Double Din install Sprinter T1N

freestyle72

New member
Ok so I am installing a DDX9903s since I already have it and wanted for the apple car play/android auto etc. Dunno what I am doing with the original single din spot yet, but probable will put one of those cup holder/storage things in.

So this job is not for the faint of heart, there is definitely some angle grinder work to be done in close proximity to A LOT of wiring. Before I started doing my cuts I tried to tuck up all the wires in behind the upper dash pieces.

Now First I had to remove the dash trim piece in front of the instrument panel to access all the bolts that hold the gear selector cover on. After undoing this its just a matter of popping tabs and pulling the unit out. It helps to shift to another gear (apply your parking brake) to give yourself room between the shift and the dash (you will see what I mean).

After that I had to do a lot of measurement and test fitting, and it was very close to not working due to the width of the unit and the location of the gear selector bracket. This can be remedied a couple ways I chose to strategically cut the bracket and then use a hammer to gain about an 1/8th of an inch in width so everything sits level and square to the mercedes plastic panel. I've marked in the pictures the areas that needed trimming.

Whats left for me to do is cut up the original mercedes plastic cover for now, but I will make up a new cover out of 1/8" aluminum plate to replace the plastic one since the plastic one is embossed for the switches and all that stuff.

I recommend doing move of the trimming with a dremel, I used a 4.5" angle grinder, but it was nerve racking working so close to all that wiring, I'd recommend covering the wiring while cutting and go as slow as needed to maintain 100% control.
 

Attachments

Patrick of M

2005 T1N 2500 (NA spec)
FWIW I like using my Fein multi master for close in delicate cutting, the tool also has a good reach and adjustment for weird angles. A fresh blade will cut steel.
 

freestyle72

New member
Hi Guys small update. Used the original plate to trace out the shape for the new one. The material I used was the 1/8" hardboard (same stuff peg board is made out of). I would much rather 1/8" ABS sheet. Then I cut it out, fit to dash and then did some measurements to find my pieces for opening.

I think I might try fibreglassing this cover together sanding and then painting.

Still waiting on some wiring kit for the radio to lengthen the to stock harness down to the location.

See attached pictures:
 

Attachments

tonydobbs

Member
Out of curiosity, why did you place it to the right of the shifter instead of in the original location? Was it because the fabrication is easier in this location?
 

InterBlog

Member
That's a lot of work! We debated doing something like that but concluded that the DIY cost-benefit ratio wasn't working for us. Therefore we ended up installing one of those pop-up units, this one by Pioneer. I overcame my skepticism after seeing other Sprinter owners who made the transition to that unit. The screen is not the best quality, especially not when compared to Garmin, but it was a straightforward, easy swap. Goodbye awful radio code.

https://i.imgur.com/gV30N96.jpg
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
I haven’t measured it, but I suspect the upper single-DIN opening could become a new home for your dislocated switches? Or will you just use the switch blanks by the dash vent?
 
Last edited:

freestyle72

New member
Out of curiosity, why did you place it to the right of the shifter instead of in the original location? Was it because the fabrication is easier in this location?
Yes considerably less fabrication. Right below the radio is the main section of heater duct. I live in Canada. Losing this for me is not optional. I saw one member with a T1n cut the top of his dash out which also occurred to me but then I would have wanted to fibreglass it out smooth, and again losing heater ducts. I think this was is the least amount of work since you are working on a flat plane or near enough.
 
Last edited:

freestyle72

New member
I haven’t measured it, but I suspect the upper single-DIN opening could become a new home for your dislocated switches? Or will you just use the switch blanks by the dash vent?
Ya I was thinking about that as well. I only had the two standard switches ASR and the light one. So easiily relocated. I might run a custom switch set off amazon with USB and cool lights. I like the idea for storage though since there isn’t much for compartments and I like to keep my fuel reciepts and invoices etc in there.
 

tonydobbs

Member
Yes considerably less fabrication. Right below the radio is the main section of heater duct. I live in Canada. Losing this for me is not optional. I saw one member with a T1n cut the top of his dash out which also occurred to me but then I would have wanted to fibreglass it out smooth, and again losing heater ducts. I think this was is the least Malik of work since you are working on a flat plane or near enough.
Sure, that makes perfect sense. I have gone through the same dilemma myself.
 

Top Bottom