06 Sprinter 140k high top 140 wheel base.

I've been working a p2067 & p2068 for a few months. I'm at the end of my patience and sense of humour. After working on it this weekend, I've came to the conclusion it's time I seek professional help. ( After that I'll deal with the truck )

I've been researching local independent shops. I'me looking at 2 right now. I've haven't made any calls yet. If anyone knows of a shop in Ft Myers, FL. Please share!

Has anyone ever done a bet on this forum??? More like a football pool!!! $10 buys you in. However pick the right part/parts takes the cake!!!

Hears the sim temps.

Using a autel 802 ( full system ) this is what I'm seeing.

Intake air pressure 780 mbar. From my research around 1000 is normal.

Intake air temperature is 176f , this is Fla. my ambient air temperature sensor is correct around 80 f.

Charge pressure positioner on/off is 6%. From what I understand I should be at 95% at idle.

With the mass airflow sensor unplug it runs OK, ( it's been like this since I purchased it. I don't know what a T1N with out these problems runs like!!!)

When the engine is running, I plug in the maf sensor it dies after 1 second. It will try to start. But after 1 second it dies.
If the maf sensor it plugged in, the ECM only reports p2067.

The ECM doesn't recognize if the intake pressure sensor is plugged in or not.

The turbo actuator doesn't seem to be moving. I pulled the clip from the actuator the linkage is free & clean ( it's not rusted up ). The turbo control lever moves free. If I push the lever down I can feel the pressure build in the hoses.


Here's what I've done so far!!

Replace the engine wiring harness.

Replace the mass airflow sensor. The dealership replaced it in January also.

Fuel temperature sensor, air temperature sensor, boost pressure sensor. Conductor plate ( not related )

Ohm/ checked maf sensor connector. I've visually checked all hoses, made a vacuum test adapters, vacuum tested all hoses and intercooler. I ordered the resonator replacement ( the aluminum one ) should be here tomorrow. The dealership has replaced it twice already the last in 2014.

Extra notes, the wiring harness showed signs of problem testing. The harness replacement did clear the fuel temperature sensor code. I pulled the ECM this weekend, the screws were finger tight. I'll repost them on this post.

Prior to the harness replacement I noticed the ECM was hot to the touch ( really hot ) after the replacement it's much cooler.

It was the chalky stuff on the cover that made me think of smoke residue. It wiped off with just my finger like smoke residue. I've been informed from some of the long time members that's normal.

Also, it did get the T21 recall, did the the T21 only affects the 04?? Seems to me I've read it did affects the 06 as well and the comments were maf related!

Have you tried lubricating the MAF connector pins with Vaseline petroleum jelly.? Sometimes they're corroded deep inside.

Other possibilities here http://p2067.enginetroublecode.com/mercedes-benz-sprinter-3500

By starting yet another thread you make it difficult to look back on what has been suggested/done to date for you. I recall that there were comments. I don't recall any of the details.

It does seem like it is time to get a talented professional involved. Finding one of those individuals is often a challenge of itself.

Sorry I can't offer more.

vic

Thinks Vic,

Sorry about the multiple posts. Please feel free to move to my previous.

As far as the talented professional, metal or mechanical?

I’m no professional but my intake air temp usually reads anywhere from 5-20 degrees above ambient. 100 degrees higher seems like you need a new sensor.

I replaced the sensor, no change.

OK, since you have various sensors giving false readings you have tried to change them.
What else can it be, wiring between sensors and ECU, wiring between ECU and Battery, or ECU failure
The ECU doesnt appear to have any obvious issues, I would reccommend putting a small sachet of silica gel in the ECU when you seal it up as even the small amount of water in the air can cause issues..

IF THE ECU WAS HOT IT POINTS TO HIGH RESISTANCE IN THE LOOM eg the fingertight nuts create a difficult path for electricity and it gets hot, like a light bulb

recheck all connections are clean low resistance, then recheck
check all grounds in the engine bay then recheck (0.1V of drop or less)
check grounds under steering wheel then recheck
You need to do voltage drop tests on loaded circuits just checking for continuity on a circuit that is meant to handle any sort of load will give false results

My Father used to fix stuff like this for the Military and he always drummed into me POWERS AND GROUNDS and recently he was proved right yet again (somewhat smugly lol)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

the system relies on 3 wire sensors in the majority.

The 3 wires are:-
Ground (This is the senors ground, it completes the circuit)
5 volt reference (CRITICAL - signal is measured in comparision to this)
sensor/ signal (for ECU to interpret)

You need to get a multimeter and backprobe for these wires.
WARNING IMPROPER BACKPROBING CAN KILL AN ECU OR OTHER ELECTRONICS
IF YOU DONT FEEL CONFIDENT DONT DO IT..

WIth that said:
Set your meter to Volts DC in the 20V range
with the probe wires in the voltage slots NOT THE AMPERAGE / 10 AMP MAX 10 seconds slot (THIS IS ECU KILLER)

Put Negative Black probe to battery negative. touch red positive lead to battery positive and check for good earth conection of meter (you should see 12-13V this is to ensure readings are valid - do this periodically, especially if you get an unexpected reading)

DO NOT MOVE THE BLACK WIRE FROM THE BATTERY NEGATIVE DURING THIS ENTIRE PROCESS - THIS IS TO AVOID MISTAKES WHICH CAN KILL AN ECU

The fuel rail sensor is nice and easy to access at the front of the fuel rail from my recent experience

WIth the sensor plugged in -
Use a pin or paperclip (make sure its conductive) to push into ONE of the slots on the sensor rear
(do not be tempted to probe 2 at once they can cross = ECU KILLER)

now connect the red probe and turn ignition to position 2 (key on, engine off)
note the reading switch the ignition off and do the other 2 holes turning ign. off when changing probe
The reason to turn ign. off is the circuit is powered down and means less likely to cause damage.


one should read almost exactly 5v reference circuit is critical to proper functioning
one should read 0.5v (rail signal at ignition 2)
one should read 0V - check for continuity by changing the meter to resistance setting(do not move the probe wires at either end)

This process may need to be done on three different legs of the loom as there should be 3 5V ref circuits you may have lost 1 allowing van to run but weirdly

I think you may find the 5V ref is down or ground is not continuous to earth
I say this as you have communication with ECU via Autel but odd electrical issues.
follow these steps (at your own risk) and we can try and help more..

O6sprinter said:

I replaced the sensor, no change.

Click to expand...

which sensor?

The intake air sensors is on the plastic tube between the intercooler and EGR.

Thinks for your help,

I replaced the intake air temperature sensor no change. The intake air pressure sensor is the one the computer will not detect if it's plugged in or not. I can't remember the readings but i did check it after i replaced the wiring harness. Had low resistance to Earth ground, 5 volts to the sensor wire.


I'm looking for professional help. I'm starting to think a crack addiction would be cheaper than a sprinter. (Well at least mine anyway)

Why not get to Dr. A. (Andy Bittenbinder) in Clemson, South Carolina? 700 miles?

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7131&highlight=Thumbs

1. Telephone Consult

(May see if he can consult with a local mechanic/shop.)

2. Check his schedule if he might be traveling near Florida?

3. Can van drive to South Carolina?

4. If not, can you have towed or shipped to Dr. A?

You've already spent 3 months trying to fix the various issues and are not getting any happiness out of it.

Note: As you're mechanically inclined, you might work something out with Dr. A where he might do the diagnostics/troubleshooting and you do the replacing parts work by yourself or under his supervision. Could save a few bucks. Dr. A is big on educating Sprinter owners.

I read a lot about Dr. A. I'm looking for someone local with a DAD. Hopefully they can resolve this. I'm getting burnt out on this.

Sorry to bombard you with a wall of text previously, I will edit that into a guide elsewhere unfortunately I cant edit the previous post.

If your sensor wires read 0 and 5V you have good ref which is a good sign for the ECU..
lets start simple:
With the sensor plugged in what is the voltage across the intake air temp. sensor?

Please disregard that previous message about sensor, I realise its the intake air pressure sensor that is the issue
I have made that previous post into a guide in the write up section and added info about intake air pressure sensor
I still think ECU ground is the issue...
maybe when you have had a few days break it might be useful to you
I feel bad that I made you burnt out, I will stop harassing you now : )

Hay grumpy,

Thanks for your help, I checked the pressure sensor.

Pin 1 brown/red
2 violet/green
3 violet/red

1 to battery ground 5v
2 to battery ground 0v
3 to battery ground 0v

1 to 2 0v
1 to 3 4v
2 to 3 12v
3 to 1 4mv

I'm working on a deal with a RV dealer, that sells and services sprinters. Thay need some Carpentry work. Hopefully with this being a trade with the owner I can avoid some of the bull s**t.

I took it a shop on Friday, there website said they service sprinters. No joy $120 I think I know more about sprinters than Thay did. They asked me to bring it back, there sprinter guy was off, then why did they make a appointment the day he was off. I don't mind paying for service just don't need the bs, or damage!!!!

O6sprinter said:

Hay grumpy,

Thanks for your help, I checked the pressure sensor.

Pin 1 brown/red
2 violet/green
3 violet/red

1 to battery ground 5v
2 to battery ground 0v
3 to battery ground 0v

Click to expand...

I dont have this sensor so cant compare results.
Please confirm those numbers above are with sensor plugged in?
if so,
You appear to have signal shorted to ground somewhere...
I will assume bad ECU to Harness connection as you have mentioned heat/warmth that improved after you worked in that area
thats a big clue..

one of those 0V readings should be somewhere between 0.5 and 4.5
the fact that its 0V means that voltage is being sent somewhere and to get to zero its more than likely going to earth

can you set your meter to resistance/OHMS (leave the wires in the voltage holes of meter)
MAKE SURE YOU ARE ON OHMS NOT AMPS YOU CAN CAUSE DAMAGE OTHERWISE
and with sensor plugged in:
touch between battery ground and pin 2
touch between battery ground and pin 3

then unplug sensor and (being careful not to shove probes in and damage it if you front probe)
touch between ground and pin 2 on the harness connector
touch between ground and pin 3 on the harness connector

this will determine if its the new sensor or somewhere on the loom/ecu
if; both have continuity to ground with sensor unplugged
its the loom/ECU side, you would need to do the same test at the ecu terminal
if; both have continuity to ground with sensor plugged in (but not when unplugged) its the sensor
its a process of elimination..

You could then give the voltage readings of all 3 pins with meter negative on battery negative with sensor unplugged. That would get us to the next step.

Thanks again, I'm OK with replacing the ECM if that's the problem. I've talked to sos diagnostics, it seems that have a great reputation on this side of the pond. The truck is running ok ( for all I know ) it's not going into LHM. It has power, and turbo boost. No problem turning 4k+ rpm.

As per your instructions ( greatly appreciated)

Plugged in , key positions 2
Battery ground to 2. 0 ohm
Battery ground to 3 0 ohm

Plugged in key off
Battery ground to 2 3.5 ohm
Battery ground to 3 2.2 ohm

Unplugged key off
Battery ground to 2. 100k ohm
Battery ground to 3. 14k ohm

Unplugged key off
2 to 3. 114k ohm


If this helps anyone, I used 23ga. Nails. Thay slide in with no problems, clip on the lead's to the ohm meter.

Thanks Lee

I don't wear this will end up ( if the ECM is toast ) now what do I do????

I've emailed SOS, Thay were very responsive!!!! Also GDE again VERY responsive!!!!! GDE was happy to help if I had a healthy ECM, I'm considering it.

I have insomnia I can only sleep a couple hours a night, the sprinter gives me something of interest to read about. I've decided to stop writing at night ( half a sleep and frustrated isn't helping )

My apologies for pour spelling, posts/ replays that I should have managed better!!! Thanks to all of you!!!


Hears what I've learned about a ECM replacement, SOS $700 the guys that can get it done right the first time ( zero bs ) .

Dodge dealer, after seeing the dear in the head lights look!!!! NO

Mercedes dealer, we won't work on a Dodge!!!!! Please don't call back

I've looked at a couple of independent shops!!!! Just not feeling it

So far it's not a difficult choice, other than letting a zit face Russian kid solder a paper clip across your circuit board.

I'll see what Grumpy thinks???

O6sprinter said:

Plugged in , key positions 2
Battery ground to 2. 0 ohm
Battery ground to 3 0 ohm

The signal wire is definitely shorted to ground with it plugged in

Plugged in key off
Battery ground to 2 3.5 ohm
Battery ground to 3 2.2 ohm

Unplugged key off
Battery ground to 2. 100k ohm
Battery ground to 3. 14k ohm

The signal wire does not seem to be shorted to ground with it unplugged, although it needs to be energised to know for sure

Thanks Lee

Click to expand...

It looks like you have a bad sensor, even though its new..

you need to test again once more to get final results and be certain as board is not energised until key on 2 and also not all grounds inside ecu are connected to ground

removed the resistance test as although it should not be damaging its reading may not be accurate.

Do this:-
VOLTAGE tests unplugged key on

Batt. neg. to pin 1 = ?V
Batt. neg. to pin 2 = ?V
Batt. neg. to pin 3 = ?V

expect to see:-
5v, 0v and some other voltage between 0.5 and 4.5 - this would indicate a perfectly functioning system and a bad sensor.

Just had another look at circuit diagram

Unplugged key off
Battery ground to 2. 100k ohm - The signal wire has a 100K resistor between it nd ground, this would make this pin 2 the signal wire. The fact it has exactly 100K ohms means it has a good ground so that kinda points to the ECU ground being OK

Battery ground to 3. 14k ohm - This would therefore be ground and 14K of resistance to the battery is too much - definitely need that Key on unplugged measurement. This points to corrosion on the ECU pins or the new harness connector (how long has it been on the shelf? who knows?)

Unplugged key off
2 to 3. 114k ohm This is again showing high resistance in the ground wire - ie dirty/corroded ground
I suspect faulty sensor and bad ground..

Cleaning a ground is free..
Some *well lit* pictures of the ECU terminals and Harness to ECU terminals would be good.
The fact it got less hot when you changed the harness points to that connection too.

Here is a crude drawing of what I think is happening

https://ibb.co/giEG2o

Go straight to that connector