Leaking deep cycle battery

Any deep-cycle-battery-experts out there?

I've noticed some acid leakage from a 2nd battery I installed in the engine compartment. The acid looks
like it's eating up everything in it's path. I've cleaned the area with a baking soda solution which did a good job but the leakage persists. This same problem has happened to me with 2 previous deep-cycle batteries and my garage floor has ample proof.

Trying to get reliable info is tough but one mechanic suggested Sprinter's alternator may be charging the battery at too high a voltage causing the acid to boil & escape from the top vents.

Anyone experience such problems or know of a solution? The battery dealer is willing to replace the battery but he tells me the same will happen with the next one.

Thanks,
Josh

Can you post which brand, type (flooded/Gel/AGM), and model of battery, please?

Which battery?

Your battery charge must be maintained at 12.55V at all times.

If battery voltage drops below 12.1V the battery must be re-charged .

If the battery drops below 12.1V it's likely damaged and needs to be replaced.

The battery gases must be vented to the outside via a central hose vent the only suitable battery for an engine bay for the charge to be maintained , is the use of a Lead antimony when fitted to the engine bay.

If your Auxiliary battery exceeds 100 amps it must not be fitted as to damage to the basic electrical system.

Relays and fuses vary as to requirements on the NCV fitted between batteries which will draw a moderate current when using a Aux battery system codes EE8,E28, EP4.as these relays are meant for heavier use to suit a camper and or caravan attached; not meant for a basic draw of power for light accessory's in the front of a van.example a 2000 watt inverter pure sine wave to power off, accessories.

Which is why everyone uses an independent Aux system that by passes the Mercedes-Benz electrical programming, that gets so many into trouble. Install a separate visual aid fuel cell gauge indicator dual { one for each battery a combined single unit} this shows both battery's charge rate separately,or a volt meter, with an added kill switch when not in use; even one single LED light draws amperage and the loss of power is at the junction of the main leads to the power-up source. one week and any battery can lose the required voltage of 12.55 V. that will drop below minimum charge requirements of 12.1V.

I'd advise a separate battery isolator switch rated between 100 to 150 to maintain the full battery's charge when not being used as this isolates any possibility of grounding out with earth leakage on a current draw loss, along the lines.
Richard.

What is the tested charge rate of your system. It does sound like a battery getting to hot from overcharging and boiling the fluid off.

I'm not sure if it's possible, but if the charge rate is too high, and it's not caused by a defect in the system, is there a way to change that? Another regulator for the aux. battery?

RIent replying I'll sit back on this as this another alternative if you guys are prepared to listen
Richard

Josh said:

Trying to get reliable info is tough but one mechanic suggested Sprinter's alternator may be charging the battery at too high a voltage causing the acid to boil & escape from the top vents.

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This is possible - what voltage is the alternator charging it at ? This condition is aggravated by heat (the hotter the battery, the less voltage required - at least with lead acid technology AFAIK)

Anyone experience such problems

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I, and a friend of mine, both had such problems (battery acid reflux )- it appears to be related to the some Walmart batteries we both bought (same model), which were made by the same supplier for Walmart (can't remember if it Exide or Johnson Controls - but they were the yellow ones) .... it appears the problem was the batteries were defective in terms of case design. We both had them replaced, with newer, updated batteries with a different case design and have had no further problems.

FWIW, I have a four battery auxiliary battery bank, populated with either Group 29 or 31 (don't recall which) 12v Walmart Marine Hybrid batteries (black), having an individual capacity of 125 A/H, and a total bank cacpacity of 500 A/H - of which, 250 A/H is usable (to avoid discharging below 50% depth of discharge) My alternator, the original 150A Bosch unit, seems to charge them fine, with no problems, along with the Group 49 starting battery in the engine compartment.

The battery dealer is willing to replace the battery but he tells me the same will happen with the next one.

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How does he know that, to a certainty ?

You might want to read this:

Deep Cycle Battery FAQ

+1 on what brand battery you are using.

I'm curious to see how your charging system is configured with the second battery.

I personally despise wet cell batteries due to their draw backs.

I'm a big fan of AGM batteries. A quality battery from Lifeline or MK will be similar to what you already have from the factory under the floor.
Understand that these AGM batteries are sealed, and do not require maintenance. I would recommend a group 31 AGM from either of these companies.

For people who are able to install multiple batteries I highly suggest 6 volt batteries in pairs of two to make 12 volts. You are shooting yourself in the foot if you decide to use 12 volt batteries for deep cycle applications as they are NOT true deep cycle batteries, and will not last anywhere as close to the 6 volts.

I think my Alternator was putting out about 14.1 Volts, which is good for AGM's, and some Gel cell batteries.

Expert Marine said:

For people who are able to install multiple batteries I highly suggest 6 volt batteries in pairs of two to make 12 volts.

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Undoubtedly a far better solution, from strictly a technology perspective.

You are shooting yourself in the foot if you decide to use 12 volt batteries for deep cycle applications as they are NOT true deep cycle batteries, and will not last anywhere as close to the 6 volts.

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Also true - however from a purely economic perspective which would you say is the better deal:

1. 4 Walmart 12v hybrid Marine/Starting Batteries with a total cost of around $350 (assuming you don't have old batteries and pay the core charge) - which carry a 36 month pro-rated warranty, with 18 month free replacement, or

2. 4 high-end 6v wet batteries (Trojan, etc.) - cost is roughly double the above ..... and if you can find any warranty info for anything other than their RE series batteries (which are not warranted for use in a vehicle near as I can tell) on their website please point me to it ....

3. 4 high-end AGM batteries (Concorde, etc.) .... from what I understand, cost is at least similar to no. 2 above (if not higher) and again, need to know the warranty .....

FWIW, I have 2 different friends with AGM batteries in their Sprinters - both have managed to kill them (one in around a year, the other in under 3 years)

I've killed my bank once in a little over a years time (due to two instances accidental stupidity on my part) - Walmart replaced all 4 batteries, no charge ....

The batteries are built up out of 2 volt cells, 12 volt nominal equates to 6 cells, a 6 volt battery is simply three 2 volt cells, and string two 6 volt batteries together and you're back to 6 cells. It makes no odds whether you use a single 12 volt or two 6 volt batteries.

Optima has the same opinion on their website. http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com/faq17.html

Expert Marine said:

+1
For people who are able to install multiple batteries I highly suggest 6 volt batteries in pairs of two to make 12 volts. You are shooting yourself in the foot if you decide to use 12 volt batteries for deep cycle applications as they are NOT true deep cycle batteries, and will not last anywhere as close to the 6 volts.

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But Expert is entirely correct that, generally speaking, 12v "deep cycle" batteries are not true deep cycles - they tend to be "hybrid" batteries ......... designed for a little bit of each type of duties (starting/low amperage, long draw) but no place close to the best at either task. Of course it depends on the specific battery.

Ofcourse, a deep cycle battery is different from a starting battery. However a 6 volt battery isn't deep cycle by virtue of being 6 volt. True deep cycle is fundamental to the design of the battery regardless of whether that battery is 6 or 12 volt.

rlent said:

But Expert is entirely correct that, generally speaking, 12v "deep cycle" batteries are not true deep cycles - they tend to be "hybrid" batteries ......... designed for a little bit of each type of duties (starting/low amperage, long draw) but no place close to the best at either task. Of course it depends on the specific battery.

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312 diesel said:

The batteries are built up out of 2 volt cells, 12 volt nominal equates to 6 cells, a 6 volt battery is simply three 2 volt cells, and string two 6 volt batteries together and you're back to 6 cells. It makes no odds whether you use a single 12 volt or two 6 volt batteries.

Optima has the same opinion on their website. http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com/faq17.html

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This is true, but typically the the 2 volt cells in the 6 volt batteries are much larger.

A deep cycle battery is not dependant on voltage, only on technology and design. I own a set of 12 volt deep cycle agm batteries that have the most charge cycles available on the market.

bikergar said:

This is true, but typically the the 2 volt cells in the 6 volt batteries are much larger.

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yes the much larger cells will have more capacity.

bb

OrioN said:

A deep cycle battery is not dependant on voltage, only on technology and design. I own a set of 12 volt deep cycle agm batteries that have the most charge cycles available on the market.

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yes, but if you had the same voltage in six volt batteries, you would have more storage capacity and longer run times between charges.

bb

BBlessing said:

yes, but if you had the same voltage in six volt batteries, you would have more storage capacity and longer run times between charges.

bb

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"same voltage in six volt batteries" ?? Explain please?

OrioN said:

"same voltage in six volt batteries" ?? Explain please?

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if you ave a bank of 12v batteries that total 48v. that would be 4 batteries. to have the same voltage in 6v batteries, you would need 8 batteries. the only difference would be an increase in capacity and and increased lifespan due to a reduction in wear and tear on the cells.

bb

BBlessing said:

if you ave a bank of 12v batteries that total 48v. that would be 4 batteries. to have the same voltage in 6v batteries, you would need 8 batteries. the only difference would be an increase in capacity and and increased lifespan due to a reduction in wear and tear on the cells.

bb

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Let me clarify... my 12v deep cycle batteries have '6v' plates inside. That is, instead of of 3 x 2v plates, they have 6 plates in a case exactly twice the volume as the company's 6v models. The plates are wired internally to create a 12v output. The lifetime or cycles for my 12v's are exactly the same as 2 6v's wired for 12v.

OrioN said:

Let me clarify... my 12v deep cycle batteries have '6v' plates inside. That is, instead of of 3 x 2v plates, they have 6 plates in a case exactly twice the volume as the company's 6v models. The plates are wired internally to create a 12v output. The lifetime or cycles for my 12v's are exactly the same as 2 6v's wired for 12v.

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i am sorry you are so confused on such a simple subject. your batteries do not have 6v cells, most batteries are comprised of 2v (1.5 nominal) cells in different configurations. they have 6 2v cells. a 6 volt battery of approximately the same physical size as your 12v battery has 3 2v cells that are typically twice the size as the 2v cells in the 12v battery thereby giving the 6v batteries more capacity to hold a charge and be less impacted by duty cycle. more capacity = less duty cycle = longer chronological life.

bb