Forgot to paint drilled holes inside sprinter van conversion.

linnmagic

New member
Will the holes get rusty if you don’t apply paint to the holes you drilled inside the van? I got worried after I read it at sprintervanusa.com that it will get rusty even if it’s inside. I already put back all the wall and ceiling panels so it’s a lot of work to remove them and then put them back, should I be worried? Here is the link where I read it. https://sprintervanusa.com/2015/09/28/logistic-track-the-super-connector/




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autostaretx

Erratic Member
The answer is going to vary all over the map depending upon each individual hole.

What is the hole being used for?
... if it's receiving a sheet metal screw, that would've cut through the paint anyway. (see footnote)
... if "dissimilar metals" are involved (aluminum pressed hard against the steel, or aluminum pop-rivets in the hole) i'd worry a bit more. Stainless and bronze are safe. Galvanized or zinc-chromate-plated screws add protection.

Is it getting wet?
... either nighttime moisture condensing on that particular metal, or "actively" such as near a shower?

Is it getting exposed to salt water?
... do you park/camp near the sea and spray?

What time frame are we speaking of?
... 5 years? 20?

Are your other "bare metal" screws and nuts rusting?

--dick
p.s. and to really cause sleepless nights: did you capture all of the "scarf" (shreds of metal) cast off by the drilling process, or are they lurking in the bottom creases and folds of your body's sheet metal as sharp-edged inciters of paint damage and rust-starting points?
p.p.s. so far i haven't seen consequences of scarf in 12 years of ownership (despite occasionally exploring those deep recesses in search of dropped nuts/washers/coins/"things")

footnote: if the hole depends upon "edge-strength" (like a RivNut or sheet metal acrew) then there's more cause to worry than if it's experiencing a "distributed" load (like a PlusNut or through-bolt with washer and nut). If you have (far) more fasteners than are "really needed" for the load, then there's less worry (one or two (of ten?) getting weaker may not hurt)
 
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linnmagic

New member
The answer is going to vary all over the map depending upon each individual hole.

What is the hole being used for?
... if it's receiving a sheet metal screw, that would've cut through the paint anyway. (see footnote)
... if "dissimilar metals" are involved (aluminum pressed hard against the steel, or aluminum pop-rivets in the hole) i'd worry a bit more. Stainless and bronze are safe. Galvanized or zinc-chromate-plated screws add protection.

Is it getting wet?
... either nighttime moisture condensing on that particular metal, or "actively" such as near a shower?

Is it getting exposed to salt water?
... do you park/camp near the sea and spray?

What time frame are we speaking of?
... 5 years? 20?

Are your other "bare metal" screws and nuts rusting?

--dick
p.s. and to really cause sleepless nights: did you capture all of the "scarf" (shreds of metal) cast off by the drilling process, or are they lurking in the bottom creases and folds of your body's sheet metal as sharp-edged inciters of paint damage and rust-starting points?
p.p.s. so far i haven't seen consequences of scarf in 12 years of ownership (despite occasionally exploring those deep recesses in search of dropped nuts/washers/coins/"things")

footnote: if the hole depends upon "edge-strength" (like a RivNut or sheet metal acrew) then there's more cause to worry than if it's experiencing a "distributed" load (like a PlusNut or through-bolt with washer and nut). If you have (far) more fasteners than are "really needed" for the load, then there's less worry (one or two (of ten?) getting weaker may not hurt)


Hi, Thanks for the reply. I was doing something like this

https://youtu.be/xkjNfFCAuik

But I used a 1” square aluminum tubing instead of steel and fastened it with nuts and bolts, then I put back the original paneling so the aluminum bar is hidden behind the panel. The reason I did this is because there is a big gap about an inch between the panel and the wall so I can’t mount the L track without crashing the panel.


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linnmagic

New member
Hi, Thanks for the reply. I was doing something like this

https://youtu.be/xkjNfFCAuik

But I used a 1” square aluminum tubing instead of steel and fastened it with nuts and bolts, then I put back the original paneling so the aluminum bar is hidden behind the panel. The reason I did this is because there is a big gap about an inch between the panel and the wall so I can’t mount the L track without crashing the panel.


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I forgot to mention that the sprinter is brand new, I did not capture the metal scarf from drilling the holes.


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autostaretx

Erratic Member
I drilled (and didn't paint) my first holes back in Jan 2006 ... the Sprinter was 2 weeks old.
But the PlusNuts i was putting in the holes do have light zinc-chromate plating.

From the video you referenced, i doubt that he painted his holes...
In fact, he painted his steel side rail gray before he drilled the holes through it.
He could've drilled first and then painted it

--dick
 
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SprinterSnale

'05 T1N 3500 - NorCalSprinterCampout
My '05 had six un-painted holes from the '05 solar installation, In '16, I added twelve holes for two more panels. There was no rust in the old holes. They were sealed top and bottom with silicon and that technique was replicated on new holes. Gooping silicon over the fasteners topside could help with a goods night's rest. I'm not an expert on electrolysis but used stainless steel hardware.

With the exception of the winshield area and roof seams (on a T1), rust is of little concern to most California vans, unless residing next to the sea, boat launching or full time in snow country.

Many corrosive issues on the forum are geographically specific. Note the location of vans when researching for additional peace of mind. I thank Santa Rosa mechanic, Ben Crilly, for pointing this out after I voiced my rust concerns from forum research.
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
The thing to remember about "silicone" is that there are two "families": acid-based and "neutral" (ammonia smell)
For example, GE Silicone 1 is neutral, GE Silicone II is acid.
Avoid acid-based.

--dick
 
HI

Reviving this old thread since I think I made the same mistake but on the roof of my van. Last week I installed a MaxxAir fan. I primed the big hole I cut for the fan. However when I installed the fan base, I did not prime the screw holes. I clamped the fan base to the van, drilled and then installed. I did not vacuum or remove the screw hole shavings. I then used the 3M waterproof tape (I think that is the brand tape) that came with the fan (from AdWag).

FWIW - I’m in Seattle. It rains all the time.

Do I need to tear off the tape, pull the fan base, vacuum the shavings, prime the holes and then re-install? Or will I be fine from rust? If I need to do a reinstall, where would I buy the tape to reseal the fan?

I'm pretty sure I know the answer but would love some input to validate my assumptions.

Thanks!

Ryan
 
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autostaretx

Erratic Member
I'm also in Seattle ...

Are you just using sheet metal screws (no interior structure) to hold the fan?

When i did mine, i put a wooden frame beneath the roof metal to bear most of the force turning the curved roof to flat.
I also have squishable butyl tape between the fan's plastic frame and the roof.
I'm using stainless nuts and bolts instead of simply sheet metal screws.
(i also did think to Q-tip some paint into the drilled holes)

If you're only using sheet metal screws, but the tops are well-sealed against water, then you'd probably get a bit of benefit by squirting/brushing/dabbig some paint up around the fan (take off the interior trim ring and see if you can reach the screws)

--dick
 
Hi Dick,
Thanks for responding! I am using the Adventure Wagon kit which included a plastic frame on the bottom. I am using the included metal screws - they are stainless steel screws I believe. No tape between frame and roof. It was frame direct on roof, clamp frame and screw into adapter under roof. Then I covered everything with the tape.
Ryan
 

I3uller

Member
Hi Dick,
Thanks for responding! I am using the Adventure Wagon kit which included a plastic frame on the bottom. I am using the included metal screws - they are stainless steel screws I believe. No tape between frame and roof. It was frame direct on roof, clamp frame and screw into adapter under roof. Then I covered everything with the tape.
Ryan
If I remember correctly from doing my install of the fan with the Adwag kit, those screws are all underneath the tape and should be ok. When I cut out the holes for all my windows I left the cut outs outside in Tacoma for about 4 months in the winter. Untreated edges of that metal, literally sitting in rain every day for 4 months in damn near every single day rain and it looked brand new. I wouldn't bother pulling everything apart. Highly unlikely you'll see any issues with that over the next 10 years.
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Yes, the fact that the screws are holding on to the underframe makes all the difference ... even if there was some rusting of the metal, it's really the screws-in-plastic that's holding everything in place, you're not just depending upon one screw thread in thin sheet metal.

You should be fine

--dick
 

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