2004 Sprinter advice on maintenance

Greg_M

New member
I bought a 2004 Sprinter about a month ago. I found it on ebay but bought it straight from the seller. It had 152,000 miles on it and I've put about 2,000 on it. It had a refrigeration unit on it which I had removed. The nice thing about that is that the back is insulated and it stays nice and cool back there even on a 90+ sunny day. When the compressor for the refrigeration unit was removed I had a second alternator installed. That powers a separate electrical system for the cargo area. I've got 12v lighting and a 20 amp 120v inverter for my power tools.

The A/C compressor quit within 3 weeks so it's been replaced. I have filled the van with my tools and supplies so that it weights in at just a tad under 8,000 lbs. I drive mostly local at between 35 and 45 mph. It's suburbs type of stop and go traffic. I might pull a trailer once in a blue moon to haul trash from the job site. I have averaged about 8,000 miles a year on my work van in the past but this one is fun to drive and gets better mileage so I'll probably do about 10/12k miles a year or so with the Sprinter.

They said that the oil was changed, new air filter, and new fuel filter. They used 15w40 oil but I don't know what brand. The air filter is new (although they didn't put the cover back on properly) and the fuel filter looks new. The coolant looks new (bright green). I pulled the plastic cover on top and looked at the injectors (after reading about it here) and they look good but I found that the cover is missing 3 of the 7 screws. The foam inside the cover is oil soaked but it looks like it could have come from spilling the oil while filling. I looked around and I found the hydraulic control unit has a screw that's backing out (about half way). It looks like it takes 6 screws which would mean that the bottom 2 are missing.

Should I just get 2 more screws and tighten all of them or should I have someone look at it?

I've been doing a lot of reading here and I'm a little confused. Probably due to information overload. Any comments are welcome. Here are a few more questions.

I assume that I should change the oil every 12 months since I don't put a lot of miles on it although my trips are usually short. What oil should I use? My mechanic suggests Rolletta T 15w40 twice a year but that seems like a lot of oil to go through for the miles I drive. I also see that most prefer synthetic here.

I suppose that it would be a good idea to change the filter and fluid in the transmission since I have no idea when it was last done. I was thinking that I'd get the MB kit from europarts-sd. Should I just replace the fluid in the pan or drain the rest of the transmission as well? If I should replace all of the fluid then how do I do that? BTW, the red locking top for the dipstick tube is missing. The black cover is there but the red piece isn't. Is that needed?

I had a 2001 Dodge Cummins diesel a few years ago and changed all of the fluids out to Amsoil. I used a by-pass filter for the engine oil. Part of that change out was replacing the gear oil in both axels. I did notice a difference when I did that. Would it be a good idea to change the rear axel oil or is it best to just leave it alone?

I'm getting about 19 mpg. I'm going to get a scanguage to help me increase my mpg. Is there anything else I can do that will help increase the mpg?

My objective is to get this van to last a looooong time. There are a few small rust spots (like the roof seams) that I'm going to have fixed while they are small. I would love for this to be my last work van. For that to happen it would have to last 20 more years. At 10/12k a year I would think that it could be accomplished. So what do I need to know in order to attempt a run at that goal?
 

Greg_M

New member
BTW, I do have what I think is the rumble noise. It happens at only very low rpms and light acceleration. If I let my foot off of the peddle and then accelerate slightly harder it disappears.

Am I right in assuming that this is the harmless rumble and not shutter?
 

220629

Well-known member
//snip//
They said that the oil was changed, new air filter, and new fuel filter. They used 15w40 oil but I don't know what brand. The air filter is new (although they didn't put the cover back on properly) and the fuel filter looks new.
If you're not certain the oil is MercedesBenz approved for your engine you should change it.
The coolant looks new (bright green).
The coolant should be GO5 rated. The stuff I bought was not green. If yours is not GO5 rated it can reduce your chances of a long lived Sprinter.
I pulled the plastic cover on top and looked at the injectors (after reading about it here) and they look good but I found that the cover is missing 3 of the 7 screws. The foam inside the cover is oil soaked but it looks like it could have come from spilling the oil while filling. I looked around and I found the hydraulic control unit has a screw that's backing out (about half way). It looks like it takes 6 screws which would mean that the bottom 2 are missing.

Should I just get 2 more screws and tighten all of them or should I have someone look at it?
Can't answer all those, but I wouldn't assume the oil is from spillage unless that is confirmed.
I've been doing a lot of reading here and I'm a little confused. Probably due to information overload. Any comments are welcome. Here are a few more questions.

I assume that I should change the oil every 12 months since I don't put a lot of miles on it although my trips are usually short. What oil should I use? My mechanic suggests Rolletta T 15w40 twice a year but that seems like a lot of oil to go through for the miles I drive. I also see that most prefer synthetic here.
Many people use synthetic Mobil 1, but synthetic is not required. I use Mobile One Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 because it's available at Wally World. Whatever you use make certain it is MB approved. Do some searches there are lots of discussions.
I suppose that it would be a good idea to change the filter and fluid in the transmission since I have no idea when it was last done. I was thinking that I'd get the MB kit from europarts-sd. Should I just replace the fluid in the pan or drain the rest of the transmission as well? If I should replace all of the fluid then how do I do that? BTW, the red locking top for the dipstick tube is missing. The black cover is there but the red piece isn't. Is that needed?

I had a 2001 Dodge Cummins diesel a few years ago and changed all of the fluids out to Amsoil. I used a by-pass filter for the engine oil. Part of that change out was replacing the gear oil in both axels. I did notice a difference when I did that. Would it be a good idea to change the rear axel oil or is it best to just leave it alone?

I'm getting about 19 mpg. I'm going to get a scanguage to help me increase my mpg. Is there anything else I can do that will help increase the mpg?

My objective is to get this van to last a looooong time. There are a few small rust spots (like the roof seams) that I'm going to have fixed while they are small. I would love for this to be my last work van. For that to happen it would have to last 20 more years. At 10/12k a year I would think that it could be accomplished. So what do I need to know in order to attempt a run at that goal?
Sorry, I'm being dragged out the door. Hope this does some good. I'm certain others have good advice. Oh, welcome to the forum. AP/vic
 

TimJuhl

Member
Greg,
AP is absolutely correct in his cautions. Some of the folks who do such service may not have access to the proper fluid specifications for your sprinter and as a result may not service your van properly. If you are unsure about what was used you may want to do it yourself. To get to know your van I would suggest that you carefully peruse the T1N write-ups and database for general info and frequently check the discussion to see what's current.

The search function can be very handy - for example, I found these:

Changing transmission fluid - https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2557
Oil recommendations - https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6050&highlight=oil
Source of an owners manual if you don't have one - https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6144&highlight=2004+manual

Other things you might consider that have come up recently are 1.) the need to flush brake fluid 2.) Failure of harmonic balancer and/or belt tensioners, etc. 3.)The EGR valve has also been known to cause problems, especially in the earlier years. 4.) If your 2004 has a turbo resonator that might be an issue for you as well.

Your rumble strip noise may be due to 1.) fluid nearing the end of it's useful life or 2.) Low tranny fluid level. Be sure to follow instructions as to type of fluid (Sprinter/Crossfire) and how to properly check it. You'll need a service dipstick for this. When you change the fluid you will wan to drain the torque converter as well.

The missing red tab is not by itself important unless you lose the cap which will allow dirt to enter the tranny. I trimmed a red tab so it could be removed and reused. They are designed to lock the cap in place and in normal use must be broken to remove. You get the idea that MB doesn't want you messing with the tranny fluid :) A good source of parts is http://store.europarts-sd.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=250 - I've had good luck with them.

Please do not get the idea that Sprinters are more trouble prone than any other vehicle. The vast majority of users have little to complain about. That said, there are few mechanics trained to work on them so it is important for an owner to educate themselves as to possible issues and take an active role in their van's maintenance. I carry a few hard to get spares with me but as of yet haven't had any need to use them. Other members of the group have experienced problems and been gracious enough to share their experiences with the rest of us. With such knowledge we are able to do a much better job of maintaining our machines and diagnosing problems when the occur.

I don't know if your Sprinter will be the last van you need but there are a lot of high mileage units out there. Keep on top of the maintenance and yours has a chance of being one of them. I have 42000 on mine and drive 12-15 K per year so I'm hoping it will last as long as I need it....

Good luck!

Tim
 
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rlent

New member
The missing red tab is not by itself important unless you lose the cap which will allow dirt to enter the tranny. I trimmed a red tab so it could be removed and reused. They are designed to lock the cap in place and in normal use must be broken to remove.
While I suppose this is true (tab designed to be broken to be removed), the entire cap/tab assembly can be removed by simply giving it a good pull (and a good push to reinstall)
 

djc126

Member
Hi. Your transmission has likely been serviced before (but when? since you don't have any records). Interval is supposed to be 60K miles.

I've read that the black tab is the original from the factory and the red tab is for replacement. No tab means it's probably been checked but not necessarily serviced.

You can search ebay for the transmission dipstick tool. It's the same tool for the Benz 722.6 transmission.

Steve also has a good price on the long life H7 bulbs.

Regards,
 

Greg_M

New member
Thank you for help.

I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and change the engine oil and filter, transmission fluid and filter, and I guess I'll also need to change the coolant. I remember when I had my Dodge Diesel truck that it wasn't suppose to have the "green" coolant. I thought that green coolant might not be right so that's why I mentioned the color.

Here's my shopping list so far for europarts-sd:
Transmission service kit with MB fluid (add an extra liter of fluid & extra plugs with washers)
Transmission dip stick
Fuel filter (to have on hand in case of bad fuel)
oil filter
plus many misc parts

I understand that I can get the engine oil locally. Now I have to find out about the coolant, more searching.

Is it safe to put the front wheels on ramps? I can barely fit under the van.
 

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
Thank you for help.

Is it safe to put the front wheels on ramps? I can barely fit under the van.
Given the clearance the van has, I hope this is not a van-related problem - or you have more problems with your van than you have let on!:lol:

As long as you ramps are rated for the weight - no problem.
 

d_bertko

Active member
Greg,

At around your mileage I routed a vacation trip through Doktor Attenbinder's outside Pittsburgh. Best time and money I have spent so far. I learned so much about how to take care of my vehicle. The computer diagnostics were very informative. I got a clean bill of health on the 02 and have slept better ever since.

The egr valve, serpentine belt, glow plugs come to mind if your local guy is going to do the work.

I have only found the Mobil1 0-40w at Super Walmarts and then only some of the time. But I'll generally order a couple of cases off the Web if I have not had a chance to keep my supply up.
 

Greg_M

New member
Given the clearance the van has, I hope this is not a van-related problem - or you have more problems with your van than you have let on!:lol:

As long as you ramps are rated for the weight - no problem.
I can easily fit under the back of the van. I had no problems installing the hitch receiver. However, up front in the engine area the room is much more cramped. A little more room would make it much easier to work.

My Sprinter weights in at just under 8000lbs. My ramps are rated at 6500lbs. Since the rear wheels will be on the ground (only front wheels on the ramps) am I correct to conclude that it will be safe? I would assume that there would be less than 6500lbs on the ramps.

I know it may sound like a dumb question but I'd rather be a live dummy then a dead one!
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
My Sprinter weights in at just under 8000lbs. My ramps are rated at 6500lbs. Since the rear wheels will be on the ground (only front wheels on the ramps) am I correct to conclude that it will be safe? I would assume that there would be less than 6500lbs on the ramps.

I know it may sound like a dumb question but I'd rather be a live dummy then a dead one!
Your conclusion/assumption on the safety aspect of the ramps is correct
 

Greg_M

New member
Your conclusion/assumption on the safety aspect of the ramps is correct
Thank you. It's good to hear someone's feedback on this.

A quick update. I've got the transmission dip stick and engine oil filter on order.

Looking into the specs on the fluids that my regular mechanic has in his machines.

Brake fluid was flushed with BG Dot 4. I know that the book says Dot 4 plus but the specs on the BG Dot 4 exceeded one of the boiling points and was only about 10 or so degrees from the other boiling point. I don't put that many miles on the van each year so I'll just put the brake fluid on a 2 year change cycle (about 20k miles). That should change it out long before contamination brings the boiling points down enough to be any concern. Cost was $75.

Transmission fluid is BG synthetic. Got the specs and it does meet MB 236.10. Also talked to the area rep and he said that the only reason that 236.12 isn't listed is because the company hadn't tested it for that spec or something like that. Once the dip stick gets here I'm going to have my mechanic flush the system. I talked to him and his transmission guy about pulling the pan and he said that the power flush is just as good. They have pulled the pan off of transmissions after flushing them and the flush cleaned them out really well. I'll probably put the transmission flush on a 3 year schedule which should put it at about 30k miles. Cost is either $120 or $150 can't remember which it was.

Cooling system. It's got the wrong fluid in it so that has to be done. His machine has Shell extended life in it. Waiting for the spec sheet from his rep. I'll probably get it tomorrow. If it meets the specs then that will cost me $85. I'll put it on the same schedule as the transmission flush.

Engine oil. Don't know what brand the dealer used. I only know that it was 15w40. That's getting changed to Rotella T 15w40. I can get the filter cheaper than he can so he's letting me supply the filter. I'll change that once a year. Cost is what ever he charges me. I don't want to mess with it.

You can see that his charges are reasonable, probably because he does all the work on my vehicles.

Any thing else I should do or check? There are no leaks at the injectors.

harmonic balancer and/or belt tensioners - Didn't find any visible wobble, everything looks lined up and working properly.

EGR valve has also been known to cause problems - Don't know anything about it. Guess I have to do more searching.

If your 2004 has a turbo resonator that might be an issue for you as well - Don't know. If it does is it something that can just be removed or do you have to put something in it's place?

This searching is really eating up a lot of time. I've got to put this aside and catch up on some things but at the same time I want to get this van finished (maintenance caught up) so that I can move on. Once everything has been checked and serviced that needs it then I can setup a schedule and go back to just getting in and driving it.

BTW, the last few days I've noticed that the engine has idled a little high at different times, just 2 or 3 hundred rpms but it is noticeable.

My word these posts can get long fast!
 

TimJuhl

Member
If they haven't shipped the filters etc. yet you might want to have them throw in a couple of additional items:

1.) The Sprinter does not use a spin on oil filter like what you are used to... You get the pleated element and replacement O-rings - Be sure you push it all the way on and seat it properly. You may want to get a oil filter cap wrench to ease the process of removing and installing the filter. http://store.europarts-sd.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2280
2.) You may wish to replace the copper gasket on the oil pan drain plug http://store.europarts-sd.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2288
3.) Check out the air filter and replace if need be. You can't pick these up at the local NAPA store so it doesn't hurt to have one on hand.
4.) I also keep a fuel filter on hand "Just in case."

5.) The turbo resonator was installed in some 2004's and all 2005-2006 models. Early versions were prone to failure and could put you into "Limp home mode." The Q5 version is the latest version and most people have had good luck with it. Some have chosen to install an aftermarket aluminum turbo resonator eliminator to deal with the problem. If your engine has a bulbous plastic thingy attached to the output of the turbo then you have a turbo resonator. If it just has a hose you do not. If you have it, I strongly suggest entering "turbo Resonator" into the search function on this site and read up on it. Also, if you have a TR, when you are under the vehicle doing your other maintenance you should be able to see the small white sticker on the unit. Look to see if it is stamped "Q5"

Tim
 

Greg_M

New member
If they haven't shipped the filters etc. yet you might want to have them throw in a couple of additional items:

1.) The Sprinter does not use a spin on oil filter like what you are used to... You get the pleated element and replacement O-rings - Be sure you push it all the way on and seat it properly. You may want to get a oil filter cap wrench to ease the process of removing and installing the filter. http://store.europarts-sd.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2280
My mechanic said that he had the special wrench.

2.) You may wish to replace the copper gasket on the oil pan drain plug http://store.europarts-sd.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2288
Ordered 4 to go along with the 4 oil filters that I ordered. I'm going to save the old one and try the heat and drop into water trick that I read somewhere on this site to try and "restore" it to use again. I also ordered a spare drain plug just in case.

3.) Check out the air filter and replace if need be. You can't pick these up at the local NAPA store so it doesn't hurt to have one on hand.
It has a brand new air filter in it. I figured that when it needs replacing I can just order one since priority shipping is only 2 days. No dusty driving here to worry about.

4.) I also keep a fuel filter on hand "Just in case."
Got a spare one coming that will be kept in the van.

5.) The turbo resonator was installed in some 2004's and all 2005-2006 models. Early versions were prone to failure and could put you into "Limp home mode." The Q5 version is the latest version and most people have had good luck with it. Some have chosen to install an aftermarket aluminum turbo resonator eliminator to deal with the problem. If your engine has a bulbous plastic thingy attached to the output of the turbo then you have a turbo resonator. If it just has a hose you do not. If you have it, I strongly suggest entering "turbo Resonator" into the search function on this site and read up on it. Also, if you have a TR, when you are under the vehicle doing your other maintenance you should be able to see the small white sticker on the unit. Look to see if it is stamped "Q5"

Tim
Got it and there is no Q5 on it :(

Should I get one of these?

This place is only about 40 minutes or so from me.

Thank you for taking the time to share this info with me.

Also many thanks to everyone else!
 

djc126

Member
Hi. But Mercedes doesn't really recommended flushing the transmission on any of their vehicles that have the torque convertor drain plug.

ATF spec is now 236.14 with a newer 5127382EB ATF p/n.

As long as extended life diesel coolant is used - no problem. MB recommends 5-year or 150K miles.

You can look at the maintenance schedule and other docs at:

www.sprinterparts.net

Regards,
 

TimJuhl

Member
Greg,
You didn't say if you knew which version of TR you have. Anything other than a Q5 is suspect. Regarding the TR eliminator - a number of guys have gone that route and been happy with it. They've noticed a few differences (temps and sound) which you can read more about if you search the articles on this site. In my case, I carry a spare Q5, just in case. I got it on ebay for $44. I'm still on warranty for the engine and powertrain and don't want to give a dealer any excuse not to honor a warranty claim.

From what I've read the Sprinters most likely to experience TR failures are typically heavily laden (like RV Conversions) that are working their engines pretty hard. In my case, I monitor LOD (% power) with my Scangage II and when it tops 85 I typically manually downshift (thanks to Sailquik for the idea.) Not only is it easier on the engine it also helps with mileage.

I've personally put 15 K on my Sprinter (out of 42 k total), most of which was on long cross-country trips. I've done a lot of driving at higher altitudes (max 10800 ft) and twisty mountain roads. I haven't had any problems whatsoever. The turbo really makes a difference! Others have not been so lucky but I think there are more people out there who've had good experiences than bad. Nonetheless, I believe in being prepared both in knowledge and hard to get spare parts.

Regarding reusing the copper washer, I use that trick on the copper washers used on the sparkplugs for my aircraft. Does the job.

Good luck!

Tim
 

Greg_M

New member
Hi. But Mercedes doesn't really recommended flushing the transmission on any of their vehicles that have the torque convertor drain plug.

ATF spec is now 236.14 with a newer 5127382EB ATF p/n.

Regards,
Question, why not flush it? What harm can flushing do? As for the spec, why wouldn't I be able to use the spec that was in place when my van was made? Just because there is an updated spec shouldn't the older spec still work?

My questions might sound like a smart :censored: but they aren't intended that way. I just don't want to miss something.
 

Greg_M

New member
Greg,
You didn't say if you knew which version of TR you have. Anything other than a Q5 is suspect. Regarding the TR eliminator - a number of guys have gone that route and been happy with it. They've noticed a few differences (temps and sound) which you can read more about if you search the articles on this site. In my case, I carry a spare Q5, just in case. I got it on ebay for $44. I'm still on warranty for the engine and powertrain and don't want to give a dealer any excuse not to honor a warranty claim.
All I know is that I didn't see the Q5. I'll try and find some info on it and decide. I don't care if the turbo is louder but I'm curious about the temps.

From what I've read the Sprinters most likely to experience TR failures are typically heavily laden (like RV Conversions) that are working their engines pretty hard. In my case, I monitor LOD (% power) with my Scangage II and when it tops 85 I typically manually downshift (thanks to Sailquik for the idea.) Not only is it easier on the engine it also helps with mileage.
Mine is about 8000 lbs with me in it and that's the everyday weight. It weights several hundred more when I have an A/C system in the back but that's not often. My driving is mostly around town 35-45 mph or so.

I read something about downshifting to increase mileage. Got to read up on that.

I am getting a scanguage and I'm leaning towards buying the used tuner box for sale here on this site. I know when I changed the injectors in the Dodge Ram I had I also added a box to it and my mileage went up about 20% from 15mpg to over 18. Part of that was the larger injectors but the box helped. My mileage went up even though I did have "fun" with it.
 

rlent

New member
Transmission fluid is BG synthetic. Got the specs and it does meet MB 236.10. Also talked to the area rep and he said that the only reason that 236.12 isn't listed is because the company hadn't tested it for that spec or something like that.
News Flash:

It might be "approved" by BG, but it sure as hell ain't approved by Mercedes ..... read this page and to understand what is an "approved" MB fluid (and conversely, what might not be):

Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids (MB BeVo)

.... and then go here to verify that BG is not one of the ones approved to meet 236.10 spec:

236.10 Spec Approvals

Once the dip stick gets here I'm going to have my mechanic flush the system. I talked to him and his transmission guy about pulling the pan and he said that the power flush is just as good. They have pulled the pan off of transmissions after flushing them and the flush cleaned them out really well.
Of course, there is no way that they will be able to remove the ferrous metal debris off the magnet in the pan .... or inspect the pan for evidence of an impending large scale failure - that if caught early, might prevent the entire tranny from self-destructing ...... but hey - nevermind ..... your "mechanic" and BG sez everything will be wunderbar ..... retards .... :bash:

Now - contemplate what kinda "fix" BG is gonna wanna do if you have tranny problems .... I'm sure they'll give ya an immediate go-ahead to have your dealer order that $7K replacement transmission right on in ....... :smirk:
 
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rlent

New member
Question, why not flush it?
..... uhmm .... cause it ain't what the mfg. recommends to be done ?

Plus see my post above.

What harm can flushing do?
Good question .... one that it might pay to have answer to, before doing the procedure ....


As for the spec, why wouldn't I be able to use the spec that was in place when my van was made? Just because there is an updated spec shouldn't the older spec still work?
Yes it should ..... however there is a (possible) question of shelf life .....

Not to mention, there might be some reasons to be running the latest and greatest .......

My questions might sound like a smart :censored: but they aren't intended that way. I just don't want to miss something.
I'll see your "smart :censored:", and raise ya two ..... :smilewink:
 

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