Rustoleum Epoxy Enamel white spray paint job? Anyone done it before?

I had such good results painting behind my license plate with this spray paint from home depot, but my paint is too faded for it to blend in perfectly. It's just a tad bit brighter and newer looking. I didn't notice any runs or spray lines... I'm tempted to spray the whole van with it. Anyone got any pictures of their results from this treatment on top of arctic white oem paint? It would make touch ups so easy.

Looks great but I'm undecided between spray and roller paint. I suppose the roller paint would be cheaper. But could one get better results with the spray? It does have a nice fan tip.

I have wondered the same about Rustoleum Appliance Enamel. That's tough stuff!!

I used SEM ProMax Automotive Enamel on my plastic grill. 3 pics below are from when i first applied it and one is right before i sold the truck 12 yrs later. the grill held up great and i put it through some abuse. I used to have 4 lights. i lost 2 along the way after after i ran over a stop sign in the snow. After seeing how it held up on plastic i have no doubt it would do well on steel.


https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/sem-promax-general-purpose-enamel-p-15359.aspx



https://s10.postimg.org/3kfrfw58p/truck_pics_002.jpg
https://s10.postimg.org/fz2jg8c6h/truck_pics_003.jpg
https://s10.postimg.org/4zhc4me1l/truck_pics_008.jpg
https://s10.postimg.org/lahg0yleh/iphone_pics_11.16.13_355.jpg

I used Rustoleum on the entire drivers side of my truck. I had it stored in a boat yard for the winter and a van caught on fire two cars over, the car next to my truck and the van were "toast" the drivers side of my truck had burnt paint, exploded windows, melted tires and burnt topper. The ins. company wanted to total the truck. I had the truck since day 1 and didn't want to start over. I worked out a deal with the ins company who paid me just under the total amount for me to "fix" the damage. Long story short I sprayed the side with Rustoleum. To get the best finish I used rubbing compound and an electric buffer, it looked.

RVCuisineScene said:

I used Rustoleum

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Do you have any pictures? Please?



Brad, looks great, but I'm overwhelmed with choices.

Here is a little paint survey done on a 2006 Arctic White roof panel. None of them quite match all are much shinier and smoother. The cheap project source and Valspar plastic paint had issues with uneven/runny coats. For my money I'm going with the appliance epoxy at least on the inside. It looks a little pink in the pictures but not in real life.

I did have a little issue with the second coat on the appliance paint. First coat looked beautiful second coat puckered up and spider webbed but I am not sure if this was a reaction because the first coat wasn't fully cured or because the paint temperature and van temperature were hot and cold. Directions say to spray second coat within 10 minutes or after 1 week.

First picture is under fluorescent lighting the second under warm LED.

I've used the Rustoleum Appliance paint for many, many years on different repairs including just-get-by fiberglass boat quick repairs. It works great for me. It is not an overly tough paint though as compared to real automotive products.

One tip. Unless the formula has changed the paint removes easily with acetone even after fully cured.

vic

Here’s a link to the garage Journal on spraying rustoleum and thinning when purchase in quarts or gallons. Depending on the thinner it can take a long to fully cure.
It appears that acetone, mineral spirts and xylene are the solvent recommendations depending on the age of the can.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280334

we thin oil paint with Penetrol. it attacks the vehicle, not the body, as my old boss used to say. Just remember, if you thin paint enough, it becomes stain.


https://www.flood.com/products/paint-additives/penetrol-oil-based-paint-additive

I'm looking at doing the entire lower 1/3 panel with Appliance Epoxy. Have got rust blisters boring away at the doors and panels and I need to do something about it... I wire wheeled the runner under the cargo door and did that small piece with this epoxy yesterday. It definitely looks brighter than the old arctic white but I feel like a slight aesthetic mismatch is better than letting the rust eat away the steel...

My van has light rust spots all over and a few significant ones. I want to do the exterior in raptor eventually but right now I'm looking at just the floor. Thinking POR-15 for the couple bad rust spots and then that Rustoleum recipe above sounds attractive. I want to keep it cheap at the moment and I think a quart after being thinned would coat the floor. If I can get the floor done then I can move on to insulation!

full metal racket said:

... I want to keep it cheap at the moment and I think a quart after being thinned would coat the floor. If I can get the floor done then I can move on to insulation!

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The appliance paint is quite thin to begin with. The appliance paint is glossy which works for exterior body repairs. It holds up well to the sun.

Not that you asked...
I would suggest that a Urethane modified Alkyd Enamel aka Porch and Deck Enamel is a better choice for the floor. It has much more body than does the appliance paint. I roll/brush painted the 2004 using that paint. I did very little prep. It has kept the rust pops at bay for 5+ years now. The finish has dulled a bit though.

My guess is that a single quart will do your floor. I see no reason to to stay white color if you are covering the painted metal with flooring. Maybe one of your mates has a partial gallon of porch paint on hand?

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=329061#post329061

vic