that a particular antenna (because of length, material, etc.) is not optimized for good reception in fringe areas (especially AM). Put on a "standard" antenna and you probably don't need one with a preamp. Put on a shorty and I suspect you'll want one with a preamp.

You might consider something like the Metra 44UA30 <http://kollmanradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=8548> At $22 it is a lot cheaper than MB - I haven't used one but it reads like it might do the job.

Surlyoldbill is correct that when you have the headliner off is a good time to run wires. If you look at the attached pix you will see that I installed a Garmin Nuvi GPS and a LCD monitor wired to a backup camera in addition to the wires to the speakers I added. The Garmin and Backup camera turn on and off with the ignition key.

Tim

Hoppingmad
07-25-2009, 12:32 AM
Found a screwed splice in antenna wire behind dome light.
Unscrewed it, shoved in a short length of wire, lots of stations now, and satellite adapter works.

blisspacket
07-25-2009, 03:15 AM
Finally figured the secret: radio removal: those two long slender pieces of tin that come with most radios, you insert them into the two slots on the face of the Becker radio that comes in a Sprinter. The tins go in only so far. Angle them toward each other about a sixteenth of an inch until they go in no further. Then spread them away from each other, jiggle and pull. Lo and behold when I got in there, there was a piece of paper with the factory code; I think it started out in life glued to the back of the radio, but it was floating loose. Code was different from the one published in the pdf file....and it got the POS radio working.

glasseye
07-25-2009, 03:32 AM
....and it got the POS radio working.

:bounce: A POS it is, indeed. :bounce:

TimJuhl, how are those headliner speakers working out? I didn't think there would be room up there for speakers, but obviously, there is. Did you replace the factory radio, too? I'm looking at something like a Blaupunkt Brisbane SD48. CDs are so last year.:snore:

http://reviews.cnet.com/car-audio/blaupunkt-brisbane-sd48/4505-3425_7-32957749.html

Hoppingmad
07-25-2009, 11:55 AM
Just in case the need ever arises, how do you get the code into the radio when you need to?

I also have not figured out how to tune the radio (without scanning) or how to store the channel into memory. :thinking: Some days I just feel so ignorent

Hoppingmad
07-25-2009, 09:31 PM
OOPS
While fastening sat system to headliner, BZzzt, antenna wires hit hot lead to dome light.:yell:
Fuse blew, radio lost code, radio prompted me for code, hmmmm dry marker numbers on sun visor, put 4 numbers in, faked a fifth, held am/fm button, radio now says wait.

Pulled the new fuse,
am/fm button the correct entry sequence????
I'm off to find that radio code thread:yell:

Hoppingmad
07-25-2009, 10:05 PM
put the fuse back in, still says wait
left it on incase wrong code resets in 10 minutes or so.

don't even know if the code I found will work
if anybody wants to steal it, the code is 33133, and I've left the doors unlocked

speaking of locked doors, I changed that fuse also
now when you press the lock button on the keyfob, clunk, clunk, and all the doors are unlocked and the lock switch on the dash blinks, same quality as the radio!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hoppingmad
07-25-2009, 11:13 PM
well sometime during the last hour, the radio shut off
turned it back on, still says wait:yell:

I'd have disconnected the battery first, but didn't want to enter the code.

TimJuhl
07-26-2009, 03:27 AM
Hoppingmad, I see where you got your name :smilewink:

As far as the radio is concerned, I've never tried to reprogram the number in one. You can be our test pilot. There is a separate manual that comes with the radio that might help you out if you still have it. I got rid of mine when I gave my radio away or you could have it.

Regarding the door lock switch - since I figured out that when the lights go out all the doors are unlocked things have gone a great deal smoother.... it certainly doesn't stack up to the remote on a typical US car but you can make it work.

Glasseye - the speakers work very well. There is plenty of room behind the headliner for speakers, the only problem is that you need to fabricate a backing ring for the inside. The back of the headliner is made of a soft flock (shredded rag) and compresses fairly easily. I cut the holes with a xacto knife.

I also replaced the radio with a unit that contains a disc player and has a cord to connect my iPod and any other source that accepts a 1/8th inch plug. I ran the cables out thru the ash tray and store them there when not in use.

Tim

Hoppingmad
07-26-2009, 04:42 AM
All is well at the moment.
On a mercedes site, ignition on for 10 minutes resets wait.
Code I got on this site worked, will have to write code on visor, THIS WILL HAPPEN AGAIN

Satellite plug in adapter converts 12 to 6 volts, its now wired into the antenna hot lead so I get auto sat off. Except for the dangling new antenna wire everything out of site. Sat antenna wires thru headliner, down the a pillar, and laying on the dash. Who needs a roof mount?

But will need a big 30 or 45 degree block for sat adapter, can't read the LCD screen from drivers seat at current angle. :yell: I can reach the buttons !:cheers:
So much effort - so little results

I've downloaded an owners manual, will have to study the key fob.
Hit the lock button 2 or 3 times, everything but the drivers door locked. :yell:
If I lock all the doors manually, the unlock button unlocks the doors.:idunno::crazy:

Hoppingmad
07-30-2009, 04:03 AM
Took wife for first ride today. "Radio sounds terrible" she says.
Might try some different speakers, if I can get the damn radio out of the dash and tap into the wires will install some rears behind the seat.
Damn germans must all be tone deaf!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

surlyoldbill
07-30-2009, 04:36 PM
Depending on what you have, the speakers are horrible, and speakers are the MOST important part of an audio system. The stock speakers on my passenger model are a pair of 4" in the dash and a pair of 5" in the rear side panels. Both pairs are 15 watt max, with tiny magnets. I installed a pair of 6 1/2 2-ways in the headliner just above and to the rear of the front seats, and will be replacing the 4" dash speakers with better quality ones. Installing speakers in the headliner was pretty easy, as the speaker wires already run right above the windows, and you can tap into them without having to run new wire. Audiophiles will want to replace the factory 20 gauge wire with decent 12 gauge, though. As for mounting speakers in the headliner, make sure the speakers you buy are shallow enough to fit (I think there is 2.5" of mounting depth between the FACE of the headliner and the body sheet metal). Also, some have made a backing plate to attach the speakers to, but I carefully cut the cutouts for a tight fit and used the included sheet metal screws to hold the speaker to the headliner material with no problems. If anything, just replace the stock speakers with better quality ones. There are actually decent sounding 4" speakers, but the mounting depth in the dash is a little shallow, so remove the stock speaker and use it as a guide.

The Sprinter poses some difficult audio problems because of it's cavernous interior. A simple solution would be to put up some quality surface mount speakers up high in the very back, such as Polk Audio surround sound satelite speakers (your radio will run about any 4-8ohm speaker), but they are so far away from the driver that the volume would need to be high, and there would be stereo imaging problems with the delay of the sound coming from both the dash and rear speakers. The ideal speaker configuration is to have the right and left speakers about the same distance from the listener(s), and that's difficult to do in a Sprinter. The location of my headliner speakers is not perfect, but I actually hear the more distant passenger side louder because the speakers are directed facing the interior, and I'm in the "audio cone" of the passenger speaker and not the drivers' side speaker.

Hoppingmad
07-30-2009, 06:32 PM
Well I've got the sliding partition, so I don't have the huge cavern to fill with audio. Am doing my best to not remove partition and headliner. Can reach a good distance thru the domelight hole, if I go with ceiling speakers, but will need to snake wires up the a pillar.
So far haven't a clue how to get dash speakers out, PRY the grill????????
So far the piece of sheet metal I'm shoving thru the din slots, currently flat ended, is producing no results. With all the road noise my cargo sprinter produces, speakers closer to my ears are a better choice.
If there rally are speaker wires running up the a pillar (I'm assuming) which side, and how would I distinguish them from the other wires?

maxextz
07-30-2009, 09:23 PM
why are you guys still using"putting up with"the stock radios?:idunno: i binned mine as soon as i picked up the van :thumbup: they are really poor quality imo:shifty:

max............:shhh:

surlyoldbill
07-31-2009, 04:03 AM
Remove the dash speaker grill by first removing the A pillar, which just pulls right off. I forget if there are snap in fittings (like the A pillar) or if there exposed screws. Either way, when the grill comes off, the speaker screws are exposed. Removing the A pillar gives you the opportunity to run additional wiring if you cannot identify factory speaker wires. I don't know if there are rear speaker wires installed if you don't have factory installed rear speakers. There should be a wiring diagram available as a PDF on this forum or online. I have a passenger model, so I don't know for sure if you have installed rear wiring or not. And like others say, the stock Becker radio really sucks, and any single DIN radio/CD/DVD/MP3 player will slip right in. The kind with the slide out 7" LCD screen is pretty cool, and you can route a rearview camera to it as well as play DVDs on the screen.