Parking Brake Cable Adjuster

My parking brake is totally shot. The main cable is dust and the parking brake cable adjuster (where the main cable branches off to two cables) is frozen solid. I can't find one for sale and I can only find one picture(!) of it on Google images. Is there another component it can be replaced with or do I have to hope there's salvageable metal under the blanket of rust? Maybe I have the wrong name. I got that from the service manual.
I'm pretty despondent over the state of my van at this point. The light at the end of the tunnel has really dimmed over the past two weeks.

Edit:

Mine was seized/frozen solid. I had to cut off the 2 rear cables as they were seized as well. Even the front cable connect which is just a loop with hook was difficult to remove. I then unbolted the adjuster so I could work on it at a bench. Wire wheeled it, disassembled into all its bits and pieces, wire wheeled all the bits, oiled everything and put it back together. Subsequently I found it online for less than $100 so not the best use of my time, but I was remote and did not trust the van’s brakes yet, didn’t want to drive without belts and braces.
This link shows the dodge part number but the Image is wrong (as on all the doge sites) the adjuster is the second diagram, the part number is good though, use the Chrysler/mb interchange doc to find the mb part number.
https://www.mopardealerparts.com/p/...ke-Cable-Without-4JR/42233195/05119232AA.html
P.s. 4JR means 4 door

Iy may not be as bad as it appears. I freed mine up in place using P-oil, a large screwdriver (lever), block of wood, and a hammer. Some info is here.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=95765#post95765

My advice.

Start spraying the assembly regularly with PB Blaster, Kroil, or other real penetrating oil. Let it soak for a week or so and then try freeing the unit up.

My opinion.

The time you wait for repair is not necessarily unsafe. The parking brake is just that, a parking brake. The shoes are so small that they provide little help as an "emergency" brake. Across the pond the Sprinter parking brake is notorious for failing MOT safety checks.

Good luck.

vic

Aqua Puttana said:

The time you wait for repair is not necessarily unsafe.
vic

Click to expand...

I'm not worried about the safety. I was hoping to get it inspected Monday. That's not happening now.

Does anyone know what size and type bolt holds the rear park brake cables to the drums? I can't tell if it's torx or hex. To rusty. T40 seems too big, T30, too small.
And should there be two of them on each side? I only have one.

Thanks for the info guys.

Fwiw I have seen vids online showing guys changing the p brake cables without first removing the rotor, maybe on the earlier models this was possible, but for me hooking the cable up required pulling the rotor so I could get at the p brake mechanism. I’m pretty sure if you pull the rotor you don’t need to remove the backing hardware, but I ant remember for sure. Takes a lot of fiddling to get that p brake adjusted to pass a safety. I think I ended up setting it just dragging a bit, then as soon as safety’s was over I backed it off. It still stops the van but not in 3 clicks of handbrake handle like the guy wanted.

I'm trying to pull the rotor now actually. Can't get the caliper off. My partner is grabbing an 18mm socket and another can of PB Blaster from the store as I type. I'm praying i can get the bolts off without snapping or stripping them.

Edit: She came back with the wrong sized socket and teflon lubricant. I'm off to the store!

Judiciously use of one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS8000-Intensity-Trigger-Start/dp/B0019CQL60
Burning MAPP gas, and a decent air impact driver, will make your life so much better. Bolts will stop breaking. Never underestimate the power of heat and air impact! I still have my first 1/2” air impact driver, still works, though occasionally I need to break out my 3/4” when the going gets really tough, the 1/2”is not what it was 25yrs ago.