2008 Slow Crank Starts When Jumped

PIPELAYR123

New member
First time poster here.

Last few months have been having starting issues. Cranks very slow. When jumped it starts.
When first started happening if truck was running for over an hour I would shut off. Try to restart no good. No codes / check engine light.

Here is what I have done so far.

Replaced battery.
Replaced Y" cable.
Replaced crank and cam sensors.

I have been to three mechanics with three different answers.
Could this be a starter issue?
Always cranks just faster when jumped and truck starts.
Alternator issue?
I can disconnect battery and truck runs with everything on , lights, etc.
Autozone checked and said charging system is fine.

Could this be related to bad glow plugs? or injector related?

how do I test them without removing?
came across a video to check for resistance . All got reading of about 0.8.
If this was fuel or glow plug related would this not trigger a code?
Very frustrating. Any recommendations?

Thanks
 

showkey

Well-known member
Given the number of starter and starter solenoid issues...........I would definitely look at the starter. The other concern is slow crank is often related to high resistance ( poor connections) at the battery cables and any of the connections. All the cables and connections must be check including the grounds!!! Grounds to the battery itself and the cable from the engine to the frame.

Disconnecting the battery while the engine is running is an “old school seat of the pants test” to see if the charging system is functioning .........I would never ever do that “test” on any modern vehicle. The risks and potenial damage is too high.

Slow cranking speed would NOT be glow plug or injector issue. Slow crank will not set a code especially if the cause is a cable, connection, ground or starter problem.
 
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220629

Well-known member
Where is the ground/negative of the jumper cables being clamped to increase the cranking speed? If both the positive and negative jumper clamps are connected to the battery terminals proper, inspect the local battery connections. If the jumper negative is being clamped to engine metal or other, crawl under and inspect any engine related ground(s).

If those inspections don't reveal anything, as already suggested you will need to do some real troubleshooting to narrow down to the problem.

:2cents: vic
 

showkey

Well-known member
Vic has a very good point as jump is improving cranking speed.........so depending on where the jump is connected it a clue to where the problem is.
 

sprint2freedom

2008 NCV3 170ext
Cranks very slow. When jumped it starts.
This sounds like an wiring issue to me.

Have you replaced the ground strap between the engine and the chassis on the driver side? It's uninsulated and corrodes easily.

When starting normally, even with a brand new Y-cable if you have a bad ground connection the starter may be seeing much less than 12 volts, causing it to turn over slowly.. perhaps too slow to start the engine.

When you jump start, depending on where you connect the negative clamp you may be providing a good, low resistance ground path between the jump battery to the starter.. allowing the starter to turn over quickly and start the engine.
 

showkey

Well-known member
This sounds like an wiring issue to me.

When you jump start, depending on where you connect the negative clamp you may be providing a good, low resistance ground path between the jump battery to the starter.. allowing the starter to turn over quickly and start the engine.

The positive jump terminal on the air box if used it would eliminate the battery, battery post and battery cables..........as it is direct short cable to the starter positive terminal.
 

sprint2freedom

2008 NCV3 170ext
The positive jump terminal on the air box if used it would eliminate the battery, battery post and battery cables..........as it is direct short cable to the starter positive terminal.
This is true for the positive battery cables.

However if the negative jumper cable was attached directly to the block, it would provide a low resistance ground path for the starter that might not be present if the ground strap is corroded..

:2cents:
 

edfrompa

2008 ROADTREK on F/L 2500
This is true for the positive battery cables.

However if the negative jumper cable was attached directly to the block, it would provide a low resistance ground path for the starter that might not be present if the ground strap is corroded..

:2cents:
What he said. IMVHO, it is the connection from battery to ground that most often breaks down internally under a heavy (starter) load.
In my dishonest career as a teenage gas station attendant, sold a battery or two (??) and threw in a "free" ground cable. Then I re-sold the used (but good) battery to local farmer for electric fences. The moral depravity of such acts is, of course, beyond forgiving but the $$ appeal to a teen is/was irresistable.
 

PIPELAYR123

New member
Thanks for everyones input. Turned out to be a bad starter. I jumped from voltages at different points and checked all grounds . Once I replaced starter started right up everytime. Now to deal with this oil leak I have
 

220629

Well-known member
Thanks for everyones input. Turned out to be a bad starter. I jumped from voltages at different points and checked all grounds . Once I replaced starter started right up everytime. Now to deal with this oil leak I have
Starter motor proper or another solenoid issue with different symptoms?

You didn't have a "Click no Start", but a relatively inexpensive solenoid replacement may return the removed starter to reliable service for a spare. (Core charges may prohibit that.)

My turn for the dreaded click when starting
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=462783#post462783

vic
 

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