Looking for Air-oil Separator DIY Reseal

My air-oil separator is leaking oil pretty good down the side of my engine. After talking with Dr. A regarding the issue he mentioned it's not uncommon for the separator's mating surface to the engine to become warped (it is plastic after all). As a result it begins to weep oil. He suggested cleaning it with brake parts cleaner and then using a gasket sealer on it to help fill in the warped surface.

Perhaps my thin weight 0w-40 full synthetic oil is no match for it, as it still continues to pour down the side of the engine. Does anyone have any suggestions for my remedy to keep the oil off my engine block?

Maybe try JB Weld or similar? There are plastic specific formulations. I often use Henry yellow roof repair mesh or just window screen material for strength for similar repair (attempts).

vic

Thanks Vic, I may have to give something like that a shot.

The Right Stuff gasket maker is my go to product for this type of thing. Not cheap, but works well. Follow the instructions closely.

The drain may be clogged. Otherwise a new gasket should work




__________________________________________
2006 2500 118 wb standard roof 217,000 fun miles

Midwestdrifter said:

The Right Stuff gasket maker is my go to product for this type of thing. Not cheap, but works well. Follow the instructions closely.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I may try this route if the Permatex Ultra Black doesn't work on its second application.

lightwave said:

The drain may be clogged. Otherwise a new gasket should work

Click to expand...

What's this drain you're referring to?

The A/O separator's gasket, as far as I know, isn't a replaceable item. Are you suggesting the Permatex "Right Stuff" too?

Remove the bolts, clean and then clean some more.clean the oil return passage
in the cylinder head cover,blow out with low pressure air compressor.
The gasket is available from europarts sd. pricey. you could make a gasket with a little imagination.





_________________________________________
2006 2500 118wb standard roof 217,000 fun miles

lightwave said:

Remove the bolts, clean and then clean some more.clean the oil return passage
in the cylinder head cover,blow out with low pressure air compressor.
The gasket is available from europarts sd. pricey. you could make a gasket with a little imagination.

Click to expand...

Because I already reapplied the A/O separator I couldn't blow through the top of the head cover w/o taking the A/O separator off.

So instead I applied suction to the drain line, and there was no resistance to the suction. I then likewise blew low pressure air (no more than a couple pounds of pressure) into the drain line, again, no resistance. There was a subtle gurgle at first upon blowing into the line, but it cleared quickly. Should there be oil residue at the end of the drain line? (mine has none)

I see the gasket is available as you say, thanks http://europarts-sd.com/item.asp?PID=3677

lightwave said:

The drain may be clogged. Otherwise a new gasket should work




__________________________________________
2006 2500 118 wb standard roof 217,000 fun miles

Click to expand...

Can you elaborate on where this drain is and how to properly clean it?

Rusty

There is a gasket for the separator to head seal,
About $65 a pop and it will most likely seal it up!
A common issue!
Dennis

Sharing links to other oil separator pages
I found this page because doug022984 shared some links on another page. They may be helpful so I will share them as well.

If you want to see what the oil separator looks like all taken apart.
- Post #1-3 https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?attachments/85989/

What the oil leak may look like from the separator
- And Possibly causes the oil separator leaking.
- Post #10 https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/63754/

I just spend 4 days planning and researching how to change the valve cover gasket, which means removing the injectors...

Anyone know the torque spec on this CCV oil separator crankcase breather gasket ? I need to change mine soon and was planning on DIY.

Part # 6460160221

As specified in the service manual. The bolts have metal sleeves, so you won't damage the plastic if you aren't perfect with the torque. The plastic tends to warp some with heat and age. If it still leaks, some silicone gasket maker, used sparingly, and torque in two stages, can work.

The two-stage tightening is key: while the sealant is wet you want to barely mate the two surfaces to shape the gasket - but not so tight that you squeeze all the sealant away from the joint. Once the sealant has cured you tighten the bolts to their specified torque, which compresses both the o-ring and the added layer of sealant.

-dave

Something like this looks like it would work.

Nautamaran said:

The two-stage tightening is key: while the sealant is wet you want to barely mate the two surfaces to shape the gasket - but not so tight that you squeeze all the sealant away from the joint. Once the sealant has cured you tighten the bolts to their specified torque, which compresses both the o-ring and the added layer of sealant.

-dave

Click to expand...

Do you know if you would need to follow these steps if you use "the right stuff" gasket maker?

SprinterLex said:

Do you know if you would need to follow these steps if you use "the right stuff" gasket maker?

Click to expand...

Yeah, I would still do the 2 stage. Though you can read the application details for the sealant in question. The Right Stuff may not require it.